Steering wheel buttons...

[TT Tim]

... I have just restored the steering wheel ot my Cerb' using the Gliptone leather dye kit, all I can say is: Wow! excellent stuff.

But what now lest it down slightly is the buttons, can they be bought from TVR and if so does anyone know rough cost?

Thanks

Tim

[Extra 300 Driver]

Take a look at www.rswww.com that is where TVR get most of their electrical stuff.

[dean_ratpac]

we were trying to find alternatives here.
www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=202179&r=2893386&hm=6974

[TT Tim]

Thanks for that Dean, in fact I've posted a couple of ideas on that thread already.

I have however just bought some new buttons for the stop/start ones, nice shiny zinc alloy ones. Does anyone know how to drop the full 12v to the speck 3v supply needed to illuminate the switches? I assume it's using a resistor but that's about the limit of my electronics.

Tim

PS: After a bit of reasearch, can someone please confirm if I'm correct with the following:

Switch LED needs 2.5V, and 20mA, so using Ohms law (V/I = R) I need a resistor of 470 Ohms to bring the volage down to correct Voltage and Current?

Ta



>> Edited by TT Tim on Friday 20th January 16:11

[dean_ratpac]

TT Tim said:

Thanks for that Dean, in fact I've posted a couple of ideas on that thread already. I have however just bought some new buttons for the stop/start ones, nice shiny zinc alloy ones. Does anyone know how to drop the full 12v to the speck 3v supply needed to illuminate the switches?

re the drop to 3v, you can get those resistors on ebay. but like you remembering my school days of design tech, i mainly was chatting birds in the class up instead of paying attention to ohms law..
i've had to get resistors with the LED's i've just bought. i will let you know on the problems i encounter this weekend. do you have any pics of the nice new buttons? where did you source from?

Dean

[jon h]

I am making some brushed aluminium effect ones for myself at the moment. They are done in the same way as the 45mm diameter PH badges Ted is advertising in the PH shop (we make them) I am not sure how well they will work, but if successful, I will be able to supply sets at a sensible price. They are not replacements, but stick over the existing black plastic face.

I am also doing a set of Red rose badges (2 side badges and a rear), a project I started ages ago. 20 sets of these will be ready in about a week, as there were a few people after these when the idea was first floated.

Jon H

[TT Tim]

Hi Dean, yes please do let me know how you get on over the weekend!

I have bought two types of button to see what I prefer, or in fact if they'll fit!

1st: Illuminated, red and green:



2nd: With lables, illuminated in red, with start and off:



I've ordered them from RS

Tim

[cerby6pot]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram/schematic of the connections on the ribbon cable? I would like to backlight the buttons (and replace them with some that work!) but I assume there is no sensible power to the ribbon connector?

[dean_ratpac]

jon h said:

I am also doing a set of Red rose badges (2 side badges and a rear), a project I started ages ago. 20 sets of these will be ready in about a week, as there were a few people after these when the idea was first floated. Jon H

oooh got to see a pic of the RR badge... send me a pic.. if i like i'm having one! (if there's a set spare)

>> Edited by dean_ratpac on Friday 20th January 17:34

[robertjp]

TT Tim said:

Hi Dean, yes please do let me know how you get on over the weekend! I have bought two types of button to see what I prefer, or in fact if they'll fit! 1st: Illuminated, red and green: 2nd: With lables, illuminated in red, with start and off: I've ordered them from RS Tim

Buttons look great, i had a look at RS, but didnt see those? Got part No.s?

Please let us know how you get on. Regarding the resistors, that looks right, but i can check at work on Monday - it isnt my strong point either! Can you strip the buttons and replace with LED's of you choice? Might be easier to replace with 12V LED's (and a colour of choice), that way they simply pull the current thay need...i think?!

Were you intending to put graphics on?

[Jonnie B]

If its any use in the parts manual it seems you can get new labels for the buttons.

washer's NO139 & NO140
horn NO137
main beam NO138
heated rear window NO152
AC NO151

[robertjp]

Jonnie B said:

If its any use in the parts manual it seems you can get new labels for the buttons. washer's NO139 & NO140 horn NO137 main beam NO138 heated rear window NO152 AC NO151

Thanks i actually hadn't realised the buttons were in the parts manuals , but i wanted the RS part No's really

[alinton]

You're right on your Ohm's law calc. Comes out at 450R, nearest value is 470R so that's the one to use. The extra resistance will actually take into account that the circuit is probably supplied with more than 12v, prob 13.5 ish. Little quarter-watt resistors will do.
If the indicators are LEDs (which they are) then they won't mind if you give them a bit more voltage than they're rated at.
But beware of changing the LED colours, as different colours and intensities draw different currents.
I'm toying with the idea of changing the dial illumination from lamps to white LEDs, as they won't blow.
Trouble might be that the light from an LED generally is more visible from the front, so they might not light up the dials enough.

[TT Tim]

Sod's law, buttons have turned up but I've just dropped the car off at APM, so I'll have to wait until I get it back, but I do think I've found a perfect replacement for the door buttons and central locking button. Even illuminated in the same green LED!

Tim

[chrismoore]

TT Tim said:

Thanks for that Dean, in fact I've posted a couple of ideas on that thread already. I have however just bought some new buttons for the stop/start ones, nice shiny zinc alloy ones. Does anyone know how to drop the full 12v to the speck 3v supply needed to illuminate the switches? I assume it's using a resistor but that's about the limit of my electronics. Tim PS: After a bit of reasearch, can someone please confirm if I'm correct with the following: Switch LED needs 2.5V, and 20mA, so using Ohms law (V/I = R) I need a resistor of 470 Ohms to bring the volage down to correct Voltage and Current? Ta >> Edited by TT Tim on Friday 20th January 16:11

[chrismoore]

Your calcs are right but don't forget P=IV so voltage drop of 10V and 20mA current you will need a power capacity value of 200mW.

TT Tim said:

Thanks for that Dean, in fact I've posted a couple of ideas on that thread already. I have however just bought some new buttons for the stop/start ones, nice shiny zinc alloy ones. Does anyone know how to drop the full 12v to the speck 3v supply needed to illuminate the switches? I assume it's using a resistor but that's about the limit of my electronics. Tim PS: After a bit of reasearch, can someone please confirm if I'm correct with the following: Switch LED needs 2.5V, and 20mA, so using Ohms law (V/I = R) I need a resistor of 470 Ohms to bring the volage down to correct Voltage and Current? Ta >> Edited by TT Tim on Friday 20th January 16:11

[Cooky]

Bump

did anything become of this?

[Tanguero]

If it helps...

Window & steering wheel switches

RS Components
Part number 301-5235

[drew.h]

chrismoore said:

Your calcs are right but don't forget P=IV so voltage drop of 10V and 20mA current you will need a power capacity value of 200mW.

TT Tim said:

Thanks for that Dean, in fact I've posted a couple of ideas on that thread already.

I have however just bought some new buttons for the stop/start ones, nice shiny zinc alloy ones. Does anyone know how to drop the full 12v to the speck 3v supply needed to illuminate the switches? I assume it's using a resistor but that's about the limit of my electronics.

Tim

PS: After a bit of reasearch, can someone please confirm if I'm correct with the following:

Switch LED needs 2.5V, and 20mA, so using Ohms law (V/I = R) I need a resistor of 470 Ohms to bring the volage down to correct Voltage and Current?

Ta



>> Edited by TT Tim on Friday 20th January 16:11

Use a 560ohm, potential in a car can get to 14v. I never use resistors with LED on cars any more, to many burnt out LEDs. I'd use a LM317 as a current source. Wattage needed for a resistor is I²R, so 0.224 watt on a 560ohm.

[TT Tim]

drew.h said:

chrismoore said:

Your calcs are right but don't forget P=IV so voltage drop of 10V and 20mA current you will need a power capacity value of 200mW.

TT Tim said:

Thanks for that Dean, in fact I've posted a couple of ideas on that thread already.

I have however just bought some new buttons for the stop/start ones, nice shiny zinc alloy ones. Does anyone know how to drop the full 12v to the speck 3v supply needed to illuminate the switches? I assume it's using a resistor but that's about the limit of my electronics.

Tim

PS: After a bit of reasearch, can someone please confirm if I'm correct with the following:

Switch LED needs 2.5V, and 20mA, so using Ohms law (V/I = R) I need a resistor of 470 Ohms to bring the volage down to correct Voltage and Current?

Ta



>> Edited by TT Tim on Friday 20th January 16:11

Use a 560ohm, potential in a car can get to 14v. I never use resistors with LED on cars any more, to many burnt out LEDs. I'd use a LM317 as a current source. Wattage needed for a resistor is I²R, so 0.224 watt on a 560ohm.

I still have all teh buttons in my desk drawer.

I ended up working on many other bits of the car that needed work rather that tarting up bits that worked.

However, having said that, it would be good to get this done.

Drew, I'm an idiot with electrics, so can you give me links to bits and a diag' of what I need to do to fit these buttons - please.

Many thanks.

Tim