Fuel tank gauge
Discussion
Did this over the weekend, looking for a problem which made my gauge read half a tank at the time the car quit on me.
Remove the velcroed carpet around the fueal tank. Beware no nuts are captured here. Remove the various electrical units and if you are feeling brave put electrical cleaner of the contacts and noticed the brun marks all over the headlight unit connector
.
The sender on the tank is fed two wires which form the sense resistance to the fuel gauge.
The sender will not come out of the tank unless the tank is moved. For this the pod between the rear seats needs to come out with a winged nut above the CD player.
Once out the fuel tank is on two straps both with nuts behind the pod. Beware that the nut on the drivers side is an earth connector, and to avoid alarm problems you need to clamp all these leads removed from the nut together.
Next is to remove the fuel filler cap and stem which is a tight PITA job and then the tank will pull back allowing the sender to be removed.
The fuel gauge itself in the front binnacle is removed by removing the air hose from the crotch cooler, and then unscrewing two large plastic nuts with your fingers behind the dial. This releases a metal bracing strap and the dial can then be removed forward removing the three wires from the gauge spade terminals.
The gauge is fed a 12+V green, Grnd 0V black, and a sense wire Grn/blk. Sense wire is 12V for full and 0V for empty.
My problem turned out to be the sender wire. In true haynes style refitting is the reverse of removal
Remove the velcroed carpet around the fueal tank. Beware no nuts are captured here. Remove the various electrical units and if you are feeling brave put electrical cleaner of the contacts and noticed the brun marks all over the headlight unit connector
. The sender on the tank is fed two wires which form the sense resistance to the fuel gauge.
The sender will not come out of the tank unless the tank is moved. For this the pod between the rear seats needs to come out with a winged nut above the CD player.
Once out the fuel tank is on two straps both with nuts behind the pod. Beware that the nut on the drivers side is an earth connector, and to avoid alarm problems you need to clamp all these leads removed from the nut together.
Next is to remove the fuel filler cap and stem which is a tight PITA job and then the tank will pull back allowing the sender to be removed.
The fuel gauge itself in the front binnacle is removed by removing the air hose from the crotch cooler, and then unscrewing two large plastic nuts with your fingers behind the dial. This releases a metal bracing strap and the dial can then be removed forward removing the three wires from the gauge spade terminals.
The gauge is fed a 12+V green, Grnd 0V black, and a sense wire Grn/blk. Sense wire is 12V for full and 0V for empty.
My problem turned out to be the sender wire. In true haynes style refitting is the reverse of removal
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