Spiders and front steering lock spacers
Discussion
Anyone know how to fit the little plastic rings that stop the full lock with spiders fitted?
I am probably being really thick but I Cant see where they are fitted on the rack ? I assumed they fitted somewhere near the hubs and that they just slip on?!!?
Anyone know exactly?
thanks
Gary
I am probably being really thick but I Cant see where they are fitted on the rack ? I assumed they fitted somewhere near the hubs and that they just slip on?!!?
Anyone know exactly?
thanks
Gary
You'll need to get under the car!!!...lol
Cut away one of the cable ties that hold one of the steering rack gators in place, and slide the gator to one side. The nylon spacer that you have will have a cut in it to allow you to 'open'the spacer.
This needs then to be opened up and slid over the steering rack arm next the ball joint that the gator was covering...and IIRC the spacer is 'dished/concave' on one side to allow a better mating with the ball joint, so you'll need to put the spacer the 'right' way round.
The job of the spacer is to restrict the lateral movement of the steering arm, so if I havent made sense with the above, it will become obvious when you are physically doing it!
You'll then need to pull the gator back over the end of the arm and refix with a new tie...some cars have a metal crimp type of thing to hold the gator in place, but mine had a cable tie....then repeat for the other side!
Best of luck...cos if you are like me, and have fingers like pork sausages then it becomes a little tricky, espcially with the steering rack grease to contend with....but all said and done should take no longer than 30 mins...inc getting jack and axle stands out!
Cut away one of the cable ties that hold one of the steering rack gators in place, and slide the gator to one side. The nylon spacer that you have will have a cut in it to allow you to 'open'the spacer.
This needs then to be opened up and slid over the steering rack arm next the ball joint that the gator was covering...and IIRC the spacer is 'dished/concave' on one side to allow a better mating with the ball joint, so you'll need to put the spacer the 'right' way round.
The job of the spacer is to restrict the lateral movement of the steering arm, so if I havent made sense with the above, it will become obvious when you are physically doing it!
You'll then need to pull the gator back over the end of the arm and refix with a new tie...some cars have a metal crimp type of thing to hold the gator in place, but mine had a cable tie....then repeat for the other side!
Best of luck...cos if you are like me, and have fingers like pork sausages then it becomes a little tricky, espcially with the steering rack grease to contend with....but all said and done should take no longer than 30 mins...inc getting jack and axle stands out!
Done it (With help from a friend who works for McLaren (and Ferrari F1 from next month) AND he has a large garage with lights).
Wasnt quite as easy as it should be.
I would recommend that you start with drivers side - easier access to rack etc.
Jack up, remove wheel, support with axle stand.
Undo the clamp at the fat end of the gaiter. Mine were metal screw tight clamps. All rusted up and difficult to access (impossible on passenger side). I managed to loosen off the drivers side one a bit and then snip it off. On the passenger side you cant get a screw driver to the screw. So I had to push the gaiter out under the clamp and then lever and snip).
Pull the gaiter towards you/the hub. Watch out for grease from the rack in your eyes. Put the lock stop on the steering rack - quite tricky to get it on - turn steering to make access easier and wipe some grease off. The concave bit faces towards the hub on the rack side of the nuckle joint. Watch out for it nipping your fingers and drawing blood. Pull gaiter back in place and then fit a cable tie.
Replace wheel!
Repeat on the harder passenger side.
All in I reckon it takes an hour tops. If you are doing on a 4 post then maybe 1/2 hr tops.
I was also able to refit the bit of metal in the passenger wheel arch that covers some lx and pipes.
So in last 2 weeks have - fitted battery, hacksawed off the rear half shaft ends so that they are flush with the large nut (to fit rear spiders centre caps) and now fitted front stops and the metal guard.
Now ready for clutches , starters and engine rebuilds.
Wasnt quite as easy as it should be.
I would recommend that you start with drivers side - easier access to rack etc.
Jack up, remove wheel, support with axle stand.
Undo the clamp at the fat end of the gaiter. Mine were metal screw tight clamps. All rusted up and difficult to access (impossible on passenger side). I managed to loosen off the drivers side one a bit and then snip it off. On the passenger side you cant get a screw driver to the screw. So I had to push the gaiter out under the clamp and then lever and snip).
Pull the gaiter towards you/the hub. Watch out for grease from the rack in your eyes. Put the lock stop on the steering rack - quite tricky to get it on - turn steering to make access easier and wipe some grease off. The concave bit faces towards the hub on the rack side of the nuckle joint. Watch out for it nipping your fingers and drawing blood. Pull gaiter back in place and then fit a cable tie.
Replace wheel!
Repeat on the harder passenger side.
All in I reckon it takes an hour tops. If you are doing on a 4 post then maybe 1/2 hr tops.
I was also able to refit the bit of metal in the passenger wheel arch that covers some lx and pipes.
So in last 2 weeks have - fitted battery, hacksawed off the rear half shaft ends so that they are flush with the large nut (to fit rear spiders centre caps) and now fitted front stops and the metal guard.
Now ready for clutches , starters and engine rebuilds.
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