Post slave cylinder replacement problems
Discussion
Hi everyone
I replaced the clutch slave cylinder this week and everything seemed to go back together OK but the car won't go into gear!
Here's the story
1. Purchased car, clutch OK.
2. Three weeks later clutch pedal went to floor, fluid all over road.
3. Bled clutch to move car, bled OK but cannot engage gears. Start car in gear with foot hard down and just about OK. Gear changing on the move OK. Fluid still leaking so assumed not enough pressure to separate clutch.
4. Replaced slave cylinder. Bled OK, holes at top and bottom (thanks Trackcar!). Doesn't seem to be leaking. Still cannot engage gears. Fingers all intact on pressure plate and slave cylinder appears to move correctly when viewed in action with the gearbox off.
The clutch was new last year. Has done less than 2000miles according to the MOTs. The previous owner told me that Austec fitted the clutch and a new slave cylinder (and master)using the original 4.2 bellhousing but with the threaded rod adjusted so that with the pedal on the floor, the clutch was just disengaged so as not to risk overstressing the fingers.
The last thing is that as the gearbox warms up you can just about get it in gear with the clutch fully depressed.
Needless to say I am not driving the car but it would be nice if anyone had any thoughts on this.
Cheers
Ed
P.S. Lets just say that the missus is not impressed.
I replaced the clutch slave cylinder this week and everything seemed to go back together OK but the car won't go into gear!
Here's the story
1. Purchased car, clutch OK.
2. Three weeks later clutch pedal went to floor, fluid all over road.
3. Bled clutch to move car, bled OK but cannot engage gears. Start car in gear with foot hard down and just about OK. Gear changing on the move OK. Fluid still leaking so assumed not enough pressure to separate clutch.
4. Replaced slave cylinder. Bled OK, holes at top and bottom (thanks Trackcar!). Doesn't seem to be leaking. Still cannot engage gears. Fingers all intact on pressure plate and slave cylinder appears to move correctly when viewed in action with the gearbox off.
The clutch was new last year. Has done less than 2000miles according to the MOTs. The previous owner told me that Austec fitted the clutch and a new slave cylinder (and master)using the original 4.2 bellhousing but with the threaded rod adjusted so that with the pedal on the floor, the clutch was just disengaged so as not to risk overstressing the fingers.
The last thing is that as the gearbox warms up you can just about get it in gear with the clutch fully depressed.
Needless to say I am not driving the car but it would be nice if anyone had any thoughts on this.
Cheers
Ed
P.S. Lets just say that the missus is not impressed.
Julian64 said:
I would suggest with what you have said taking a close look at how you bled the slave. Bleeding clutches brakes, is one of those things I always leave to the summer because its mightily difficult to do in winter.
I suggest air in the system to be the most likely cause.
I would suggest a pressure bleeder, but I couldnt get the cap to seal.
I had this problem on my first clutch out saga, but the second went much better.
Extra 300 Driver said:
I would suggest with what you have said taking a close look at how you bled the slave. Bleeding clutches brakes, is one of those things I always leave to the summer because its mightily difficult to do in winter.
I suggest air in the system to be the most likely cause.
I would suggest a pressure bleeder, but I couldnt get the cap to seal.
I had this problem on my first clutch out saga, but the second went much better.
An eezebleed will work fine, if you put 2 seals in the cap !
Extra 300 Driver said:
Yes, an ezibleed is the dogs danglies but don't use too much pressure otherwise you will blow the top off and spray your front end with clutch fluid!!! You have been warned!!!
Story behind that, me thinks!
I use a hozelock garden sprayer
. Works a treat for non ABS systems. Although I do worry if trackcar says its no problem. Obviously the up down design of the pipes is pretty good on a Cerb, no natural airlocks obviously.This is how I bled it.
1. Top up master cylinder
2. Attach non return valve pipe to bleed pipe and put in jam jar.
3. Open bleed nipple.
4. Have assistant slowly pump pedal until no bubbles appear in non-return valve pipe.
5. Ensure master cylinder does not run dry!
6. When no bubbles remain have assistant hold pedal down and tighten bleed nipple.
I am reasonable happy that the there was no air in the pipe but it occurs to me that I had to disconnect the clear pipe to the jam jar to do up the bleed nipple which may have allowed some air to enter the system.
I will get hold of a 1/4inch spanner so there can be no chance of this and try again.
The pedal feels like there is no resistance for a fraction of the movement as the rod makes contact with the piston in the master cylinder. Then there is a distance of easy movement maybe as the slave cylinder moves to meet the fingers. Then the rest is heavy resistance maybe as the clutch is depressed. I would say that there is more light resistance than heavy.
I will give it another go and maybe try adjusting the rod.
I'm getting there
Cheers
Ed
1. Top up master cylinder
2. Attach non return valve pipe to bleed pipe and put in jam jar.
3. Open bleed nipple.
4. Have assistant slowly pump pedal until no bubbles appear in non-return valve pipe.
5. Ensure master cylinder does not run dry!
6. When no bubbles remain have assistant hold pedal down and tighten bleed nipple.
I am reasonable happy that the there was no air in the pipe but it occurs to me that I had to disconnect the clear pipe to the jam jar to do up the bleed nipple which may have allowed some air to enter the system.
I will get hold of a 1/4inch spanner so there can be no chance of this and try again.
The pedal feels like there is no resistance for a fraction of the movement as the rod makes contact with the piston in the master cylinder. Then there is a distance of easy movement maybe as the slave cylinder moves to meet the fingers. Then the rest is heavy resistance maybe as the clutch is depressed. I would say that there is more light resistance than heavy.
I will give it another go and maybe try adjusting the rod.
I'm getting there
Cheers
Ed
A better technique for bleeding with two people is to get your helpful assistant to pump the pedal several times and hold it down, THEN open the bleed nipple ( with bleed hose attached etc) then close the nipple as the flow slows down and repeat
Tends to stop any aerated fluid being drawn back into the system, its also worth wrapping a bit of PTFE tape around the bleed nipple threads to prevent any air being drawn down the threads.
Matt
Tends to stop any aerated fluid being drawn back into the system, its also worth wrapping a bit of PTFE tape around the bleed nipple threads to prevent any air being drawn down the threads.
Matt
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