Clutch ? in stop start traffic.
Discussion
Do the clutchs on Cerberas loose there tendancy to operate properly in start, stop traffic? Ive been out in the car today and for quite a while iwas sitting in a lot of start, stop traffic.I noticed that as the car was getting hotter it was sometimes getting difficult to select gears smoothly.At the end of my drive i pulled in to the garage.i needed to put the car in reverse but got no drive.clutch still felt ok.I then switched off restarted got drive and parked up.I left the car for about three hours to cool off went for another drive and everything was ok again.Is this something particular to the Cerbera or should i be looking elsewhere?
>> Edited by BLUETHUNDER on Saturday 1st April 20:23
>> Edited by BLUETHUNDER on Saturday 1st April 20:23
youve got it too!
happened to me a month or so ago I was stuck on the M23 for over an hour creeping along on the clutch for it to almost have no bite at all.
I pulled over phoned Paul at Austec( Id just been there)he told me I was the second one that week and he puts it down to overheating the linings and they become polished/glazed .mine was OK after a while but the next time it got properly hot it slipped a bit though I did the SRR shootout like it and that was OK.
Ive now done about 300 miles and it seems OK but it does worry me a bit have to wait for another traffic jam to see what happens I might change it though as Im going the the Lemans Classic in it (fingers crossed)
rgds Peter
happened to me a month or so ago I was stuck on the M23 for over an hour creeping along on the clutch for it to almost have no bite at all.
I pulled over phoned Paul at Austec( Id just been there)he told me I was the second one that week and he puts it down to overheating the linings and they become polished/glazed .mine was OK after a while but the next time it got properly hot it slipped a bit though I did the SRR shootout like it and that was OK.
Ive now done about 300 miles and it seems OK but it does worry me a bit have to wait for another traffic jam to see what happens I might change it though as Im going the the Lemans Classic in it (fingers crossed)
rgds Peter
Bluethunder, try this link as it may help you.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=227862&r=2799120&hm=23016#2799120
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=227862&r=2799120&hm=23016#2799120
Green V8S ive got no oil leaks ive checked,And Kev63 ive checked out that topic but unlike Gazzab,s case i dont suffer any clutch judder the clutch under normal operating conditions i.e not sitting in to much traffic or getting hot operates o.k.The only thing i have noticed is i have about 1/2inch of free play in the top of the peddal.But if i gently tap the peddal 3 or 4 times then the play goes.?
Thinking about this a bit more, I think you probably have the clutch equivalent of binding brakes.
There is a failure mode on hydraulic brakes, where the master cylinder doesn't open the port to the reservoir when you take the foot off the brakes. There are several ways that this can happen, and it can happen for several different types of master cylinder. The consequence is that the hydraulic circuit remains sealed, and if/when the fluid heats up and expands it can build up and hold pressure. On the braking system this means that the brakes start to drag and this gets worse and worse until they seize on. On the clutch it would mean that the clutch doesn't engage fully, as if you were riding the clutch pedal.
The problem can be caused by wear and dirt inside the master cylinder, but it can also be caused by adjusting the pushrod at the master cylinder too far so that there is insufficient slack. If this is happening to you then something worth trying is to push the clutch pedal to the floor, and then sidestep the pedal. The same works on the brakes.
There is a failure mode on hydraulic brakes, where the master cylinder doesn't open the port to the reservoir when you take the foot off the brakes. There are several ways that this can happen, and it can happen for several different types of master cylinder. The consequence is that the hydraulic circuit remains sealed, and if/when the fluid heats up and expands it can build up and hold pressure. On the braking system this means that the brakes start to drag and this gets worse and worse until they seize on. On the clutch it would mean that the clutch doesn't engage fully, as if you were riding the clutch pedal.
The problem can be caused by wear and dirt inside the master cylinder, but it can also be caused by adjusting the pushrod at the master cylinder too far so that there is insufficient slack. If this is happening to you then something worth trying is to push the clutch pedal to the floor, and then sidestep the pedal. The same works on the brakes.
Push the pedal to the floor and then slide your foot off the pedal sideways so that the pedal comes back up sharply. In neutral obvious, you don't need any revs on and it will work fine with the engine switched off (although there's no particular need to switch off, if you are in neutral at low revs).
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