Clutch alignment tool???
Discussion
Hi simon - thats a good idea but I think I'd struggle to get the splines right!!Suppose I could remove the bellhousing and mate the gearbox up to the engine, and then tighten the bolts that way...... Would need to make sure the alignment was right thou... I remember there was a second hand Cerbera clutch that was up on ebay a week or so ago, and the ad said that a gearbox input shaft was included to aid fitment - don't suppose the buyer is on here by any chance???
Or how about a GRP resin moulding!?!? Never done that before, but GRP would be strong enough surely? Dab on some release agent, smear some gel coat resin around the shaft, remove once hard and then make a copy using a similar method??? There is a picture of exactly what I need, but its for a mitsubishi 3000GT!!! www.amber-performance.co.uk/shop.p
Speak to these people. [url] www.gearboxman.co.uk/contact.html [/url]
When I was doing my slave cylinder they said that they would have an old input shaft lying around that I could have. I didn't get it in the end but I'm sure they could send you one.
Cheers
Ed
When I was doing my slave cylinder they said that they would have an old input shaft lying around that I could have. I didn't get it in the end but I'm sure they could send you one.
Cheers
Ed
Yes but its the twin plate thats the issue, as once the clutch is screwed down, if the splines on each plate are not exactly in line, the gearbox won't mate up. I think I'll manage it be removing the bell housing and mating up the box to the clutch that way - I've just tried it but couldn't remove the bell housing without a 10mm allen key - a normal hex won't do, as there isn't enough clearance against the gearbox casing. Guess it'll have to wait till next weekend!! I've looked in the engine rebuild manual, and the 'clutch alignment tool' is blatantly a T5 input shaft!!! Thanks for the ideas guys!!
I bought an alignment tool off ebay a short while ago, quite cheap it was too. But I cant remember where from.
When i did use it after aligning the plates up, I still managed to knock them out of line when putting the box back.
What I found works well, (assuming you've not drained the clutch fluid) is to align the plates up as best as you can, tighten clutch and fit bellhousing. Offer up the g.box and then get someone to put their foot on the clutch pedal, thus allowing the plates to move free and slide onto the input shaft.
Slides in like a slippery thing on a slippery slope.
When i did use it after aligning the plates up, I still managed to knock them out of line when putting the box back.
What I found works well, (assuming you've not drained the clutch fluid) is to align the plates up as best as you can, tighten clutch and fit bellhousing. Offer up the g.box and then get someone to put their foot on the clutch pedal, thus allowing the plates to move free and slide onto the input shaft.
Slides in like a slippery thing on a slippery slope.

longbow said:
Yes but its the twin plate thats the issue, as once the clutch is screwed down, if the splines on each plate are not exactly in line, the gearbox won't mate up. I think I'll manage it be removing the bell housing and mating up the box to the clutch that way - I've just tried it but couldn't remove the bell housing without a 10mm allen key - a normal hex won't do, as there isn't enough clearance against the gearbox casing. Guess it'll have to wait till next weekend!! I've looked in the engine rebuild manual, and the 'clutch alignment tool' is blatantly a T5 input shaft!!! Thanks for the ideas guys!!
Good point forgot about that.

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