Discussion
Speculative theory - master cylinder getting more heat from the engine when sat in traffic than when on the move. That would cause expansion and if the seals were marginal might give rise to the behaviour you stated. Best to get it sorted pronto. I'd be interested to hear what the problem transpires to be.
Steve.
Steve.
nickp1971 said:
hi great brakes but seem to fade pedal goes all way down sat in tarffic any idea,s
Had similar whilst following Seve T back from Le Mans. Diagnosed as seals and replaced pronto by Austec
No problems since
The spongy clutch feel I got on the way home tonight is another matter.
Paul thinks it may just need a bleed? Finger's crossed 
Steve_T said:
Glazed through excess heat Gary?
Yes - I put brand new disks and pads on (tuscan drilled though as that was all I could get with 12 hrs notice) - they were then given a lot of abuse and within a 100 miles of driving went all wooden and rubbish. So had to stick my foot out the door to slow down.
When the master cylinder went on mine, the pedal would slowly travel all the way down and I'd have to pump the pedal again. When stopped and you presses the pedal you could feel the seals had gone.
I checked the cylinders on the brake discs first for leaks - the easy bit. They were fine.
I rang H Gormmers and they had just changed one. It took them 14hrs! The procedure was to remove
1. Drivers Seat
2. Steering Column / Air pipes. Steering column held in at foot wall by ring over bearing wing 3 screws on inside of footwell. Disconnect steering CV joint.
3. Remove two bolts inside front wheel arch by steering wheel universal joint
4. Remove 3 bolts from on top of the foot well by the clutch res cover. One bolt is hidden under window screen wiper bottom cover
5. Disconnect brake and fluid lines from inside wheel arch. Don't disconnect in footwell yet.
6. Disconnect brake and clutch lines in driver's foot well at small junction block. Need plenty of paper towls, but most should have drained from outside first. Don't forget to remove all carpets and sound proofing from foot well.
7. Cut silcon around brake fluid reservoir from top of wing.
8. Remove accelerator cable from pedal / Airline to brake assist
9.Pull out pedal box - watch for fluid.
10. Unbolt master cylinder from brake assist (just can't think of the correct term)
11.Carefully pull of reservoir from master cylinder.
12. Remove copper brake lines.
Refit is reserse of above.
Note - I had a real problem getting one of the brake lines nut threads to catch back into the connection block. The easiest way if they don't catch is the using a pair of mole grips to grip the underside of the block and the top lip of the nut and apply gently compression as you use a spanner to tighten.
At the end of it, a thought 14 hrs was about right.
The guy at SFR in Stockport , thought it could be done without removing the pedal box etc. I don't belive so, as you can't reach the two bolts which hold on the master cylinder, remove the reserviour are reach the brake lines. That's unless you've got magic hands!
I'll post photo's later, as I'll have to resize them for the web.
Cheers
John
I checked the cylinders on the brake discs first for leaks - the easy bit. They were fine.
I rang H Gormmers and they had just changed one. It took them 14hrs! The procedure was to remove
1. Drivers Seat
2. Steering Column / Air pipes. Steering column held in at foot wall by ring over bearing wing 3 screws on inside of footwell. Disconnect steering CV joint.
3. Remove two bolts inside front wheel arch by steering wheel universal joint
4. Remove 3 bolts from on top of the foot well by the clutch res cover. One bolt is hidden under window screen wiper bottom cover
5. Disconnect brake and fluid lines from inside wheel arch. Don't disconnect in footwell yet.
6. Disconnect brake and clutch lines in driver's foot well at small junction block. Need plenty of paper towls, but most should have drained from outside first. Don't forget to remove all carpets and sound proofing from foot well.
7. Cut silcon around brake fluid reservoir from top of wing.
8. Remove accelerator cable from pedal / Airline to brake assist
9.Pull out pedal box - watch for fluid.
10. Unbolt master cylinder from brake assist (just can't think of the correct term)
11.Carefully pull of reservoir from master cylinder.
12. Remove copper brake lines.
Refit is reserse of above.
Note - I had a real problem getting one of the brake lines nut threads to catch back into the connection block. The easiest way if they don't catch is the using a pair of mole grips to grip the underside of the block and the top lip of the nut and apply gently compression as you use a spanner to tighten.
At the end of it, a thought 14 hrs was about right.
The guy at SFR in Stockport , thought it could be done without removing the pedal box etc. I don't belive so, as you can't reach the two bolts which hold on the master cylinder, remove the reserviour are reach the brake lines. That's unless you've got magic hands!
I'll post photo's later, as I'll have to resize them for the web.
Cheers
John
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