Non opening drivers door window.
Discussion
I refer to earlier postings and thank all those who provided useful assistance and advise.
I have removed door panels without a hitch and replaced them just as easily. Unfortunately despite cleaning, tweaking and cursing at the "switch" the window still does not open when opening the door - nor closes when closing the door.
I tried again the chinese reset to no avail either. (By the way do you unplug all four connectors or just the power one?)
Does this mean a new switch or is it possibly something else? If its a switch wheres the best place to get one? Are there variations or just one type of switch?
All help greatly apprciated.
I have removed door panels without a hitch and replaced them just as easily. Unfortunately despite cleaning, tweaking and cursing at the "switch" the window still does not open when opening the door - nor closes when closing the door.
I tried again the chinese reset to no avail either. (By the way do you unplug all four connectors or just the power one?)
Does this mean a new switch or is it possibly something else? If its a switch wheres the best place to get one? Are there variations or just one type of switch?
All help greatly apprciated.
Well, its all kinda done by one black box, you press the open button, the black box drops the window until the limit switch says stop, then the black box fires the solenoid to open the door, there is a reed switch in the door pillar to tell the black box the door is open so it keeps the window down, then finally you shut the door, the reed switch says the door is closed, the black box puts the window back up again.
So if the window dosent drop then the limit swich may be telling the black box that it is dropped when it isnt, or the reed swich may be saying the door is open when it isnt. The only way to check for sure is to find out what pins do what on the black box connector and meter the switches @ the black box to see if they are doing what they should be. ie continuity test on the reed swich, make sure that opening and closes the door makes a difference and the same with the limit swich. If they test ok and the supply + earth are ok for the black box then it must be the black box.
If you do wish to meter the connectors then i have got a diagram here someware, let me know and ill dig it out.
So if the window dosent drop then the limit swich may be telling the black box that it is dropped when it isnt, or the reed swich may be saying the door is open when it isnt. The only way to check for sure is to find out what pins do what on the black box connector and meter the switches @ the black box to see if they are doing what they should be. ie continuity test on the reed swich, make sure that opening and closes the door makes a difference and the same with the limit swich. If they test ok and the supply + earth are ok for the black box then it must be the black box.
If you do wish to meter the connectors then i have got a diagram here someware, let me know and ill dig it out.
Hello Bob, I have missed all of your previous threads and questions but have you tried fiddling with the proximity switch in the bottom of the door? If it is not set correctly then it will not tell the box that the door is closed and therefore the window will not move. The bit in the bottom of the door is threaded so you can adjust it to be closer to the other element in the body (I think it is magnetic).
Sorry if this is just a repeat of what you have been already told.
Sorry if this is just a repeat of what you have been already told.
BobK said:
Flashheart,
Thanks for the advice but where is the proximity switch? I have become quite familiar with the inside of my car doors this weekend but cannot remember seeing a switch at the bottom anywhere. Further advice please if possible or better still a picture?
Here's hoping.
BobK
Thanks for the advice but where is the proximity switch? I have become quite familiar with the inside of my car doors this weekend but cannot remember seeing a switch at the bottom anywhere. Further advice please if possible or better still a picture?
Here's hoping.
BobK
On the bottom of the door there should be a metal prong, and a metal disc on the corresponding place of the door frame on the car.
The metal disc might just need a good clean!
Hello again Bob, sorry I missed your posts yesterday - busy day. At the bottom of the door, below the door card and set into the fibreglass is a little metal screwthread. It is towards the rear of the door. There will be a metal 'open washer' behind it with 2 screws holding it in place. This is adjacent to a magnet glued to the inside of the body (which you cannot see). If you loosen the screws you can slide the washer out of the way and screw the thread in or out to make it closer or further away from the magnet. This is what tells the control box the door is either open or closed. The doors shift with time and it may be out of alignment so all you need to do is, probably, adjust the screwthread so it sticks out slightly further than it did before. Too far and it will bash the body so try it a bit at a time. OR it may be the magnet, which may have departed company so you will need a new one. If you type in 'magnetic door switch' into the search function above you will find loads of threads about this very topic.
TADTS
Enjoy
TADTS
Enjoy
Hi Gary,
when you will travel to Germany with you TVR and you pass near Hannover/Braunschweig I would be pleased about a visit from you. I own a garage specialised on british sports cars, especially TVR. We have TVR M/cosworth turbo, Griffith, Cerbera, Sagaris (two of them with ABS and traction control)(www.bornemann-bs.de). If you are interested give me information.
Cheers
Joachim Kleppe
when you will travel to Germany with you TVR and you pass near Hannover/Braunschweig I would be pleased about a visit from you. I own a garage specialised on british sports cars, especially TVR. We have TVR M/cosworth turbo, Griffith, Cerbera, Sagaris (two of them with ABS and traction control)(www.bornemann-bs.de). If you are interested give me information.
Cheers
Joachim Kleppe
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