Discussion
g-boy said:
dont know of the part number but i think the fuel is under a bit of pressure in the pipe, so it can be quite tricky to do. you dont want petrol all over the engine. my griff petrol pipe went recently and i took it to a mechanic
Just what i was thinking. Don't want fuel all over the place
I assume you mean the smaller fuel pipes that run to the cooler at the front, as part of your aircon? If so, that is the return line to the tank - the pressure feed goes straight to the main fuel rail body. You should be able to replace a section of this return pipe fairly easily by cutting and inserting a new section - the ends are just push on fit with hose clips. Any fuel leaks are potentially lethal though, so don't drive it as it is!!
Saw this post some time ago, wouldnt want this to happen to anyone. Be careful with a fuel leak best of luck. (www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.
Its not as scary of a job as you may think, make sure you do it when the engine is cold, put a load of rags underneath were you are going to break the fuel line to catch any spillage and thats about it really, generally fuel needs a very high temp to ignite like a very hot manifold or a spark or ash from a fag etc. so as long as you are careful and dont flood the engine bay with fuel then you will be ok
longbow said:
I assume you mean the smaller fuel pipes that run to the cooler at the front, as part of your aircon? If so, that is the return line to the tank - the pressure feed goes straight to the main fuel rail body. You should be able to replace a section of this return pipe fairly easily by cutting and inserting a new section - the ends are just push on fit with hose clips. Any fuel leaks are potentially lethal though, so don't drive it as it is!!
I think it is those. They come up from beneath, just behind the fans, and then go into the top of the engine. There are two of them pretty close to each other, and there is a hose clip on the one that is leaking, where it looks like 2 pipes have been joined in the fashion you mention. I guess if i took a bit of hose to a car shop they should be able to sort me out.
And don't worry - i shan't be driving her - i too have read some of those rare but nasty horror stories
Had to change my fuel hose a few months ago because it was spraying fuel mist onto the engine. I used standard high pressure hose. I also changed the other hose that travels along the engine & across the bulhead to the screwed & crimped fitting as this was looking ropey too. Not worth taking the risk leaving it. I also fitted some new heat sheild wrap along the pipe as some of the old stuff was cracked & worn.
ijc said:
Had to change my fuel hose a few months ago because it was spraying fuel mist onto the engine. I used standard high pressure hose. I also changed the other hose that travels along the engine & across the bulhead to the screwed & crimped fitting as this was looking ropey too. Not worth taking the risk leaving it. I also fitted some new heat sheild wrap along the pipe as some of the old stuff was cracked & worn.
Where did you get the hose from Ian? And was the fuel under pressure when you took the old tube off?
You can relieve the pressure in the system before you crack the joints.
In the boot on top of the fuel tank on the LHS behind the black boxes of electronics there is a vertical black connector about an inch wide with 2 or 3 wires in it. The lower part of the connector can be unclipped and disconnected. The lower part pulls down out of upper female bit of the connector.
Then try to start the engine 2 or 3 times. It may fire and run but since the fuel pump isn't running it dies immediately so the engine won't get hot.
This relieves a good deal of the pressure in the fuel system but heed all the previous warnings re fuel leakage etc
It will still leak fuel. But hopefully not spray it around the engine bay
In the boot on top of the fuel tank on the LHS behind the black boxes of electronics there is a vertical black connector about an inch wide with 2 or 3 wires in it. The lower part of the connector can be unclipped and disconnected. The lower part pulls down out of upper female bit of the connector.
Then try to start the engine 2 or 3 times. It may fire and run but since the fuel pump isn't running it dies immediately so the engine won't get hot.
This relieves a good deal of the pressure in the fuel system but heed all the previous warnings re fuel leakage etc
It will still leak fuel. But hopefully not spray it around the engine bay
When I removed the fuel pipe there was no pressure, possibly as I had left it over night. About 100ml or so of fuel came out, which I presume was just the fuel within the pipe. The fuel pipe came from Halfords, I just chose the one with the thickest side wall and correct bore. To change the fitting on the end of the hose I had to cut the outer part of the crimp and retain the inner (threaded)part. Just used a jubilee clip to attach the new hose to the inner threaded fitting. The fire retardant hose sleeve can be bought from demon tweeks, can't remeber which sleeve I used but here is the link. www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=GDRFG900-06S
had a chat with my favourite TVR garage today. Should be a straightforward job, with some little pressure in the pipe as long as the engine is cold. Standard 7mm fuel pipe is what is needed, and some basic metal clamps, so providing Halfords have some in, going to have a bash at this at the weekend. Expect some panick stricken posts if things go wrong (or i die of petrol consumption jet fed into my unsuspecting mouth )
)Hi All,
does anyone have any idea where i could get the fitting from the pipe to the bulkhead made up? I would prefer to change the entire pipe while it is off, and have been informed that the fitting which connects the top of the pipe into the engine has to be manufactured at a garage.
Thanks
Greg
does anyone have any idea where i could get the fitting from the pipe to the bulkhead made up? I would prefer to change the entire pipe while it is off, and have been informed that the fitting which connects the top of the pipe into the engine has to be manufactured at a garage.
Thanks
Greg
Cheers Simon,
very helpful. The part i need is on there. In the meantime, i have fixed the pipe without the need for the 'end bit' (technical term ) but i think i shall get a new one with the attachment, as i think the old bit of pipe still there may need changing soon
Greg
Edited to add for future reference - not too much fuel spillage occurred while i did this. do it when the engine is cold, and have a few rags ready and you will be OK - it seems there is no pressure in the pipe, just fuel already in there, and a drop will trickle out when you undo the top connection, but nothing major.
As for tools, all you need is a hacksaw, screwdriver and an adjustable spanner.
Parts - I got some 7.6mm fuel injection pipe from Halfords for £6.99 for 1 metre (more than long enough (you need about half of this) , and it comes with clips too.
very helpful. The part i need is on there. In the meantime, i have fixed the pipe without the need for the 'end bit' (technical term
) but i think i shall get a new one with the attachment, as i think the old bit of pipe still there may need changing soon Greg
Edited to add for future reference - not too much fuel spillage occurred while i did this. do it when the engine is cold, and have a few rags ready and you will be OK - it seems there is no pressure in the pipe, just fuel already in there, and a drop will trickle out when you undo the top connection, but nothing major.
As for tools, all you need is a hacksaw, screwdriver and an adjustable spanner.
Parts - I got some 7.6mm fuel injection pipe from Halfords for £6.99 for 1 metre (more than long enough (you need about half of this) , and it comes with clips too.
Edited by gbbird on Saturday 19th August 20:31
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