Discussion
I've got the Steve Heath links fitted and I think they are a big improvement, I've also got Nitrons so the car cornered nice and flat anyway but the ride was far to hard for the bumpy scottish roads up here. With the drop links on though I have been able to soften the suspension a couple of notches and still have around tha same amount of roll as previously but a much better ride and handling over the bumpy back roads.
As for fitting the garage actually did them simply as it was in there for a service anyway, I don't think it would take you very long though it seems very simple. Hope it helps you make your mind up.
As for fitting the garage actually did them simply as it was in there for a service anyway, I don't think it would take you very long though it seems very simple. Hope it helps you make your mind up.
This is the case, on Steve Heaths site you can downloand the instructions. The only thing you need to watch is to jack up the whole front of the car to make sure the weight is off both wheels so you can get the adjustment of the drop links correct as the anti roll bar will be unstressed then. Then the same for the back.
The instructions are here www.shengltd.com/tvrextras/docs/GFARB-v4.pdf
The instructions are here www.shengltd.com/tvrextras/docs/GFARB-v4.pdf
We currently only have rear drop links. Ours are identical to the original ones but with an improved design to minimise the failure of the shaft.
We have kept to the top rubber mounts as we believe this is better than rose joints top and bottom.(We supply new rubber mounts, large washers nuts with the droplink).
Fitting is very easy and obvious as it is a straight replacement.
Front ones will be available very soon.
We have kept to the top rubber mounts as we believe this is better than rose joints top and bottom.(We supply new rubber mounts, large washers nuts with the droplink).
Fitting is very easy and obvious as it is a straight replacement.
Front ones will be available very soon.
The problem with the existing drop links is down to servicing and 2 engineering aspects.
Combined this makes for a failure.
We have kept with the rubber bushes for many reasons not least of which is that correctly maintained they last for many thousands of miles. Just think how many Tuscan and Cerbera miles have been covered. Also the bushes help to reduce transmitted (or not originate) any noise to the inside of the car.
Combined this makes for a failure.
We have kept with the rubber bushes for many reasons not least of which is that correctly maintained they last for many thousands of miles. Just think how many Tuscan and Cerbera miles have been covered. Also the bushes help to reduce transmitted (or not originate) any noise to the inside of the car.
Depends on your driving style. Drift cars are rock solid on the rear which makes them very predictable when the back end goes. The oversteer is progressive and predictable. I'm no expert, I freely admit that, but the thought of little rear roll stiffness while cornering at high speed, and if things get out of shape, well, not for me anyway. I've bought the SH droplinks front and rear, and will report on how they work soon. I've come from hard sprung / hard damped imports and I really liked the go-cart handling. When I first drove the Cerb it was like being in a barge going round bends at speed!!!! Hopefully not anymore.........
alinton said:
Do you recommend removing the anti roll bar on Cerbs Joo?
Andy.
Andy.
Well [sensible hat] not as a matter of course, only as part of an upgrade .. however if i had a std cerbera one of the first things I'd be doing is disconnecting the rear roll bar .. you can remove the early lower bar, but the later "through chassis" bar is a pig and i just cable tie it's ends up out of the way of the suspension movement.
The next thing i'd be doing is redrilling the front bar to move the link rod towards the bar pivot to make it's action stiffer .. [/sensible hat]
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