Re profiling intakes

[caduceus]

Someone a while back wrote a thread about the restrictive nature of the intakes on his 4.5. It had bad 'ledges' where one surface met another.
So he used a dremel to smooth them off.

I can't remember who it was, and I have done a search but no joy.

Does anyone remember this thread or who it was?

Thanks
Cad

[Julian64]

I think quite a few of us have done this now. What did you want to know about it?

[Nickccc]

Here you go
www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm
all you need to know.
If you do go for it let us know how you get on.
Nick.

[caduceus]

Julian64 said:

I think quite a few of us have done this now. What did you want to know about it?

Errm, everything. Sorry, I know thats vague.
I'm in the process of changing the oil pressure switch, and have found some other things that need attention along the way (rubber injector seals, bent intake sleeve).

But I did notice the silly ledges where two surfaces join, and how restrictive they must be.
So I thought seeing as I've taken quite a bit out, I may aswell take them off and get the Dremel out

Just would be nice to read that thread to see what he did and how he did it.

[Julian64]

Thats about it dremel out and remove ridges. Taking care not to go near the butterflies. I ended up using a drill powering a felixdrive as I found it easier to reach the ridges from teh bottom.

[caduceus]

Thanks Jules.

Is there anything I need to know before I take out intake rail? Like, "if you take the intakes out, you need to have the airflow calibrated again, as they will probably not go back in the same place". ( I remeber reading something like this whilst searching for said thread)

Are thyey a pig to take out?

Thanks

[Julian64]

no just pull hard after removing the retaining bolts. When you put the injectors back in washing up liquid or water based grease, you know (K-Y Jelly) workes wonders to allow the seals to push in easily.

[caduceus]

Are you talking about the top fuel rail, with regard to the pull hard thing?
If so, I meant how hard is the intake assembly to take off. Sorry if I'm getting my wires crossed.

Edited by caduceus on Monday 2nd October 09:57

[Cyclone1]

caduceus said:

[quote=Julian64]But I did notice the silly ledges where two surfaces join, and how restrictive they must be.

Not as restrictive as you would think.

Jules.

[caduceus]

Cyclone1 said:

caduceus said:

[quote=Julian64]But I did notice the silly ledges where two surfaces join, and how restrictive they must be.

Not as restrictive as you would think.

Jules.

Hmm. I have also just spoken to Jason at str8 6 and he tells me they are a nightmare to set back up afterwards.

Think I'll leave well alone.

[robertjp]

caduceus said:

Cyclone1 said:

caduceus said:

[quote=Julian64]But I did notice the silly ledges where two surfaces join, and how restrictive they must be.

Not as restrictive as you would think.

Jules.

Hmm. I have also just spoken to Jason at str8 6 and he tells me they are a nightmare to set back up afterwards.

Think I'll leave well alone.

Be interested to know why its a nightmare to set-up afterward?

Airflow meter, airscrews and some patience should see quite a straight forward set-up shouldnt it? Obviously after the standard link rod & throttle pot reset.

How much of an increase do you see with this mod? if any?

[Cyclone1]

Minimal

[Julian64]

Whats an airscrew, I thought that was something that fitted on the front of an airplane

Seriously I couldn't find a way of individually altering the butterfly's they all seem to be on one long rod, with no method of individually altering.

[robertjp]

The screw that attaches the butterfly valve to the actuator rod can be drilled through the center at various diameters thereby increasing the airflow. allows the individuals and therefore banks to be balanced.

[Julian64]

robertjp said:

The screw that attaches the butterfly valve to the actuator rod can be drilled through the center at various diameters thereby increasing the airflow. allows the individuals and therefore banks to be balanced.

You mean you're opening up the hole and using the play to adjust the valve. If so did you not think the diddly little screws wer'nt really man enough to hold anything but a tight fit hole?

[robertjp]

No, not at all. Actually drilling the centre of the diameter of the bolt itself, along the axis of the thread. Does nothing to the integrity of the bolt in this application. The butterfly valve remains untouched as does the hole in which it sits.

Edited by robertjp on Monday 2nd October 13:34

The bolt hole in the butterfly valve remains untouched as well.

Edited by robertjp on Monday 2nd October 13:36

[Julian64]

robertjp said:

No, not at all. Actually drilling the centre of the diameter of the bolt itself, along the axis of the thread. Does nothing to the integrity of the bolt in this application. The butterfly valve remains untouched as does the hole in which it sits.

Edited by robertjp on Monday 2nd October 13:34

The bolt hole in the butterfly valve remains untouched as well.

Edited by robertjp on Monday 2nd October 13:36

I'm sorry I'm feeling really dense here, can you explain this in term an idiot like me can understand, cos I don't understand this.

[robertjp]

Julian, YHM, i cant post pictures from work.

[Julian64]

robertjp said:

Julian, YHM, i cant post pictures from work.

Thanks

[robertjp]

i am sure there are other ways of doing this, i am not proposing its good,bad or ugly, i just know it works, i have seen it done, and the airflow balanced an AJP very well. And, as i have been asked to do so i am posting what i know...

Sorry its in word, done in a hurry but should give you the basic idea.