Newbie in South of France- Software Hunting
Newbie in South of France- Software Hunting
Author
Discussion

floatingjimi

Original Poster:

358 posts

239 months

Tuesday 31st October 2006
quotequote all
I have just acquired a lovely 4.2, having had Rob Ingleby check it out for me. Really enjoyed the blast down to where I am in the Aude not far from Narbonne. Initialy Rob tried to steer me towards the griff or chimaera as the thoughts were that I would be able to look after them easier down here with a decent mechanic. Well after speaking to a few of you decided to go for the cerb anyway (affair of the heart LOL). I have a great mechanic hear, but am hoping to locate diagnostic software and rebuild/servicing manual sufficient to allow basic servicing incl tappets etc.
Any one out there able to help
thanks in Advance

redleicester

6,869 posts

274 months

Tuesday 31st October 2006
quotequote all
Pictures.....! What car, what spec, what colour?!

Oh, and welcome to the club!

cooky

4,955 posts

266 months

Tuesday 31st October 2006
quotequote all
Hi and welcome to the 'nuthouse' wavey
Will be hooning near your Manor next Summer

floatingjimi

Original Poster:

358 posts

239 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
quotequote all
Hi and welcome to the 'nuthouse'
Will be hooning near your Manor next Summer

Where are you looking to go Cooky, woudl be nice to meet up! Pics to follow

floatingjimi

Original Poster:

358 posts

239 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
quotequote all
Cerbera 4.2 Azurite Blue with flint grey interior, advantage quad lining and grey carpets. Tried to post pic but was unable to. Any joy anyon out there re diagnostic software or rebuild-servicing files?

jensena

5,671 posts

259 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
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I'll sort it out for you when I get back from work tonight (If no one else has done it by then)

Julian64

14,325 posts

283 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
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Yup quite a lot of electronic info out there. Currently about 600Mb so only just crams into a disc or possibly a broadband upload.

spants

1,089 posts

256 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
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recommend using Pando for largish uploads... particularly if sending it to a few people over a few days. Sent a 1.4gb file with no problems. Its also free

www.pando.com

cooky

4,955 posts

266 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
quotequote all
floatingjimi said:
Hi and welcome to the 'nuthouse'
Will be hooning near your Manor next Summer

Where are you looking to go Cooky, woudl be nice to meet up! Pics to follow


We will be in France 'whit' week, that's usually around last week of May first week in June, but not down south, will be dooin' a spot of carp fishing at my mates place 'Brulon' in La Sarthe region, about 20 mins from Le Mans. Don't think I'll be hooning South until late July/August when we will head for Millau again and the Tarn Gorge. Prob head up into the Midi Pyranees and into Northern Spain (Andora) for a mooch around, and back over towards St Tropez for a few days loafing on the beaches. Nothing formal just 'have car will hoon' sort of thing. Can't wait though, roaring through the Massive Central blasting out an AC-DC accompanyment to the 'pops and bangs'is just awesome hehe
Will also be doin' some house-hunting as Mrs Cooky and I are on the lookout for a place somewhere warmer. It would be great to meet up and have a blast around biglaugh as you know the locals love to see Tiv's and are always keen for a chat.

For anyone else who is thinking of taking a Tiv down to southern France....Go for it, it is a very special experience and I recomend it whole heartedly. Best Jolly we've had in ages and one to be repeated...as often as you can.

floatingjimi

Original Poster:

358 posts

239 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
quotequote all
Thanks guys, I am on broadband so no worries on the file size side of things, otherwise I am sure a bottle of red or other can sort any postage issues incurred.
Cooky, if you are serious about property pm me. I have been here for some five years and what started as a hobby now takes up a lot of my time. The last project I have completed is an old wine cave, which is now converted in to a six bed house with lots of toys. I am selling it as it is too big, bit of a folie, but liked it so much, bought the place accross the road to do the same thing, just smaller!!!
here is the link to the place for sale
http://alberthonig.com/219788/1914355

Re driving around here, it is fantastic (however dept 11,34 have the highest mortality rate for road accidents).
Also enjoy blasting past the speed cameras with the uk plates. The gendarmerie must have loads of pics of me smiling or waving.

floatingjimi

Original Poster:

358 posts

239 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
quotequote all
p.s added pics to my profile.

jensena

5,671 posts

259 months

Wednesday 1st November 2006
quotequote all
floatingjimi - YHM

floatingjimi

Original Poster:

358 posts

239 months

Thursday 2nd November 2006
quotequote all
jensena floatingjimi - YHM

Top Man, many thanks

ireland

3,517 posts

243 months

Thursday 2nd November 2006
quotequote all
How does this diagnostic software work for you?

Is it just a case of loading it on to the laptop, plugging it in to the car, and go from there?

I know there is a section in the CD I got (thanks again) that mentions the diagnostics but I couldn't open it.

Is there somewhere I could download it from?

I'm a bit adrift over here as well when it comes to service, etc.

jensena

5,671 posts

259 months

Thursday 2nd November 2006
quotequote all
ireland said:
How does this diagnostic software work for you?

Is it just a case of loading it on to the laptop, plugging it in to the car, and go from there?


Hi Ireland, yes thats about it really. Once you are using it, all will become clear. It tells you what your engine is doing, and the main rectification you can do is to get the engine running right (or verify that it is) by blancing the banks and then the throttle pots, and there are plenty of threads on here relating to that. So give it ago.

byker28i

91,572 posts

246 months

Friday 3rd November 2006
quotequote all
from the stuff I have:


Help on Real-time Logging

To select real-time logging use the WINDOW menu at the top of the screen, or "click"
on the real time logging title box using the left mouse button.
The real time logging window allows you to view the inputs and outputs of the ECU
as they are happening (i.e. in real time), in graphical form.
It is particularly useful for pinpointing intermittent faults.
You can choose which parameters you wish to log from a menu accessed by pressing
the RIGHT HAND mouse button, when the cursor is on the real time logging screen.

You can record your logging session by "clicking" on the record box on the screen.The
blue box should now flash "RECORDING" in red. To end your recording "click" on the stop
box (current data will continue to be displayed in the logging screen) To replay the
recorded data, "click" on the replay box.

Maximise the logging screen by "clicking" on the up arrow at this screen. To
further enhance viewing you can zoom in on a section of screen by holding the left
mouse button down and drawing a box with the cursor. Releasing the mouse button will
zoom the screen to the box that has been drawn. After zooming press escape to return
to the logging screen. If a large amount of data has been logged, you can scroll
through it using the left or right arrows, to find the section of interest. Control
and arrow will scroll quickly.

If you wish to keep recorded data permanently, you must specify a file name under
which it will be kept. To do this press the right mouse button and choose "change
filename". "Click" on the filename box, then type in your chosen file name followed
by .rtl e.g. test1.rtl
If you do not specify a filename, a temporary file called Temp1.rtl will be used.
This will be overwritten next time you log something.
Logged data can be replayed without the ECU connected. The cursor can be used to
point to any part of the logged trace and the logged data at this point will be shown
in the box on the right hand side of the screen.


byker28i

91,572 posts

246 months

Friday 3rd November 2006
quotequote all
Help on real-time Display

The real-time display has 4 screens.
Use the PgUp and PgDn keys to toggle between them.

The first screen is the main screen and it is called the engine monitor screen
it shows all the main inputs and outputs of the ECU.(Press PgDn whilst in help
to find HELP for other real-time screens)

SCREEN 1 - ENGINE MONITOR SCREEN

INPUTS

ENGINE SPEED
Engine speed is displayed in RPM and it should correspond to actual engine speed.
Spurious or non-existent readings denote a faulty sensor or sensor wiring. Check
sensor for damage, metal debris on its end, corrosion or water in its terminals,
and correct polarity (see wiring diagram )

THROTTLE POSITION
Throttle position is displayed as a percentage of throttle potentiometer movement.
15% corresponds to a fully shut throttle, 94% to a fully open one. Idle position
is at approx. 19%. There are two throttle position sensors, one for each bank.
Page down to the third real-time screen to display throttle pot. readings only.
Throttle pot readings should be equal on both banks to within a few percent, and
must not fluctuate more than 3%. The readings should increase smoothly with
increasing throttle travel and remain approximately equal on both banks. If the
ECU detects a fault with one of the throttle pot readings it will substitute the
value from the other throttle pot, so they will both display EXACTLY THE SAME
READING.

AIR TEMP
Air temperature is measured by the sensor by the side of the air filter. If the
ECU detects a fault with this reading it will substitute a value of 10 degrees C.

WATER TEMP
Water temperature is measured by the sensor in the metal water pipe underneath the
trim panel in the front of the engine bay.If the ECU detects a fault with this
reading it will substitute a value of 95 degrees C. The engine cooling fans are
controlled by this temperature reading, and are turned on at 92 deg C, off at
88 deg C. Therefore under fault conditions the cooling fans will be turned on.

BATTERY VOLTAGE
Battery voltage is displayed in volts. It should normally read between 12.0 & 13.8V
There is no default value.

BAROMETRIC PRESSURE
Barometric pressure is measured from the left hand air box and is displayed in mBAR.
It should correspond to the air pressure as measured on a barometer. If the ECU
detects a fault with this reading it will substitute a value of 1000 mBAR. The
pressure sensor is mounted inside the car to protect it from excessive heat. If
incorrectreadings are displayed, check the pipe between the sensor and airbox for
blockages or leaks.

LAMBDA 1 & LAMBDA 2
Lambda 1&2 show the signals from the lambda sensors on each bank. After starting the
sensors will take at least 30 seconds to warm up, before they will read correctly .
Once warmed up, the lambda signals should switch between approx. 0 & 1-1.5 volts.
0 volts shows that the fuel mixture is lean, 1 volt shows that the mixture is rich.
The rate of switching will alter with engine speed, and the percentage of time spent
rich relative to lean will alter with engine load. If reading is a CONSTANT 0 V, check
sensor for proper connection, and sensor heater wires for continuity (6 ohms between
white red wires)
NOTE: Lambda sensors are supplied with 12V on the red wires ONLY WHEN THE
FUELPUMP IS RUNNING, the WHITE wire is earth and BLACK the signal.

OUTPUTS
FUEL 1 & FUEL 2
Fuel injection time is displayed for each bank. When water temp >80 C at idle it
should be between 2.2 & 2.4 ms. Higher readings than this could indicate misfiring
due to fouled plugs, incorrectly balanced throttle assemblies, or faulty lambda
sensor readings. Check primary exhaust pipe temperatures to detect poorly running
cylinders, and check cylinder airflow with syncrometer to detect poor balance. If
all cylinders are running correctly check lambda sensors as above, replace if
faulty. If a cylinder is still not running properly, disconnect the suspect injector
and connect the injector circuit tester. Start the engine and run for A FEW SECONDS
ONLY. If the injector circuit is OK, then the tester will flash whilst the engine is
running. DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE FOR EXTENDED PERIODS WITH THE INJECTORS
DISCONNECTED AS SERIOUS DAMAGE TO THE CATALYTIC CONVERTERS WILL OCCUR.

ADAPTIVE 1 & ADAPTIVE 2
These numbers represent the percentage by which the ECU has adjusted the amount of
fuel being injected in order to achieve the correct mixture. There are adaptive
values for every combination of speed and load, which will change independently of
each other. If the engine is running correctly this percentage should be low. If it
is high ( >+/-20 percent) then a fault or maladjusted throttle pot should be
suspected.

IF A CAR HAS BEEN RUNNING BADLY WITH FAULTS PRESENT, THE ADAPTIVE MAPS
MUST BE RESET TO ZERO. This is done by selecting "ZERO ADAPTIVE MAPS" from
the ECU TOOLS menu.

Disconnecting the ECU does not erase its memory on 941 series ECUs!

IGNITION
Ignition timing is displayed in degrees before TDC. At idle, with coolant temp above
80 C , it should be between 17 & 22 degrees. If it is not, check all inputs for
correct readings, and check idle speed is set at 950 RPM.

FUEL PUMP
This denotes if the ECU has turned on the fuel pump. It does this by grounding pin 25
of the ECU, which completes the circuit for the fuel pump relay, thus turning the
relay on. If the pump appears turned on by the ECU but does not work, check that the
inertia switch has not tripped (the MIL lamp will turn on for 3 seconds when ignition
is turned on.) The inertia switch is located in the boot above the fuel tank. If the
fuel pump still doesn't work, check the relay No. 4 has a 12V supply to pins 85 & 30/51
if it does not check fuse 19.
NOTE! The fuel pump relay must be a twin make (brown) relay.

RAD FAN
This denotes if the ECU has turned on the radiator cooling fans. It does this when the
water temp input is above 92 C fan 1 ,94 C fan 2, or if a fault is present in the water
temp input. ECU pins 6 & 41 are grounded, to turn on the cooling fan relay(s). If the
fans appear turned on by the ECU but do not work, check the relay 1 & 7 has a 12V
supply to pins 85 & 30/51, if it does not, check fuse 1 , 3 and 20.

FAULTS, CURRENT & LOGGED - screen 2
This screen shows any input faults that the ECU has detected. Current faults are shown
at the top, logged faults below.
Logged faults are ones that have been detected in the past and may or may not still be
present. NOTE: FAULTS WILL BE LOGGED IF ANY SENSOR WIRES ARE
DISCONNECTED WHILST THE IGNITION IS TURNED ON!

Current faults will turn the MIL lamp on. Logged faults will not.
Observing the logged faults can be useful when tracing intermittent faults.
Logged faults can be removed by using the ECU Tools menu, or by connecting the fault
code diagnostic box to the diagnostic plug adjacent to the ECU connector, turning the
immobiliser off, and the ignition on. Then press and hold the black button on the
diagnostic box for at least three seconds.

THROTTLE 1 or 2 FLT
These faults are shown if the throttle pot readings are out of range.Thottle 1 is for
bank 1(cylinders 1357), throttle 2 is for bank 2(cylinders 2468) If a fault is detected
on one bank, then that input signal will be ignored, and both cylinders will be run
using the "good" throttle pot signal from the other bank.The MIL lamp will be turned
on.
bank 1 (cylinders 1357 ) , throttle 2 for bank 2 (cylinders 2468 ) If a fault is detected on one bank, then that input signal will be ignored, and both banks will be run using the "good" throttle pot signal from the other bank. The MIL lamp will be turned on.
Throttle pot faults
can be caused by: Water ingress into throttle pot, its connector or wiring.
(usually due to the use of a power washer)
Corrosion on throttle pot connectors.
(only use TVR gold plated connectors and throttle pots)
Mechanical damage to pot or wiring.
Throttle pot worn or "noisy"

WHEN A THROTTLE POTENTIOMETER IS REPLACED, IT MUST BE SEALED ONTO THE
THROTTLE BODY USING A SMALL AMOUNT OF SILICONE SEALANT TO PREVENT WATER
INGRESS. IT MUST THEN IMMEDIATELY BE SET CORRECTLY BEFORE THE SEALANT
SETS.

WATER FLT
This fault is shown if the water temperature signal is out of range.If it occurs,
a water temp of 95 C will be substituted, the cooling fans will be turned on to
prevent overheating, and the MIL lamp will be turned on.

Water fault can
be caused by: Water ingress into the water temperature sensor's connector
or wiring
Mechanical damage to sensor or wiring
Corrosion on sensor terminals or connector
Faulty sensor

AIR FLT
This fault is shown if the air temperature signal is out of range.If it occurs, an air
temp of 10 C will be substituted, and the MIL lamp will be turned on.

Air fault can
be caused by: Water ingress into the air temp sensor's connector or wiring
Mechanical damage to sensor or wiring
Corrosion on sensor terminals or connector
Faulty sensor

BARO FLT
This fault is shown if the barometric pressure signal is outside its normal range.
If it occurs, an atmospheric air pressure of 1000 mBAR will be substituted, and the
MIL lamp will be turned on.

Barometric fault
can be caused by: Kinked,broken or blocked barometric sensor pipe
Excessively clogged air filter
Mechanical damage to sensor or wiring
Corrosion on sensor terminals or connector
Faulty sensor

BAT FLT
This fault is shown if the battery voltage falls below 11 V,or rises above 17v whilst
engine speed is above 1500 RPM.

LAMBDA 1 & LAMBDA 2
These faults are shown if the lambda sensor signal rises above 1.7V.If it occurs the
MIL lamp will be turned on.

Lambda fault
can be caused by: Water ingress into the lambda sensor's connector or wiring.
Mechanical damage to sensor or wiring, causing a short
between the supply and signal wires.
Faulty sensor

AFR 1357 & 2468 FLT
These faults are shown if the adaptive values have reached their limits for bank 1357
or bank 2468, i.e. the system has attempted to adjust the mixture by an excessive
amount.
If either occur the MIL lamp will be turned on.

AFR fault can
be caused by: Excessive fuel pressure ( > 58 psi )
Air leaks in exhaust or inlet manifolds
Liquid fuel in purge system (check that the fuel tank breather
pipe is higher than the filler cap, and carbon can is empty of
liquid fuel)
Excessive purging due to overheating fuel (check fuel pipe routing
for heat pickup, insulate or reroute as required)
Incorrectly adjusted or faulty throttle potentiometers (check readings)
Faulty lambda sensors, or lambda sensor wiring

CRANK WIRING
This fault is shown if the crankshaft speed sensor is incorrectly wired up. Check polarity
and reconnect as shown in wiring diagram (black to pin 1 on sensor and to pin 2 on ECU,
white to pin 2 on sensor and to pin 12 on ECU )

CRANK SENSOR
This fault is shown if the crank sensor signal is poor.If it occurs the MIL lamp will NOT
be turned on. It may however flash as a poor signal is detected, depending on the severity
of the fault.

Crank sensor fault
can be caused by: Debris on end of crank sensor (remove and clean)
Water ingress into sensor connector or wiring Corrosion on sensor
terminals (clean or replace connector terminals using only gold plated
terminals)
Damaged trigger wheel on flywheel
Damaged crank sensor wiring (replace ONLY WITH SPECIAL CRANK
SENSOR WIRE)

SCREEN 3 - THROTTLE POT SETTING SCREEN

This screen shows the readings from throttle pot 1(at the top of the screen) and
throttle pot 2 (below) in large text.
This enables you to see the throttle pot readings from a large distance when adjusting
the throttle pots.
The throttle pot readings should be set to 15% WHEN THE THROTTLE BUTTERFLIES
ARE COMPLETELY CLOSED (i.e. with the THROTTLE STOP WOUND FULLY IN and with the
LINK ROD REMOVED)

When idling at 950 rpm at normal operating temperature the readings should be 18%+-2%

The throttle pot inputs are very sensitive and may be subject to a certain amount of
electrical noise (+/-2%) THIS IS NORMAL. However if this "noise" is excessive the
ECU may start to add acceleration fuel. If this occurs (observe dTHROTTLE box in the
AFR STATUS SCREEN) check that the HT leads are in good condition,FITTED TO ALL
THE PLUGS CORRECTLY and NOT TIE-WRAPPED TO THE MAIN ENGINE HARNESS.
Change the throttle pot if this fault persists.




AFR STATUS SCREEN
This screen shows in more detail the workings of the closed loop fuel system.
It should be viewed to establish that system is working correctly.
In order to work correctly, the catalytic converters must be supplied with exhaust gas
from chemically correct combustion. This means that the air fuel ratio must be
maintained at 14.6:1. This is done by using LAMBDA sensors in the exhaust gas to
measure whether combustion was rich or lean. When in a "rich" gas, the lambda sensor
will read appox 1-1.5V (provided it has warmed up) When in a "lean" gas, it will read
approx 0V. If it was rich the ECU reduces the amount of fuel to be injected at the
particular speed and load that the engine was at, when the exhaust gas being measured,
was created. If the mixture was lean, the ECU would increase the amount of fuel to be
injected. This adjustment is remembered as an adaptive value. There many adaptive
values created for all combinations of speed and load. Thus the ECU "retunes" the
engine throughout its life to maintain optimum performance.
Before lambda control can begin the lambda sensors must be allowed to warm up. This is
shown in the warm up timer box, and should last for approx. 30 seconds.
The engine temp must also be high enough to maintain combustion at an AFR of 14.6:1.
This is shown by the water temp box.
In order to accelerate cleanly without missing a richer mixture is required. This is
provided when rate of change of throttle position (dTHROTTLE) is detected. So, close
loop control is suspended whilst dTHROTTLE is present.
Very rapid changes in engine speed make reliable closed loop control impossible, so it
is also suspended under these conditions, as shown in the dSPEED box.
When running correctly, the lambda voltages should switch between 0 & 1V (approx.).
When under light load these voltages will stay predominantly lean (0V), with rich
spikes (1V).
As the load increases the engine should tend towards equal periods of running rich and
lean.
As the throttle position tends towards fully open, or the engine speed increases above
4000rpm closed loop control will be suspended in order to maximise performance.
This is shown in the LAMBDA CONTROL box.

byker28i

91,572 posts

246 months

Friday 3rd November 2006
quotequote all
Help on Using the maps

The adaptive maps can be uploaded from the ECU so that they can be inspected for
spurious data that could be responsible for poor or erratic running. To do this
choose ECU TOOLS from the menu bar, followed by "upload adaptive map" and "bank1357"
or "bank2468". The adaptive map will then be displayed in numerical and graphical
form. The graph represents one "line" of the map below it. This "line" can be selected by
"clicking" on to a speed box or throttle position box. E.g. if you click on the 2000 rpm box
all throttle positions at 2000 rpm will be highlighted in blue. This line is shown by the
blue graph. the red graph shows the previous speed line, the green graph shows the next
speed line.
Ideally these lines should stay roughly horizontal and close to 0 % .If values are
high (>+/-20 %) or erratic, suspect excessive purging , worn/erratic throttle pots, leaks
in exhaust/intake manifolds, faulty lambda sensors or incorrect fuel pressure (see "real
time help" for fault screen).

If you wish to save an adaptive map that you have uploaded, "click" on File then on
Save Map to Disc ."Click" on the filename box and type in your chosen filename followed
by .map e.g. map1.map
You can view a map that has been saved at a later date without the ECU connected. To
do this "click" on File, then on Load Map From Disc, next "click" on the file name you
wish to view then on the OK box. The map will now be displayed as before.

floatingjimi

Original Poster:

358 posts

239 months

Friday 3rd November 2006
quotequote all
Great posting Byker 28i, I am looking forward to checking everything out.

keithyboy

1,940 posts

299 months

Saturday 4th November 2006
quotequote all
clap byker. Can someone give me some definitive advice on hooking up to the ECU. I have an almost new laptop with no serial port but plenty of USBs! I've heard that the converters you can buy do not work. Comments anyone? Thanks