advice from you daily drivers, please
Discussion
Had her cutting off twice in recent days (yes I do know it was very wet and I do know she's a TVR), first time started again after a couple of minutes, today would not turn engine (sounded like flat battery- started only after additional battery was connected). Before and after cutting out she was running no probs.
I collected her from a service @ fernies recently (all tests passed OK)
I assume when I bought her in march the battery was new (I will check as soon as)
I do not get warning codes whilst driving
I drive pretty short distances and with this weather you have a lot of consumption (lights, heater, electric screen and mirror heating, wireless ) going on
she seemed to be charging OK (the road assistant tested today)
I keep her om a solar charger during the day when not in use
Could she drain more power in short distance travel with heaters etc then she generates @ the same time?
Could the solar charger drain the battery in these weather conditions?
Could a new battery go beyond help in 6 months?
Could it be something else (power drain- big fuse problem???)
Your help will be appreciated would like to meet some of you in London this WE
Regards
Oliver
I collected her from a service @ fernies recently (all tests passed OK)
I assume when I bought her in march the battery was new (I will check as soon as)
I do not get warning codes whilst driving
I drive pretty short distances and with this weather you have a lot of consumption (lights, heater, electric screen and mirror heating, wireless ) going on
she seemed to be charging OK (the road assistant tested today)
I keep her om a solar charger during the day when not in use
Could she drain more power in short distance travel with heaters etc then she generates @ the same time?
Could the solar charger drain the battery in these weather conditions?
Could a new battery go beyond help in 6 months?
Could it be something else (power drain- big fuse problem???)
Your help will be appreciated would like to meet some of you in London this WE
Regards
Oliver
I would like to know the same. Was sitting in traffic for an hour a while back: heater, lights, stereo on. Traffic stopped crawling and literally stopped, so after 5mins I stopped the engine. Would not re-start, was dead as a dodo (turned lights off but heater and stereo was running, was only for 5mins or so).
Though I do wonder if some of the brushes on my alternator dyno might be wearing out as when sitting about, I notice that the headlights and warning lights on the dash do brighten with a few revs....
Though I do wonder if some of the brushes on my alternator dyno might be wearing out as when sitting about, I notice that the headlights and warning lights on the dash do brighten with a few revs....
I also drive mine everyday, below are some of the habits I have developed to prevent such things happening.
1. Never, ever, ever risk unnecessary power drainage from the car. (I had a flat batery once from just the hazard lights running for 25mins).
2. On start up, make sure everyhting is off, a common mistake is the air fans, you can never tell if they are off or on. On shut down, I am as obsessive as a 747 pilot, checking and double checking that ALL instruments and electrics are off; Navi, stereo, fans, interior light, everything!
3. As you pull into your driveway or when parking, try switching off the lights first, but continue to let the engine run for a further 10seconds or so before pressing the red button.
4. The alternator is indeed a piece of poo poo, so short distances are not going to replace the lost energy as well as a longer drive, try taking the long way home
5. I would double check the Big Fuse and spray some contact on it as it could be damp? It's something I do just for safety's sake every two weeks.
6. With all your heating gadgets and wireless etc, you are definitely putting a strain on the battery. Buy some FogX or RainX for the mirrors and glass and you won't need to worry about the extra heating or demisting.
FYI: I do not use a trickle charger, and the weather here is as close to if not colder than the UK, and I have not experienced any battery probs for 2 months, so I must be doing something right. Or just lucky. Being obsessive compulsive with turning everything off is a good thing.
Of course, I have now jinxed myself forever.
Best of luck with it.
K
1. Never, ever, ever risk unnecessary power drainage from the car. (I had a flat batery once from just the hazard lights running for 25mins).
2. On start up, make sure everyhting is off, a common mistake is the air fans, you can never tell if they are off or on. On shut down, I am as obsessive as a 747 pilot, checking and double checking that ALL instruments and electrics are off; Navi, stereo, fans, interior light, everything!
3. As you pull into your driveway or when parking, try switching off the lights first, but continue to let the engine run for a further 10seconds or so before pressing the red button.
4. The alternator is indeed a piece of poo poo, so short distances are not going to replace the lost energy as well as a longer drive, try taking the long way home
5. I would double check the Big Fuse and spray some contact on it as it could be damp? It's something I do just for safety's sake every two weeks.
6. With all your heating gadgets and wireless etc, you are definitely putting a strain on the battery. Buy some FogX or RainX for the mirrors and glass and you won't need to worry about the extra heating or demisting.
FYI: I do not use a trickle charger, and the weather here is as close to if not colder than the UK, and I have not experienced any battery probs for 2 months, so I must be doing something right. Or just lucky. Being obsessive compulsive with turning everything off is a good thing.
Of course, I have now jinxed myself forever.
Best of luck with it.
K
Mine's a daily driver, short distance to work and back.
The battery that came with the car, lasted three years, the second one that I fitted lasted 2 1/2 years.
Get the battery tested properly, under load.
I was watching "auto trader" on sky the other day and the mechanic tested the battery by putting a multimeter on it to see if it had 12 volts. This would prove nothing, as what you want to know, is has it got 12 volts when you're trying to pull 40 odd amps from it.
Put a multimeter on the battery when the car's running and see what voltage your getting. Should be 13.2 to 14.4 volts (13.8), this should rule out your alternator.
And as said, make sure that big fuse is in perfect nick.
I'm guessing one of the Cerb's problems is the alarm system. It's got it's own self contained battery that's probably never been changed in the car's ten year life. Eventually it will dry out and your car trying to charge it, could cause no end of grief.
I've pulled mine out.
The battery that came with the car, lasted three years, the second one that I fitted lasted 2 1/2 years.
Get the battery tested properly, under load.
I was watching "auto trader" on sky the other day and the mechanic tested the battery by putting a multimeter on it to see if it had 12 volts. This would prove nothing, as what you want to know, is has it got 12 volts when you're trying to pull 40 odd amps from it.
Put a multimeter on the battery when the car's running and see what voltage your getting. Should be 13.2 to 14.4 volts (13.8), this should rule out your alternator.
And as said, make sure that big fuse is in perfect nick.
I'm guessing one of the Cerb's problems is the alarm system. It's got it's own self contained battery that's probably never been changed in the car's ten year life. Eventually it will dry out and your car trying to charge it, could cause no end of grief.
I've pulled mine out.
V8Cerbera said:
I would like to know the same. Was sitting in traffic for an hour a while back: heater, lights, stereo on. Traffic stopped crawling and literally stopped, so after 5mins I stopped the engine. Would not re-start, was dead as a dodo (turned lights off but heater and stereo was running, was only for 5mins or so).
Though I do wonder if some of the brushes on my alternator dyno might be wearing out as when sitting about, I notice that the headlights and warning lights on the dash do brighten with a few revs....
Though I do wonder if some of the brushes on my alternator dyno might be wearing out as when sitting about, I notice that the headlights and warning lights on the dash do brighten with a few revs....
Getting also the same thing i.e. that the fans and lights change their speed brightness with revs- rev counter is playing up as well btw... only starting to work properly after a few miles..#
OW I do the always switch everything off b4 I stop the engine- had her on the accumate over night and this morning she started OK- I really wonder what the B
y solar-charger does... I have a spare big fuse- can you guys tell me where to find it (its not in the fuse box I saw...)- I hope its not in the footwell because there is a minoe lek so it will be damp down there...
Edited by cramorra on Tuesday 21st November 10:08
As already mentioned, you can test if the Alternator is charging - through the big fuse - by putting a multimeter across the battery (+ve terminal and a suitable ground like the engine oil cap). It should be well above 13V with the engine running. If you switch the engine off, the voltage should drop to just above 12V. This will eliminate the big fuse and alternator. Reading your symptoms leads me to suspect that it isn't your big fuse or alternator as when the car was running she didn't conk out - which is what happened to me when stuck in traffic and my big fuse had gone. I suspect the alternator was keeping the electrics going rather than the battery. If you've done the above checks and the big fuse and alternator is ok, then you need to get the battery checked out by an auto electrician. They have a device that allows them to check whether or not the battery is holding the charge. I think the AA/RAC can also do this.
It should be noted that sometimes the big fuse can develop a hairline crack - probably because it's next to the engine. This will restrict the amount of current from the Alternator and hence reduce the charging rate. So if you do see a rise, it needs to be well above the 13V to rule out the big fuse and alternator.
If you are not getting a voltage rise then you can check either side of the big fuse when the car is running. As already mentioned, the big fuse is by the alternator at the back of the engine in a little box that may be cable tied closed. I find it easier to take the wiper cowling off. Use the +ve lead of your multimeter on one of the binding nuts that holds the big fuse. Your -ve lead needs to be grounded - use the engine oil cap. You must be careful as this fuse is capable of sinking 100A and you must ensure that you dont short it to ground with your lead! Do this check on both nuts and if they are different then the big fuse has gone. Remember to disconnect the battery before changing. If the reading is the same, then it's probably your alternator. Most of the time it's the rectifier module within the alternator and can be replaced relatively cheaply.
Hope this helps.
It should be noted that sometimes the big fuse can develop a hairline crack - probably because it's next to the engine. This will restrict the amount of current from the Alternator and hence reduce the charging rate. So if you do see a rise, it needs to be well above the 13V to rule out the big fuse and alternator.
If you are not getting a voltage rise then you can check either side of the big fuse when the car is running. As already mentioned, the big fuse is by the alternator at the back of the engine in a little box that may be cable tied closed. I find it easier to take the wiper cowling off. Use the +ve lead of your multimeter on one of the binding nuts that holds the big fuse. Your -ve lead needs to be grounded - use the engine oil cap. You must be careful as this fuse is capable of sinking 100A and you must ensure that you dont short it to ground with your lead! Do this check on both nuts and if they are different then the big fuse has gone. Remember to disconnect the battery before changing. If the reading is the same, then it's probably your alternator. Most of the time it's the rectifier module within the alternator and can be replaced relatively cheaply.
Hope this helps.
RUSSELLM said:
I'm guessing one of the Cerb's problems is the alarm system. It's got it's own self contained battery that's probably never been changed in the car's ten year life. Eventually it will dry out and your car trying to charge it, could cause no end of grief.
I've pulled mine out.
RUSSELM
Good idea, where is the alarm battery? I must admit I was going mad when the alarm continued after disconncting the battery during stater motor running on.
I assume the alarm will still work until the main battery has run down, but it does mean someone can disconnect the battery and steal in peace. Oh No!! Stu
demondad said:
RUSSELLM said:
I'm guessing one of the Cerb's problems is the alarm system. It's got it's own self contained battery that's probably never been changed in the car's ten year life. Eventually it will dry out and your car trying to charge it, could cause no end of grief.
I've pulled mine out.
RUSSELM
Good idea, where is the alarm battery? I must admit I was going mad when the alarm continued after disconnecting the battery during stater motor running on. I assume the alarm will still work until the main battery has run down, but it does mean someone can disconnect the battery and steal in peace. Oh No!! Stu
The alarm battery is in the alarm siren, when I say I took mine out, I meant the whole siren.
In theory the alarm siren has got a relay in it, when it's getting 12 volts from the car battery everything is OK, when that 12volt source is removed, the siren then sounds, powered by it's own internal battery.
The idea being, that the siren still sounds if someone rips it out or if someone cuts the 12V from your battery (the same as a bell box on a house alarm)
I'm guessing that there's a life span on the internal alarm battery & relay (SAB module), which at ten years, mine's surpassed
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