New Springs and Settings
Discussion
My springs and dampers are getting a bit tired on my car.So in the new year im going to invest in a set of GAZ Protech(i think thats right)dampers and springs.What i wanted to know from anyone is how do you set them up?Im going to fit them myself so any advice on setting would be appreciated.My current ones you can turn and they click to give you the height you want.Do i do the same with the new set up?and if so how many turns per front and back?
Mark
Mark
For height adjustable coilover units you really need a set of corner scales to get the weight right and to try and retain the front/rear rake.
Mines set 50/50 Fr/Rr with me in the driver seat and 1/2 tank of fuel.
As for the damping, I'e always worked on the premise that you set it as soft as you can but still retaining control. Softer allows for improved traction yet too soft and your wheels will end up bouncing all about the place.
Mines set 50/50 Fr/Rr with me in the driver seat and 1/2 tank of fuel.
As for the damping, I'e always worked on the premise that you set it as soft as you can but still retaining control. Softer allows for improved traction yet too soft and your wheels will end up bouncing all about the place.
Go to Absolutely Shocks and get them from the Gazman (Derek). I worked with him & APM on the three way adjustables and with the factory at Brands to set them up at the optimum levels for road and track, they are fantastic and a real improvment on the others I've had for all round ability; traction, handling, ride, comfort etc. Ask them what you want them for and they'll sort it all out for you or you can go to one of their friendly indys. Worth the money to go for the three way to get the bump and spring stiffness right so that you don't keep grounding out. On the other extreme I am keeping them on for the Tuscan Challenge as I have great confidence in the feel. They have also taken a real pounding, including coming off at the top of Prescott at Semi-Circle and bouncing all the way down to the gate at the bottom!
Edited by Jonnyw on Thursday 28th December 14:42
ridds said:
For height adjustable coilover units you really need a set of corner scales to get the weight right and to try and retain the front/rear rake.
Mines set 50/50 Fr/Rr with me in the driver seat and 1/2 tank of fuel.
Mines set 50/50 Fr/Rr with me in the driver seat and 1/2 tank of fuel.
Spring rate, ride height, damper settings and suspension geometry are all critically important. Corner weighting tbh I consider a waste of time for most people. In any case it won't change the front/rear weight distribution or the left/right weight distribution, all it will do is remove jacking (torsional preload) from the suspension. And you won't have any of that if you have a straight chassis and simply set the left/right spring seats to the same height.
No pictures as yet as it is in bits but I am working on a website to drum up some more sponsorship, it isn't cheap to get there, which will have a more in depth report on the car.
The organisers of the Dunlop TVR Tuscan Challenge have been extremely helpfull and I think some people are as excited as me that there is going to be at least 1 Cerb in the 2007 championship............................................................Itsallyellow is also up for it!
The organisers of the Dunlop TVR Tuscan Challenge have been extremely helpfull and I think some people are as excited as me that there is going to be at least 1 Cerb in the 2007 championship............................................................Itsallyellow is also up for it!
Jonnyw said:
Go to Absolutely Shocks and get them from the Gazman (Derek). I worked with him & APM on the three way adjustables and with the factory at Brands to set them up at the optimum levels for road and track, they are fantastic and a real improvment on the others I've had for all round ability; traction, handling, ride, comfort etc. Ask them what you want them for and they'll sort it all out for you or you can go to one of their friendly indys. Worth the money to go for the three way to get the bump and spring stiffness right so that you don't keep grounding out. On the other extreme I am keeping them on for the Tuscan Challenge as I have great confidence in the feel. They have also taken a real pounding, including coming off at the top of Prescott at Semi-Circle and bouncing all the way down to the gate at the bottom!
Ive had an e-mail from Derek offering me advice.My current set up is getting a bit tired.The springs are rubbing on the dampers causing it to creak.For my use i dont need a race set up.Its mainly for road use and the monthly Tunnel runs,where a little bit of performance is needed.Could i do the job myself with some expert advice over the phone regarding settings? Edited by Jonnyw on Thursday 28th December 14:42
Yes,he knows the settings for the car and will provide them preset with the right springs for what you do. It isn't a difficult job if you have the room and ability to lift both sides at the same time to get the weight off the anti-roll bar etc.
Each car does sit slightly differently and you may neeed to fettle them a little but as long as you have the right tool to twist the springs which you can get from any racing parts supplier you can get it where it sits best. The previous advice on corner weighting is good council but you can get it to something sensible on your own flat driveway.
The ride height is also dependant on your rolling road circumference of the wheel size, the Gazman will give you the right place to start.
Each car does sit slightly differently and you may neeed to fettle them a little but as long as you have the right tool to twist the springs which you can get from any racing parts supplier you can get it where it sits best. The previous advice on corner weighting is good council but you can get it to something sensible on your own flat driveway.
The ride height is also dependant on your rolling road circumference of the wheel size, the Gazman will give you the right place to start.
We will be corner weighting Jonny's car but we rarely bother with road cars because of the variations in fuel, passengers or even luggage for the cruisers.
Setting up dampers and ride heights is not difficult if you are prepared to spend time on it but you will never get the full benefit until you get a geo set-up that suits your style of driving.
I run Jonnys car quite agressive on the geo and that wouldn't suit everybody, mind you I do like a pointy car for the road myself and the TVR recomended geo is a bit safe and understeery for my taste, still its about "different strokes for different folks" and talking to the experts to ensure you get what you need.
Setting up dampers and ride heights is not difficult if you are prepared to spend time on it but you will never get the full benefit until you get a geo set-up that suits your style of driving.
I run Jonnys car quite agressive on the geo and that wouldn't suit everybody, mind you I do like a pointy car for the road myself and the TVR recomended geo is a bit safe and understeery for my taste, still its about "different strokes for different folks" and talking to the experts to ensure you get what you need.
trackcar said:
Have you bought the bacchus180 car or is this a new build? if a new build that would mean 3 race prepped cerbies 
Is Bacchus180 going to race his car too?? The last I heard it was just sitting in a workshop somewhere unused (APM?)
Any race prepped Cerb's fighting it out in the challenge is fantastic, to have two or more will be even better still, I think im going to have to start going to these races now!!
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