remote filter head
remote filter head
Author
Discussion

edhorne

Original Poster:

423 posts

301 months

Monday 1st January 2007
quotequote all
Happy New Year everyone

I think my remote oil filter head has a crack in it. I am going to get a new one with an oil temp takeoff.

Can anybody tell me whether it flows "Right to Left" or "Left to Right" and also what size the pipe fittings are? 1/2 or 5/8 BSP?

I will be fitting an oil thermostat aswell I think. Will post some pictures when I'm done.

Hope you all had a good one last night!!

Cheers

Ed

longbow

1,610 posts

252 months

Tuesday 2nd January 2007
quotequote all
It flows front the front of the car to the back, i.e from the oil cooler to the back of the engine, so this makes it left to right if you look at it from the mounting plate side. The adaptors are possibly 1/2" BSP, not quite sure from memory. I put my thermostat across the oil lines that go to/from the cooler, under the engine bay front panel on the passenger side


Edited by longbow on Tuesday 2nd January 10:58

simonsparrow

1,563 posts

279 months

Tuesday 2nd January 2007
quotequote all
Depending on how much of a rush you're in, I have a spare one, as I've got an aftermarket one on mine now (for the oil temp take off).

edhorne

Original Poster:

423 posts

301 months

Tuesday 2nd January 2007
quotequote all
Thanks Simon

I want to fit an oil temp takeoff aswell.

Which one did you buy? Was it a Mocal?

Cheers

Ed

edhorne

Original Poster:

423 posts

301 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice Longbow.

I would have thought it flowed from the back of the engine, through the filter, then the cooler and then back into the sump. ie from the rear of the car to the front. Otherwise the oil would be sucked from the sump and through the filter. However I bow to your experience

Does this mean the connection at the rear of the sump is the oil pickup for the engine? I would have thought there would be a pickup inside the sump itself.

Will let you all know how it goes.

Ed

edhorne

Original Poster:

423 posts

301 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
Have just read the service bulletin about priming the oil system. This would suggest that the filter head flows from the front of the car to the back.

Cheers

Ed

simonsparrow

1,563 posts

279 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
Hi,

I think the flow rate is from the front to the back, its not what you'd expect anyway. Yes, I'm pretty sure I just used a Mocal one for fitting the temperature sender.

longbow

1,610 posts

252 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
Hi Ed, the oil system on the AJP is a little unusual. The oil pickup is in the sump next to the oil pump, which is on the opposite side of the engine. It is delivered under pressure from here through the block to a take-off on the other side, its the lower one nearer the front. From here it goes to the oil cooler, and then back to the filter, and finally into the block (the higher rearmost one). From here it is channelled between the upper and lower part of the engine (if you ever see a short block the oil feeds for the heads are really small, about the size of a ball point pen tip, and they run up the front of the block). If you're going to work on your oil system plumbing, I highly recommend removing and flushing the oil cooler, as when mine came out it was badly clogged with sludge (accumulated over many years). We do this on our armoured vehicles, land rovers and tanks, as they do tend to clog up after a while.

edhorne

Original Poster:

423 posts

301 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
Thanks Longbow

Sounds like good advice.

How long do you think I can leave the pipes undone before the oil drains from the pump and it needs priming?

Cheers

Ed

longbow

1,610 posts

252 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
It may not be necessary, but I prime my engine after every oil change just for total peace of mind. See this thread www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=291552&f=6&h=0&hw=drill+pump and also a pic here http://rides.webshots.com/photo/26038

You can get the drill pump from machine mart for £15 and the hose to match also. Luckily this fits perfectly over the adapter outlets, and you can use hose clips to give a pressure tight seal. The proceedure is in the service bulletins on the Cerb owners cd and is quite straight forward. When I do this you can actually see the pressure gauge rise to about 25psi with the drill on, but be warned it puts a lot of strain on the drill, mine was smoking after a few seconds so go easy!!!

Oh, and here's a pic of my mocal filter head with temp sender plumbed in http://rides.webshots.com/photo/24272 you can never have enough pictures!!!

Edited by longbow on Wednesday 3rd January 19:05



Edited by longbow on Wednesday 3rd January 19:55

edhorne

Original Poster:

423 posts

301 months

Friday 26th January 2007
quotequote all
Update:

Got back from Vegas (baby!) today and whipped over to www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk and purchased a Mocal RFH1B remote filter head. The staff were friendly and knowledgeable.

It flows right to left, has 1/2 BSP threads and a 5/8 UNF thread to accomodate a temperature sender.

The OE pipes are 5/8 BSP thread, so I purchased two male to male 5/8 to 1/2 BSP adaptors aswell as a 5/8 UNF blanking plug for the sender takeoff as I have not sorted the temp gauge yet.

Whilst all the pipework went on no probs the new filter head is not as deep as the old one. I had to make up a spacer (out of ally of course...) to space the filter away from the chassis tube.



Next job is the gauge from www.speedycables.co.uk to match the other ones.

Cheers

Ed




Edited by edhorne on Friday 26th January 21:32