Big Fuse change - new location
Discussion
I'm planning a "big fuse" change.
I've identified it as a major contributor to me having to hold the "start" button for up to a couple of minutes to get the car to start some times.
I remember the picture on here from some months back with it relocated to the front of the engine using a fuse normally used in ICE installations.
This seems like the most likely route I'll take but I'm just wondering if anyone has come up with any other good accessible locations for it?
Also, how far will the existing cable reach without having to replace / extend it?
I've identified it as a major contributor to me having to hold the "start" button for up to a couple of minutes to get the car to start some times.
I remember the picture on here from some months back with it relocated to the front of the engine using a fuse normally used in ICE installations.
This seems like the most likely route I'll take but I'm just wondering if anyone has come up with any other good accessible locations for it?
Also, how far will the existing cable reach without having to replace / extend it?
I moved mine to the bulkhead below the washer hose and bonnet catch stays. I put rivnuts into the black fibreglass panel that covers the wiper drive etc
Not sure if the existing leads would reach. I replaced the 3 positive cables and the earth whilst I was doing it. I got a mega fuse holder from Vehicle Wiring Products. The bolts are 8mm IIRC and the fuse has fairly thick copper contacts.
Access is easy - just remove the inner bonnet panel. I preferred it to the aircon mounting. I didn't like the idea of running the cables across the top of the engine. And I didn't especially want to put the fuse on show. But the mega fuse doesn't look the business like the conversion you refer to - its a plain functional black plastic box - best kept hidden
Not sure if the existing leads would reach. I replaced the 3 positive cables and the earth whilst I was doing it. I got a mega fuse holder from Vehicle Wiring Products. The bolts are 8mm IIRC and the fuse has fairly thick copper contacts.
Access is easy - just remove the inner bonnet panel. I preferred it to the aircon mounting. I didn't like the idea of running the cables across the top of the engine. And I didn't especially want to put the fuse on show. But the mega fuse doesn't look the business like the conversion you refer to - its a plain functional black plastic box - best kept hidden
mikesr said:
I preferred it to the aircon mounting. I didn't like the idea of running the cables across the top of the engine.
Yeah, I'm worried about that too.
I can't remember who posted the picture or the exact thread it was in but perhaps they might see this and let us know if the insulation on the cables is holding up ok on top of the engine.
JJ, that fuse is either working or its not. It won't go high-resistance, it might just partially fracture due to vibration in which case you just replace it.
The only way the 'big fuse' can go high resistance is if the terminals get corroded, in which case you just remove the cables, clean the contacts and replace the nuts.
Its unlikely to be a cause of your starting issue though, as the starter is connected to the battery all the time without going via the fuse. If there is corrosion in its holder battery charging may be an issue though in which case you'll have noticed other symptoms.
For a test, just short it out, bolt the input to the output cables, and see if your starting issue is gone.
Its actually debateable whether ts even needed; All it does is protect the alternator from a short circuit happening between the alternator, the starter and the battery. And thats extremely unlikely unless the heat shield falls on the starter.
Joolz at TCS told me in all his years he's never seen that happen, but he has seen the fuse fracture for no reason other than vibration many times.
Andy.
The only way the 'big fuse' can go high resistance is if the terminals get corroded, in which case you just remove the cables, clean the contacts and replace the nuts.
Its unlikely to be a cause of your starting issue though, as the starter is connected to the battery all the time without going via the fuse. If there is corrosion in its holder battery charging may be an issue though in which case you'll have noticed other symptoms.
For a test, just short it out, bolt the input to the output cables, and see if your starting issue is gone.
Its actually debateable whether ts even needed; All it does is protect the alternator from a short circuit happening between the alternator, the starter and the battery. And thats extremely unlikely unless the heat shield falls on the starter.
Joolz at TCS told me in all his years he's never seen that happen, but he has seen the fuse fracture for no reason other than vibration many times.
Andy.
Edited by alinton on Sunday 14th January 14:03
[quote=ireland]
I remember the picture on here from some months back with it relocated to the front of the engine using a fuse normally used in ICE installations./quote]
I think this is the thread you remember www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=309874&f=6&h=0&hw=BIG+FUSE but the pics seem to have been archived or removed.
I remember the picture on here from some months back with it relocated to the front of the engine using a fuse normally used in ICE installations./quote]
I think this is the thread you remember www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=309874&f=6&h=0&hw=BIG+FUSE but the pics seem to have been archived or removed.
2DOGS said:
[quote=ireland]
I remember the picture on here from some months back with it relocated to the front of the engine using a fuse normally used in ICE installations./quote]
I think this is the thread you remember www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=309874&f=6&h=0&hw=BIG+FUSE but the pics seem to have been archived or removed.
I remember the picture on here from some months back with it relocated to the front of the engine using a fuse normally used in ICE installations./quote]
I think this is the thread you remember www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=309874&f=6&h=0&hw=BIG+FUSE but the pics seem to have been archived or removed.
Looking there I do see the pics, as hosted by uncle-dave. Maybe he just doesn't like you
alinton said:
JJ, that fuse is either working or its not. It won't go high-resistance, it might just partially fracture due to vibration in which case you just replace it.
The only way the 'big fuse' can go high resistance is if the terminals get corroded, in which case you just remove the cables, clean the contacts and replace the nuts.
Its unlikely to be a cause of your starting issue though, as the starter is connected to the battery all the time without going via the fuse. If there is corrosion in its holder battery charging may be an issue though in which case you'll have noticed other symptoms.
For a test, just short it out, bolt the input to the output cables, and see if your starting issue is gone.
Its actually debateable whether ts even needed; All it does is protect the alternator from a short circuit happening between the alternator, the starter and the battery. And thats extremely unlikely unless the heat shield falls on the starter.
Joolz at TCS told me in all his years he's never seen that happen, but he has seen the fuse fracture for no reason other than vibration many times.
Andy.
The only way the 'big fuse' can go high resistance is if the terminals get corroded, in which case you just remove the cables, clean the contacts and replace the nuts.
Its unlikely to be a cause of your starting issue though, as the starter is connected to the battery all the time without going via the fuse. If there is corrosion in its holder battery charging may be an issue though in which case you'll have noticed other symptoms.
For a test, just short it out, bolt the input to the output cables, and see if your starting issue is gone.
Its actually debateable whether ts even needed; All it does is protect the alternator from a short circuit happening between the alternator, the starter and the battery. And thats extremely unlikely unless the heat shield falls on the starter.
Joolz at TCS told me in all his years he's never seen that happen, but he has seen the fuse fracture for no reason other than vibration many times.
Andy.
Perhaps it's just coincidence but on the occassions the car has been slow to start and I've drenched the big fuse in contact cleaner (Servisol 10) the problem disappeared immediately.
I know the idea of the resistance changing across the fuse defies logic and a good clean will probably get me sorted but it's such a pig to get at it I was going to move it to a more accessible location, and replace fuse and holder at the same time.
whatever said:
2DOGS said:
[quote=ireland]
I remember the picture on here from some months back with it relocated to the front of the engine using a fuse normally used in ICE installations./quote]
I think this is the thread you remember www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=309874&f=6&h=0&hw=BIG+FUSE but the pics seem to have been archived or removed.
I remember the picture on here from some months back with it relocated to the front of the engine using a fuse normally used in ICE installations./quote]
I think this is the thread you remember www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=309874&f=6&h=0&hw=BIG+FUSE but the pics seem to have been archived or removed.
Looking there I do see the pics, as hosted by uncle-dave. Maybe he just doesn't like you
that's my car now gang, just to let you the the fuse, and installation is still fine. A Very good idea.
alinton said:
JJ, that fuse is either working or its not. It won't go high-resistance, it might just partially fracture due to vibration in which case you just replace it.
The only way the 'big fuse' can go high resistance is if the terminals get corroded, in which case you just remove the cables, clean the contacts and replace the nuts.
The only way the 'big fuse' can go high resistance is if the terminals get corroded, in which case you just remove the cables, clean the contacts and replace the nuts.
Mine went high resistance with the fuse cracked by one terminal but still making contact. I had all the classic symptoms (from a search) of slow/non existant wipers & haywire tacho. The starter turned over slower as well.
I stuck a multimeter across, and instead of reading zero ohms it read a few. I didn't spot the cracked fuse until I took it out in two bits.
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