Fitting a clutch
Discussion
Still no joy, says pictures cant be loaded then asks to carry on with conversion but then fails.
I've had a new style clutch fitted but since then i now have a weird missfire kind of running, ticks over lovely but go to pull away and all hell breaks out like its only firing on half the cylinders.
I've had a new style clutch fitted but since then i now have a weird missfire kind of running, ticks over lovely but go to pull away and all hell breaks out like its only firing on half the cylinders.
REMOVE CLUTCH (without pics)
1. Remove chassis cradle / exhaust and heatshield.
2. Tie a piece of rope, or similar, across chassis beneath end of propshaft. Undo propshaft from diff. And rest it on the support. (This will keep the prop in a position so you don't have to remove it from the Gearbox and lose the gearbox oil)
3. Undo the gearbox support bracket. 4 bolts and 2 small heat shields. (17mm)
4. Using a jack and length of wood, raise the gearbox and remove the bracket.
5. Now carefully lower the box, and undo the 4 (13mm) bolts that hold the gearstick to gearbox. It might then help to tie gearstick up and out of the way. (I tied a piece of string from the gear knob to the rear view mirror)
6. Mark up and remove the lambda sensors (17mm) and disconnect the reverse switch.
7. Undo the 4 Allen bolts (10mm) holding the gearbox to bellhousing.
8. Pull the gearbox away from the bellhousing and rest it on the exhausts. Use the jack and length of wood under the gearbox, to take the strain off the exhausts. (Below Left) Getting someone to put their foot on the clutch pedal will make it easier to manoeuvre the box away from the bellhousing.
9. Remove the two hydraulic pipes attached to bellhousing, be ready to catch the clutch fluid that drains from the pipes. (Above right)
10. Disconnect the battery and remove the starter motor. (It’s a good idea to open windows and boot before disconnecting the battery)
11. Undo the 5 Allen bolts (8mm) and remove bellhousing from engine.
12. Undo the 6 Allen bolts and remove clutch from flywheel.
REFIT NEW CLUTCH
1. Refit clutch assembly to flywheel. Making sure flywheel and clutch plates are kept clean. Tighten bolts progressively and evenly. A clutch alignment tool will be helpful, but if not available try to get the plates lined up and as even as possible. (25 FT LBS)
2. Refit bellhousing. (50 FT LBS)
3. Refit hydraulic clutch pipes, bleed clutch, and check for leaks and operation of slave cylinder.
4. Refit starter motor, and reconnect battery.
5. Refit the gearbox to the bellhousing. (50 FT LBS) This can be very tricky as there is very little clearance between the manifolds. Getting someone to put their foot on the clutch at this point can help greatly, as it frees up the clutch plates and gives a bit more flexibility moving the gearbox.
6. Reconnect reverse switch and lambda sensors. (Make sure the Lambda’s go back on the correct manifold) Fit the Lambda sensors finger tight, and then a further 180 degrees.
7. Refit gearstick. But before you do, there is a nylon cup that sits in a recess in the gearbox where the gearstick locates, check that this is still in place. If it has fallen out it could prevent the gearstick from moving properly.
8. Before refitting gearbox bracket raise the gearbox to the correct position and check operation of clutch and gearstick as best as possible. If all good then refit gearbox bracket and propshaft. (check manifold to chassis clearance, too close and it may cause a vibration when driving)
9. Refit heat shield, exhaust and chassis cradle.
Now go and drive your car. . . . . . . Mad Mark.
1. Remove chassis cradle / exhaust and heatshield.
2. Tie a piece of rope, or similar, across chassis beneath end of propshaft. Undo propshaft from diff. And rest it on the support. (This will keep the prop in a position so you don't have to remove it from the Gearbox and lose the gearbox oil)
3. Undo the gearbox support bracket. 4 bolts and 2 small heat shields. (17mm)
4. Using a jack and length of wood, raise the gearbox and remove the bracket.
5. Now carefully lower the box, and undo the 4 (13mm) bolts that hold the gearstick to gearbox. It might then help to tie gearstick up and out of the way. (I tied a piece of string from the gear knob to the rear view mirror)
6. Mark up and remove the lambda sensors (17mm) and disconnect the reverse switch.
7. Undo the 4 Allen bolts (10mm) holding the gearbox to bellhousing.
8. Pull the gearbox away from the bellhousing and rest it on the exhausts. Use the jack and length of wood under the gearbox, to take the strain off the exhausts. (Below Left) Getting someone to put their foot on the clutch pedal will make it easier to manoeuvre the box away from the bellhousing.
9. Remove the two hydraulic pipes attached to bellhousing, be ready to catch the clutch fluid that drains from the pipes. (Above right)
10. Disconnect the battery and remove the starter motor. (It’s a good idea to open windows and boot before disconnecting the battery)
11. Undo the 5 Allen bolts (8mm) and remove bellhousing from engine.
12. Undo the 6 Allen bolts and remove clutch from flywheel.
REFIT NEW CLUTCH
1. Refit clutch assembly to flywheel. Making sure flywheel and clutch plates are kept clean. Tighten bolts progressively and evenly. A clutch alignment tool will be helpful, but if not available try to get the plates lined up and as even as possible. (25 FT LBS)
2. Refit bellhousing. (50 FT LBS)
3. Refit hydraulic clutch pipes, bleed clutch, and check for leaks and operation of slave cylinder.
4. Refit starter motor, and reconnect battery.
5. Refit the gearbox to the bellhousing. (50 FT LBS) This can be very tricky as there is very little clearance between the manifolds. Getting someone to put their foot on the clutch at this point can help greatly, as it frees up the clutch plates and gives a bit more flexibility moving the gearbox.
6. Reconnect reverse switch and lambda sensors. (Make sure the Lambda’s go back on the correct manifold) Fit the Lambda sensors finger tight, and then a further 180 degrees.
7. Refit gearstick. But before you do, there is a nylon cup that sits in a recess in the gearbox where the gearstick locates, check that this is still in place. If it has fallen out it could prevent the gearstick from moving properly.
8. Before refitting gearbox bracket raise the gearbox to the correct position and check operation of clutch and gearstick as best as possible. If all good then refit gearbox bracket and propshaft. (check manifold to chassis clearance, too close and it may cause a vibration when driving)
9. Refit heat shield, exhaust and chassis cradle.
Now go and drive your car. . . . . . . Mad Mark.
sonnylad said:
I've had a new style clutch fitted but since then i now have a weird missfire kind of running, ticks over lovely but go to pull away and all hell breaks out like its only firing on half the cylinders.
The only think I can think of that would cause this, Linking it to replacing the clutch, is possible damage to Lambda sensors. Not sure what would happen if they were fitted the wrong way round.
Other than that I cant see it being related to changing the clutch, maybe just coincidence??
(you could always try downloading my guide on another pc and printing it off, 3 pages I think!)
Thanks Gazzab for posting the guide.
if its not pulling very well under 3k revs but then goes well over that then it'l be the lambda sensors, plug the car into a laptop and see what the software says. If theve been switched round then one bank will run rich and the other lean, the richer/leaner each one gets the lambdas will try and correct it and keep getting worse
Ballsy said:
If theve been switched round then one bank will run rich and the other lean, the richer/leaner each one gets the lambdas will try and correct it and keep getting worse
sounds like the problem as when i put foot down hard it back fires then appears to run a bit better but not a lot, still strange it ticks over so good. Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff