Engine cutting out - HELP please
Engine cutting out - HELP please
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mars

Original Poster:

10,115 posts

243 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
TVR_Edd has a problem with his 4.5 Cerb. He's on his way through France and sent me this email from his Blackberry:

"Got a problem with the car. An hour and a half into the journey the car cut out on motorway. All electrics went off. I pressed the black button and it all came back on. It has done this about 10 times on the way down at different speeds and always comes back on when I press the black button."

Anyone got any clues I can email to him please?

Ireland

3,517 posts

243 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
A guess ..... immobiliser???

mars

Original Poster:

10,115 posts

243 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
Mmm, that's a good one. I've already advised the following:

"Check all the connectors of the boxes on top of the fuel tank, and the relays and fuses in the fuse box. Check the connector on the ECU and (if you can get to them) check the connectors to the red and black buttons. Check the connectors of all the wires you can see in the engine bay."

I'll send that advice too. Thanks.

Cyclone1

2,614 posts

275 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
Long shot but with all electrics going off I am not sure - 100Amp fuseconfused

Jules.

mars

Original Poster:

10,115 posts

243 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
Another good one that I'll send immediately. Thanks.

mars

Original Poster:

10,115 posts

243 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
Incidentally, where exactly is the 10 amp fuse? I haven't begun to look for it yet on mine.

BLUETHUNDER

7,881 posts

289 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
I would suspect this as well.It happened to me a few times.Replaced the fuse as it had gone green and cleaned the connections up.All was well again.

Cyclone1

2,614 posts

275 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
mars said:
Incidentally, where exactly is the 10 amp fuse? I haven't begun to look for it yet on mine.


www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=312307&f=6&h=0

Jules.

Cyclone1

2,614 posts

275 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
mars said:
Incidentally, where exactly is the 10 amp fuse? I haven't begun to look for it yet on mine.


How is the Beast?

Have you managed to sort the Alternator yet?

Jules.

malman

2,258 posts

288 months

Sunday 1st April 2007
quotequote all
check the key switch under the stereo too

mars

Original Poster:

10,115 posts

243 months

Monday 2nd April 2007
quotequote all
Thanks all. I had to go off-line shortly after my last post but I'll send this info to Edd now.




The Beast is still languishing in the garage. We've had a few problems to overcome at work during the weekends plus a series of illnesses in the family (still on-going) and some scheduled work on the house so my weekends have been non-existent for about a month. I have this coming weekend to get past (visitors from Poland) then it's all "Cerb time".

I'm starting with the alternator and some anti-squeal pads for the rear brakes (during the fitting of which, I'll check out the tyre rubbing on the wheelarch on the driver's side), a replacement wiper motor self-park switch and the new alloy dash panels (all in my possession). Then I'll move onto bigger things like trying to buy another engine to play with and removing the Emerald converter loom (I prefer to wire it direct to reduce the potential for failure. I already have a couple of spare connectors). I'll also address the fact that the fuse box is loose in its cubby hole, and probably replace the relay to the headlights as it may be that at fault rather than its lack of firm seating as I previously thought (headlights flicker sometimes).

In removing the engine-bay panels to get at various parts for the alternator, I had a look at the chassis and whilst the powdercoating is largely useless (flakes off) the metal is absolutely superb. There's a little surface rust but nothing deep. You can get at the welds/joins and see that all the joints are perfectly integral and there has been no deep penetration of the chassis so far. I'll spend some time in the engine bay and under the car with some POR15 which ought to see the chassis well protected for some time to come. I had planned to do a body-off restoration but it doesn't seem to need it, which is nice. I get to play with it for longer without worrying about it.

I've loosened the alternator and by moving it to the fore I could see that in the V of the engine there appears to be some oil pooled so once the alternator's off I'll clean it up and check where it's coming from. I suspect one or both of the cam covers which looks a fairly trivial thing to replace if that's what it is. There was a little oil pooled in one of the airboxes too, so it may be simply a case of slight overfilling that caused it. The outlet from the engine to the airboxes may have simply seen a higher "head" of oil near to it and with the partial vacuum caused in the airboxes when under full pelt, it would have sucked a little out. Nothing really to worry about. I'll just keep an eye on it.


It's in superb condition for a 9 year old car. Far better than many of the others I looked at.

Edited by mars on Monday 2nd April 10:27

whatever

2,174 posts

299 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2007
quotequote all
Probably not a great deal of help now, but for the record, the ribbon connector under the steering wheel is somewhat flimsy, and is easily pulled out a bit. In fact, calling it a "connector" is a bit generous. Anyway, if it's eassing its way out (through vibration and what-not) it can act as if the red button has been pressed. You'll coast to a stop and then restart and it'll be fine.

Also, check the connections behind the dash by the passenger's knees (i.e. not feet), as that can cut power to the ecu too.