What is going on??
Discussion
Please bear with me on this one, it’s a bit of a shaggy dog story…….
A fair while back, my car has experiencing intermittent electrical faults/MIL light/various faults logged in ECU including lambda. This was eventually traced to the connector between the engine harness and the ecu under the expansion tank as water was getting in. To solve this problem, I ‘relocated’ the offending connection to the passenger footwell inside the car.
Everything faby daby dozy for a few weeks and then Mr MIL light re-appears. Now showing a constant 1.8v on lambda 2. Figure the lambda has died, so replaced and hey presto, everything is back to normal. Car goes in for service, and comes back running nicely. For a few weeks. Then it rains a lot and MIL light again. Balls.
Not a constant 1.8v, but a high reading on lambda 2 and a bad AFR and logged fault. Figure maybe I didn’t REALLY seal the rather big hole I made under the expansion tank to relocate the connector and water is still getting in.
Also notice that the red wire connecting to lambda 2 has a tiny bit of damage to the sheath as shown badly here.
Lots of WD40 and hair dryer action later, and I am now getting a constant 1.8v on lambda 1!!!! And a steady 0.3v on lambda 2 when the fuel pump is on (i.e. when a voltage is being sent to the sensor) but the engine not running. They should both read 0v until the engine is running right?
So, do I just replace the entire engine wiring harness, as there seems to be no way to repair the damage to the red wire? But how can this be causing the fault on lambda 1?
What do I do?
I doubt anyone has the stamina to have read this far, but any ideas before I just lob a petrol bomb at the damn thing!!!
A fair while back, my car has experiencing intermittent electrical faults/MIL light/various faults logged in ECU including lambda. This was eventually traced to the connector between the engine harness and the ecu under the expansion tank as water was getting in. To solve this problem, I ‘relocated’ the offending connection to the passenger footwell inside the car.
Everything faby daby dozy for a few weeks and then Mr MIL light re-appears. Now showing a constant 1.8v on lambda 2. Figure the lambda has died, so replaced and hey presto, everything is back to normal. Car goes in for service, and comes back running nicely. For a few weeks. Then it rains a lot and MIL light again. Balls.
Not a constant 1.8v, but a high reading on lambda 2 and a bad AFR and logged fault. Figure maybe I didn’t REALLY seal the rather big hole I made under the expansion tank to relocate the connector and water is still getting in.
Also notice that the red wire connecting to lambda 2 has a tiny bit of damage to the sheath as shown badly here.
Lots of WD40 and hair dryer action later, and I am now getting a constant 1.8v on lambda 1!!!! And a steady 0.3v on lambda 2 when the fuel pump is on (i.e. when a voltage is being sent to the sensor) but the engine not running. They should both read 0v until the engine is running right?
So, do I just replace the entire engine wiring harness, as there seems to be no way to repair the damage to the red wire? But how can this be causing the fault on lambda 1?
What do I do?
I doubt anyone has the stamina to have read this far, but any ideas before I just lob a petrol bomb at the damn thing!!!
Duke Thrust said:
I had this problem, turned out to be water running down the loom and into the ECU connector. Have a look in the passenger footwell and pull the connector off the ECU.
5 minutes with a hair dryer and the ECU connector turned to the floor and hey presto, all sorted.
5 minutes with a hair dryer and the ECU connector turned to the floor and hey presto, all sorted.
Have checked, re-checked dried and cleaned the ecu connector, doesn't seem to be any water or bad connections there.
OK. So car been outside for 3 days - not started. Pouring rain, sun, showers etc.
Ignition on, blip of the fob - fuel pump primed readings are.
battery 12.16 volts - recently replaced.
lambdas 1 and 2 0.00v - recently replaced both.
ignition 28.0
Throttlepots 14.8 1 / 16.9 2 - recently adjusted as equal out when engine warm.
Adaptives both 0.4.
Injector 1 3 5 7 3.7 - Injector 2 4 6 8 4.0
Barometric 1030 flicking 1025
Have you unplugged the ECU waited 1 minute and then plugged back in to see if readings are different?
Have you reset your fault codes?
MB
Ignition on, blip of the fob - fuel pump primed readings are.
battery 12.16 volts - recently replaced.
lambdas 1 and 2 0.00v - recently replaced both.
ignition 28.0
Throttlepots 14.8 1 / 16.9 2 - recently adjusted as equal out when engine warm.
Adaptives both 0.4.
Injector 1 3 5 7 3.7 - Injector 2 4 6 8 4.0
Barometric 1030 flicking 1025
Have you unplugged the ECU waited 1 minute and then plugged back in to see if readings are different?
Have you reset your fault codes?
MB
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