Air Con, the easy things to check.
Discussion
Right, trying to sort my A/C before Le Mans. What things have people checked before to ensure it functions?
Gas, it 's currently holding some pressure so I assume it's not leaking.
Belt, replaced with a new one.
Clutch, checked with a 12v feed from battery and works fine.
Dash button, functions and illuminates the bulb but doesn't engage the clutch at the moment (engine not running)
What other items have people checked and or found problems with?
Gas, it 's currently holding some pressure so I assume it's not leaking.
Belt, replaced with a new one.
Clutch, checked with a 12v feed from battery and works fine.
Dash button, functions and illuminates the bulb but doesn't engage the clutch at the moment (engine not running)
What other items have people checked and or found problems with?
You say it is holding some charge. Have you had it regassed and checked? If the the amount of coolant in it isn't correct, then it wont work. You need to be sure that you have it is correctly gassed before you start looking for other faults.
If it is correctly gassed, then another thing that can stop it working is the drier (??) located in the nearside front of the car, remove the rectangular access panel in the front wheel arch. Check and clean all the electrical all the connections to it, they may be corroded.
If it is correctly gassed, then another thing that can stop it working is the drier (??) located in the nearside front of the car, remove the rectangular access panel in the front wheel arch. Check and clean all the electrical all the connections to it, they may be corroded.
Edited by JensenA on Wednesday 30th May 08:59
I'm in the process of sorting my air con out for the trip to Le Mans as well (in my T350c). I asked a while back what a part was in my passenger foot well and was pointed in the direction of the Cerbera forum and immediately saw this thread. (The part I was asking about is the one pictured below)
After months of having no internal fans at all due to my heater amplifier connector shorting out and needing me to cut it off (heater amplifier is the little circuit board with two large capacitors on which controls the fans and air con etc.). I've now fixed this (soldering iron job as I couldn't get a new connector with new pins). I now have fans AND air con
I tested the air con this evening and it seems to be ok but I did notice the compressor cut in and out quite frequently when the air wasn't actually that cold (not the warmest of days today so not sure if the car felt it was cold enough??). This was while the car was stationary and idling if that makes any difference. I want to make sure my air con is working as close to being 100% effective as possible.
I've been thinking about turning this switch pictured below which I believe is the rheostat for the air con? I can hear it clicking (relay clicking) in and out and I'm guessing this is cutting the compressor off when it gets cold enough? Is it worth turning this slightly as things don't seem to be getting that cold? Also I’m not sure if I need a re-gas, when can you tell you need this? Can any car air con place do it for you or do I have to go to a TVR garage?
After months of having no internal fans at all due to my heater amplifier connector shorting out and needing me to cut it off (heater amplifier is the little circuit board with two large capacitors on which controls the fans and air con etc.). I've now fixed this (soldering iron job as I couldn't get a new connector with new pins). I now have fans AND air con
I tested the air con this evening and it seems to be ok but I did notice the compressor cut in and out quite frequently when the air wasn't actually that cold (not the warmest of days today so not sure if the car felt it was cold enough??). This was while the car was stationary and idling if that makes any difference. I want to make sure my air con is working as close to being 100% effective as possible.
I've been thinking about turning this switch pictured below which I believe is the rheostat for the air con? I can hear it clicking (relay clicking) in and out and I'm guessing this is cutting the compressor off when it gets cold enough? Is it worth turning this slightly as things don't seem to be getting that cold? Also I’m not sure if I need a re-gas, when can you tell you need this? Can any car air con place do it for you or do I have to go to a TVR garage?
NickT said:
This was while the car was stationary and idling if that makes any difference.
A little, but not a significant amount.You're going to need it to work while you are stopped in traffic so it will have to work like this.
NickT said:
I've been thinking about turning this switch pictured below which I believe is the rheostat for the air con? I can hear it clicking (relay clicking) in and out and I'm guessing this is cutting the compressor off when it gets cold enough? Is it worth turning this slightly as things don't seem to be getting that cold?
It's a mechanical thermostat.The click you hear is the points in it opening / closing.
Clockwise = Colder.
NickT said:
Can any car air con place do it for you or do I have to go to a TVR garage?
Any decent car air con place can do it.Also any decent refrigeration engineer will be able to sort you out.
Many thanks for the confirmation... I always like someone to confirm before I start playing with things in the TVR
I'll try out adjusting the switch tonight. If it doesn't get cold enough I'll probably speak to my local garage about air con places as TVR Power where I normally go is far too far away.
I'll try out adjusting the switch tonight. If it doesn't get cold enough I'll probably speak to my local garage about air con places as TVR Power where I normally go is far too far away.
Well I turned it and it hasn't made much difference 
I checked the dash display for temps (not seen the dash on a Cerb but I'm guessing you don't have the same display showing all of the temps?? It is even hidden on the T350 for some reason).
This evening just out of the garage idling for 5 minutes or so and with air con on, temps set to cold and fans on full the cold temp was at about 10 degrees. The water at this point was at 64 degrees, ambient reading at 15 and hot air reading 19. The dash also shows when the compressor is on I think, there are three settings IC, PR and CL (I think, the bottom line can't be seen as my dash screen is going screwy so the L could be an I). These were going on and off initially until the engine heated up and then they constantly showed as being on.
All the temps slowly went up as the engine warmed. I went for a quick drive and the cold temps dropped again but didn't go any lower than 12 degrees at that point. After returning to the garage and leaving the car running again the cold air wouldn't go below 20 degrees. The water at this point was at 80, ambient was showing at 23 and hot air at 28.
So, I think if I was stuck in traffic on a hot day the air would be a little colder than ambient but not by much and when driving around it would go a little colder.
Does this sound like a re-gassing issue? If so can any place that does air con on cars re-gass it for me? I can't see where you would have to do this. It looks like it is below the drivers headlight requiring the mastic to be cut in the wheel arch to gain access....
I would love to have cold air again!!
I checked the dash display for temps (not seen the dash on a Cerb but I'm guessing you don't have the same display showing all of the temps?? It is even hidden on the T350 for some reason).
This evening just out of the garage idling for 5 minutes or so and with air con on, temps set to cold and fans on full the cold temp was at about 10 degrees. The water at this point was at 64 degrees, ambient reading at 15 and hot air reading 19. The dash also shows when the compressor is on I think, there are three settings IC, PR and CL (I think, the bottom line can't be seen as my dash screen is going screwy so the L could be an I). These were going on and off initially until the engine heated up and then they constantly showed as being on.
All the temps slowly went up as the engine warmed. I went for a quick drive and the cold temps dropped again but didn't go any lower than 12 degrees at that point. After returning to the garage and leaving the car running again the cold air wouldn't go below 20 degrees. The water at this point was at 80, ambient was showing at 23 and hot air at 28.
So, I think if I was stuck in traffic on a hot day the air would be a little colder than ambient but not by much and when driving around it would go a little colder.
Does this sound like a re-gassing issue? If so can any place that does air con on cars re-gass it for me? I can't see where you would have to do this. It looks like it is below the drivers headlight requiring the mastic to be cut in the wheel arch to gain access....
I would love to have cold air again!!
Sorry if I've confused any Cerbera owners... just to be clear I have a T350 but came over to the Cerbera forum as you guys had been discussing air con
I'll enquire at my local garage about re-gassing. Worried that the valves etc. are hard to get to for a normal garage used to re-gassing standard cars. All the air con stuff seems to be hidden below the driver side headlight and you need to cut the mastic holding on the large gromit kind of thing in the wheel arch to gain access as well as removing the wheel. I'm thinking it would be best to go to a TVR specialist?
I'll enquire at my local garage about re-gassing. Worried that the valves etc. are hard to get to for a normal garage used to re-gassing standard cars. All the air con stuff seems to be hidden below the driver side headlight and you need to cut the mastic holding on the large gromit kind of thing in the wheel arch to gain access as well as removing the wheel. I'm thinking it would be best to go to a TVR specialist?
The access points are simple to get at.
They are on the side of the compressor, and they only need access to the one on the biggest pipe (the suction).
The Cerb is actually easier than most cars to work on.
I have an R-34 Skyline as well and that's what you call a pig to work on.
As for the Cerb air con, it'll never be as good as a "sensible" car.
Believe me, I've tried to make it good but no joy.
They are on the side of the compressor, and they only need access to the one on the biggest pipe (the suction).
The Cerb is actually easier than most cars to work on.
I have an R-34 Skyline as well and that's what you call a pig to work on.
As for the Cerb air con, it'll never be as good as a "sensible" car.
Believe me, I've tried to make it good but no joy.
NickT said:
Sorry if I've confused any Cerbera owners... just to be clear I have a T350 but came over to the Cerbera forum as you guys had been discussing air con
I'll enquire at my local garage about re-gassing. Worried that the valves etc. are hard to get to for a normal garage used to re-gassing standard cars. All the air con stuff seems to be hidden below the driver side headlight and you need to cut the mastic holding on the large gromit kind of thing in the wheel arch to gain access as well as removing the wheel. I'm thinking it would be best to go to a TVR specialist?
Nick - Take it to any Air Con place, A/C is A/C. it wont be behind the wheel arch, it will be in the engine bay somewhere, and any A/C place will find it.I'll enquire at my local garage about re-gassing. Worried that the valves etc. are hard to get to for a normal garage used to re-gassing standard cars. All the air con stuff seems to be hidden below the driver side headlight and you need to cut the mastic holding on the large gromit kind of thing in the wheel arch to gain access as well as removing the wheel. I'm thinking it would be best to go to a TVR specialist?
Ireland said:
As for the Cerb air con, it'll never be as good as a "sensible" car.
Believe me, I've tried to make it good but no joy.
Mine was excellant last year. In the hot summer weather I could actually have the windows closed with freezing air blowing out.Believe me, I've tried to make it good but no joy.
Not using it over winter has probably killed it again, so I need to get another regassing I think.
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