Tips on fitting oil/water gauge

[jonbarrett]

Any tips for fitting a new water/oil gauge. What is the easiest way to route the temperature sensor through the dash and into the engine bay? I was thinking if tieing a piece of string to the old one as I pull it out and pulling the new one back through.

Also, when I unscrew the old temperature sensor will the cooling system empty out?

[Far Eastender]

You might want to consider a digital dial. I had a Spa one fitted and the readings are far less alarming.

[rpicker]

Hope you get a few more replies as mine reads a fair bit higher temp than it actually is 5-10 deg out.
Ray

[Keithyboy]

rpicker said:

Hope you get a few more replies as mine reads a fair bit higher temp than it actually is 5-10 deg out.Ray

TADTS

[cerbielee]

rpicker said:

Hope you get a few more replies as mine reads a fair bit higher temp than it actually is 5-10 deg out.
Ray

Me too! seems from the history mines always played up! both water and oil! water always 10 deg over! seems both readings stick too! that can be scarey
I would deffo go the digital route, although i like the original dials!

[satman]

jonbarrett said:

Any tips for fitting a new water/oil gauge. What is the easiest way to route the temperature sensor through the dash and into the engine bay? I was thinking if tieing a piece of string to the old one as I pull it out and pulling the new one back through.

Also, when I unscrew the old temperature sensor will the cooling system empty out?

When i removed/replaced mine, i chopped the 'bulb' or capilery end off and left in place till i was ready to connect the new gauge, because you do lose some water, although if quick enough, only about a litre or so...

The easiest way is to remove the 'cowling' over the top of the gauges...you will have to lay upside down in the footwell, with your head up by the pedals to achieve this!! Fiirstly remove the cover under the steering column, usually held in place with a couple of wing nuts and velcro strips and put to one side...Looking up under the dash you will see 2 further wing nuts..undo these and that will allow you to lift the clock cowling off from above.
Working from above you will see 2 small nuts, either 6mm or 8mm IIRC, which holds a bar holding the gauge to the facia, and an oil pipe held in place with a 13mm nut. Remove these along with the illumination bulb.
Under the bonnet you will have to take of the bulhead panel and the cover in front of the engine to get at the point where the capilery goes into the front hose. As i said before , I cut the capilery tube by the calpilary bulb on mine to allow me to remove gauge and keep water in engine. You will find dozens of cable ties along the chassis bars from this point back to the bulkhead which will need cutting. Mine entered the bulkhead via a rubber gromment and a dollop of mastic, which i was able to just pull away quite easily. You will find a couple of cable ties under the bulk head (interior side), which again youll need to do your gymnastic bit in the footwell. Pull tube through bulk head and carefully past the wiring behind the dash, and remove complete with gauge from front of dash fascia.
Fitting is the reverse of above,( I didnt need string to put new gauge back through bulkhead), remembering to cable tie under dash to prevent pedels from catching/chaffing the capilery tube, remember to tighten, but not over tightnen oil pipe tube and refit illumination bulb... some new mastic around the grommet to reseal,(did mine inside and out to be sure).. and a bottle of Radox for your aching back afterwards
Job should take around an hour to hour and half

[jonbarrett]

Thanks everyone, thats Saturday sorted!