Bonnet rattle easy fix!
Bonnet rattle easy fix!
Author
Discussion

jonbarrett

Original Poster:

800 posts

232 months

Friday 27th July 2007
quotequote all
My bonnett rattled badly due to the naff 'plastic pins in metal plates' securing method. I've slipped small domed rubber tap washers over the end of the plastic pins and they fit perfectly in the bonnet plates. Because they are domed they self-centre and compress slightly. Because the plastic pins are still in the centre of the washer there is no danger of the bonnet opening if the washer tore away. Seems to be a cheap simple fix which might be of use to someone.

I have a picture if anyone would like to see it.

Please ignore this message if this is already a common fix.

Byker28i

91,902 posts

247 months

Friday 27th July 2007
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Yup - come on post the picture.

Cooky

4,955 posts

267 months

Friday 27th July 2007
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Nice one, i'd love to finaly stop the bonnet rattle and lift, mine' a bitch over 130 leptons. and a little upsetting for the passengers wink

alinton

965 posts

266 months

Friday 27th July 2007
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Well the metal plates joined to the bonnet should have 10mm rubber grommets in them anyway.

If they've fallen to bits and gone you'll get the rattle.

Remove the two M4 allen-head bolts, slide in new grommet and replace.

Job done.

A.

C3BER

4,714 posts

253 months

Friday 27th July 2007
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Mine lifted at 171 and went pop (bugger) so any method of a better fit is more than welcome. Get those pictures posted up old bean.

longbow

1,610 posts

265 months

Friday 27th July 2007
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The drivers side bonnet rod on mine snapped today passing through 140 leptops. Crap design, going to get steel rods manufactured to cure the problem once and for all!!

C3BER

4,714 posts

253 months

Friday 27th July 2007
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Yep mine went snap, so had to use sticky tape to hold the bonnet down on my other high speed runs and now have a few marks on the paint work.

hugepiece

724 posts

257 months

Saturday 28th July 2007
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ive literally just managed to sort by bonnet after moaning about it for 6 months. I went to LEVEN and bough turned ally replacements for the silly plastic pins on the ends of the dods. They are threaded so i just tapped a thread on the bar and screwed on - bobs yer uncle and the bonnet now locks completely and doesn't rattle! The pins cost me 11quid.........that was the easy job, then I spent an hour and a half replacing the bl00dy wiper park switch!

longbow

1,610 posts

265 months

Saturday 28th July 2007
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I've just checked the Leven site and can't find the pins????? How do I get a pair???

marcus1970

1,217 posts

265 months

Saturday 28th July 2007
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jonbarrett said:
My bonnett rattled badly due to the naff 'plastic pins in metal plates' securing method. I've slipped small domed rubber tap washers over the end of the plastic pins and they fit perfectly in the bonnet plates. Because they are domed they self-centre and compress slightly. Because the plastic pins are still in the centre of the washer there is no danger of the bonnet opening if the washer tore away. Seems to be a cheap simple fix which might be of use to someone.

I have a picture if anyone would like to see it.

Please ignore this message if this is already a common fix.
Post a pic, could be a handy afternoon job for me.

cheers

MB

jonbarrett

Original Poster:

800 posts

232 months

Saturday 28th July 2007
quotequote all
Here is how I did it in pictures.

1) Buy a small domed tap washer (3/8in I think but not sure). Punch, drill or cut the hole in the washer until it is large enough to fit over the end of the plastic rod end.



2) Remove the upper engine cover so you can see the locking mechanism with the bonnet closed. Position the metal plate on the inner wing so the tab on the bonnet is a perefect sliding fit on its outer edge. I did this because the domed washer will place an axial force on the bonnet tab which will bend unless it is supported by the metal wing plate. Also ensure the metal wing plate is positioned so the centre of the domed washer lines up with the centre of the hole on the bonnet tab.



3) Adjust the length of the rod arms so the domed washer is squashed into the hole on the bonnet tab when the knob is turned.



4) Instant fix for me. Took about 15-minutes each side. Time will tell if it lasts. Washers were a few pence. Because the end of the plastic pin is inside the body of the washer, if the washer split and fell out, the bonnet would remain held.

Let me know how you get on. Probably the most difficult job is enlarging the hole in the washer. Luckily, I have some small hole punches. A sharp knife will probably be sufficient.


jonbarrett

Original Poster:

800 posts

232 months

Sunday 29th July 2007
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Back because some members wanted to see the pics.

morebeanz

3,283 posts

266 months

Monday 30th July 2007
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That's very interesting. Does anyone have any pics of the "official" set up with the grommets in?

hugepiece

724 posts

257 months

Monday 30th July 2007
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longbow said:
I've just checked the Leven site and can't find the pins????? How do I get a pair???
they are not on their site, you will need to call them up. I only head about them by looking on another thread. Made a huge difference!

julian64

14,325 posts

284 months

Monday 30th July 2007
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All due respect but I think that fix will give you problems. Nothing has actually gone through the hole in your setup. With the original it might rattle without the grommet, but the pin should extend through the hole to prevent it flying up.

longbow

1,610 posts

265 months

Monday 30th July 2007
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I have just ordered two aluminium locking pins from Leven - the trick to them (apart from being metal!) is that the body is twice as long, and so when/if yours snap, you simply cut the rod down a bit and re-tap a thread on the original bar, and hey presto - jobs a good' un.

jonbarrett

Original Poster:

800 posts

232 months

Monday 30th July 2007
quotequote all
Julian

It's difficult to see from the images but the small diameter shank of the plastic locking pins extend into the bore of the hole in the washer. Thus, as the washer is pushed tight into the large diameter hole in the bonnet plate the pin is positioned correctly.


julian64

14,325 posts

284 months

Monday 30th July 2007
quotequote all
jonbarrett said:
Julian

It's difficult to see from the images but the small diameter shank of the plastic locking pins extend into the bore of the hole in the washer. Thus, as the washer is pushed tight into the large diameter hole in the bonnet plate the pin is positioned correctly.

Oh, right, that makes more sense smile. Btw impressed with the drawing smile

southendpier

6,208 posts

259 months

Monday 30th July 2007
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blinding drawing. :bigsmile:

Can you sketch up how a piece of rubber can repair a window control box?

perleeease.

hehe

jonbarrett

Original Poster:

800 posts

232 months

Monday 30th July 2007
quotequote all
This might work!