best oil for my cerb 4.2 v8
Discussion
hi all
i was just wondering which is the best oil for my 4.2 v8
it says in the manual that after 6k to use mobil 1 0w4
yet i cant seem to find anyone using it on this forum
my car has done 45k its a 98
i have been using mobil 1 0w40 to top up when needed
but now its time for an oil and filter change i was wondering if it is the best oil after all
any advice???
thanks in advance
Dave
i was just wondering which is the best oil for my 4.2 v8
it says in the manual that after 6k to use mobil 1 0w4
yet i cant seem to find anyone using it on this forum
my car has done 45k its a 98
i have been using mobil 1 0w40 to top up when needed
but now its time for an oil and filter change i was wondering if it is the best oil after all
any advice???
thanks in advance
Dave
I'm still using it.
Some people have moved over to a thicker oil as recommended by some garages.
Check with Opie Oils - there's a sticky on the genral forum.
They offer advice based on your typical usage i.e. miles, roads, trackdays, mileage of your car etc.
The thinner the oil, the faster it reaches temperature and hence the quicker it protects. Ok for low mileage general driving. You will need thincker oil for faster continuous speeds such as trackdays and high miles.
Some people have moved over to a thicker oil as recommended by some garages.
Check with Opie Oils - there's a sticky on the genral forum.
They offer advice based on your typical usage i.e. miles, roads, trackdays, mileage of your car etc.
The thinner the oil, the faster it reaches temperature and hence the quicker it protects. Ok for low mileage general driving. You will need thincker oil for faster continuous speeds such as trackdays and high miles.
Usually buy Mobil 1 Motorsport here, 15W/50 I think it is. However last time I bought Halfords own Fully Synth Trackday Oil again 15/50 as couldn't find Mobil 1 and needed to get something, later research suggests it might well be from the same makers and could be an the old Mobil 1 mix anyway.
Used a 0W/40 once and seemed to get through it pretty quick, if however yours is on 0W and not using it too much then see no real reason to change.
Used a 0W/40 once and seemed to get through it pretty quick, if however yours is on 0W and not using it too much then see no real reason to change.
Edited by touching cloth on Friday 31st August 14:09
touching cloth said:
Usually buy Mobil 1 Motorsport here, 15W/50 I think it is. However last time I bought Halfords own Fully Synth Trackday Oil again 15/50 as couldn't find Mobil 1 and needed to get something, later research suggests it might well be from the same makers and could be an the old Mobil 1 mix anyway.
Used a 0W/40 once and seemed to get through it pretty quick, if however yours is on 0W and not using it too much then see no real reason to change.
My running in oil is now starting to break down and the synthetic and 15/50 weight of that halfords motor sport oil is ticking all of my boxes at present Used a 0W/40 once and seemed to get through it pretty quick, if however yours is on 0W and not using it too much then see no real reason to change.
Edited by touching cloth on Friday 31st August 14:09
. Does it maintain the oil pressure better at the higher temperatures 
Don't know about "better" but certainly not noticed any real changes to pressures with the change over, then again I probably only have about 2l in there mixed in at present, will monitor at Brands and Monday when things should have got nice and hot.
Edited by touching cloth on Friday 31st August 19:54
think about the correct weight first, then think about brand, and the base.
personally I chose silkolene pro r - a REAL synthetic oil (there are only a few on the market, most "synthetic" oils are only able to claim that they're fully synthetic due to a legal loophole - for really true synthetic , make sure the synthetic oil you use has an ester base, thats a pretty good indicator!)
for my application (no winter use) i chose a weight of 15w50, which should protect the engine properly. think of oil as being there to protect the engine rather than being there to enhance performance. consider also that its not just how thick/viscous the oil is, its how thick/viscous the oil is at different temperatures. consider what temperature your cars engine is likely to be at when you're starting it up, consider what temperature you expect it to run at normally (and at hottest) and choose an oil whose viscosity/thickness is maintained at the high temps your engine is likely to run at. no point having a thick oil to protect the engine if it thins out like water when it gets hot, understanding the weight numbers etc is important to determine this.
personally I chose silkolene pro r - a REAL synthetic oil (there are only a few on the market, most "synthetic" oils are only able to claim that they're fully synthetic due to a legal loophole - for really true synthetic , make sure the synthetic oil you use has an ester base, thats a pretty good indicator!)
for my application (no winter use) i chose a weight of 15w50, which should protect the engine properly. think of oil as being there to protect the engine rather than being there to enhance performance. consider also that its not just how thick/viscous the oil is, its how thick/viscous the oil is at different temperatures. consider what temperature your cars engine is likely to be at when you're starting it up, consider what temperature you expect it to run at normally (and at hottest) and choose an oil whose viscosity/thickness is maintained at the high temps your engine is likely to run at. no point having a thick oil to protect the engine if it thins out like water when it gets hot, understanding the weight numbers etc is important to determine this.
Me too. Did a lot of research on this over the past few weeks, and I've gone for the Silkolene Pro S 10w50 too, from OpieOils.
I've used the Halfords 5w50 motorsport oil so far and seems fine, but this Silkolene stuff looks unbeatable all-round. The Royal Purple stuff seems just too expensive for what it is.
Having fitted an oil temp gauge and an oil thermostat, my oil temp stabilises at 60 degrees on the move (regardless of speed!!) and reaches no more than 80 degrees when sat in traffic for long periods, so the oil is hardly working hard at all. Without a thermostat, the oil temps in a standard Cerb will be lower, which isn't really a good thing especially in the cold of winter.
On the subject of temps, my coolant also drops to about 65 degrees on the move, again regardless of speed. It goes up to 95 degrees when in traffic, but cycles between 85 deg and 95 on the fans when stationary. I've used 4Life coolant as oppose to an antifreeze/water mix, but I think my thermostat may be stuck open as I don't see why the temps should drop to 60 deg on the move. And the gauge reads within a few degs compared with the ECU reading.
On a completely different subject, will be fitting my new Toyo R888s next week as well as doing the oil change to the Silkolene stuff. Might even do a trackday one of these days!
I've used the Halfords 5w50 motorsport oil so far and seems fine, but this Silkolene stuff looks unbeatable all-round. The Royal Purple stuff seems just too expensive for what it is.
Having fitted an oil temp gauge and an oil thermostat, my oil temp stabilises at 60 degrees on the move (regardless of speed!!) and reaches no more than 80 degrees when sat in traffic for long periods, so the oil is hardly working hard at all. Without a thermostat, the oil temps in a standard Cerb will be lower, which isn't really a good thing especially in the cold of winter.
On the subject of temps, my coolant also drops to about 65 degrees on the move, again regardless of speed. It goes up to 95 degrees when in traffic, but cycles between 85 deg and 95 on the fans when stationary. I've used 4Life coolant as oppose to an antifreeze/water mix, but I think my thermostat may be stuck open as I don't see why the temps should drop to 60 deg on the move. And the gauge reads within a few degs compared with the ECU reading.
On a completely different subject, will be fitting my new Toyo R888s next week as well as doing the oil change to the Silkolene stuff. Might even do a trackday one of these days!
Byker28i said:
Opie recommended me silkolene pro-s 10w 50. Looks like ribena and the car seems to like it.
This is what I used to put in my Cerb, plus the same brand in a couple of previous cars - good quality oil, but more importantly the right viscosity for an AJP with 20k plus miles. Any decent synth (Fuchs, Millers, Royal Purple, Mobil, Silkolene, Motul etc) with a rating of 10-50, 15-50 should be spot on, for newer engines or rebuilds I'd go for a 5-50 after the run-in period.Jules.
Im going to do an oil change this week.Ive always used Mobil 1,but ive seen from a few posts on here that some have been using Halfords own brand.Its readily available for me as i have a Halfords right near me.Mobil 1,i have to order in.Does the Halfords suff get the vote of approval?
BLUETHUNDER said:
Im going to do an oil change this week.Ive always used Mobil 1,but ive seen from a few posts on here that some have been using Halfords own brand.Its readily available for me as i have a Halfords right near me.Mobil 1,i have to order in.Does the Halfords suff get the vote of approval?
as long as the viscosity is right. I probably wouldn't put it in mine as I am quite anal when it comes to things like oil (plus I can get my hands on decent brands very cheap when I need it), but it will more than do the job it's required to do.Jules.
Cyclone1 said:
BLUETHUNDER said:
Cyclone1 said:
BLUETHUNDER said:
So Halfords 15w50 will be ok?
Yes, it should be fine, it will certainly improve your oil pressure reading.Jules.
Jules.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff