Searched hot stalling but.......
Discussion
Hi
I hope some one will be able to help me!
When i fire her up the revs rise and fall constantly and she feels like she is going to stall (minor problem!) but i keep the revs at 1200 ish for 30 seconds and all is well, but i have noticed that every now and again after a good run she will stall (major problem!)at lights/roundabout/junctions etc.
I have searched the site and come up with a few possible solutions...
1 the ecu temp sender
2 the air temp sender
Either they are faulty or the the connections need cleaning- Has anyone cured this problem baring in mind i dont have the capability to connect a laptop up yet.
Or any other suggestions would be appreciated?
Thanks
Paul
I hope some one will be able to help me!
When i fire her up the revs rise and fall constantly and she feels like she is going to stall (minor problem!) but i keep the revs at 1200 ish for 30 seconds and all is well, but i have noticed that every now and again after a good run she will stall (major problem!)at lights/roundabout/junctions etc.
I have searched the site and come up with a few possible solutions...
1 the ecu temp sender
2 the air temp sender
Either they are faulty or the the connections need cleaning- Has anyone cured this problem baring in mind i dont have the capability to connect a laptop up yet.
Or any other suggestions would be appreciated?
Thanks
Paul
Does it tickover on its own? if so what's it ticking over at, perhaps it just needs adjusting alittle? how many miles since last service?
(sp6 engine?)
Reason I ask about the service is that somewhere around 6K miles they can go out of tune and it may just need a tune up to get the banks back in synch.
(sp6 engine?)
Reason I ask about the service is that somewhere around 6K miles they can go out of tune and it may just need a tune up to get the banks back in synch.
Edited by David Godfrey on Tuesday 4th September 22:42
Had the same problem. Went to die on me when started cold for 30seconds if I didn't give it help with my right foot. Use to conk out when revesing when starting from hot or small manoeuvres.
Just raise the idle and problem was solved. Mine was around 750rmp and moved it to 900/950 rpm.
Always worth a look at the software while you are at it.
Just raise the idle and problem was solved. Mine was around 750rmp and moved it to 900/950 rpm.
Always worth a look at the software while you are at it.
gibson007 said:
Hi
I hope some one will be able to help me!
When i fire her up the revs rise and fall constantly and she feels like she is going to stall (minor problem!) but i keep the revs at 1200 ish for 30 seconds and all is well, but i have noticed that every now and again after a good run she will stall (major problem!)at lights/roundabout/junctions etc.
I have searched the site and come up with a few possible solutions...
1 the ecu temp sender
2 the air temp sender
Either they are faulty or the the connections need cleaning- Has anyone cured this problem baring in mind i dont have the capability to connect a laptop up yet.
Or any other suggestions would be appreciated?
Thanks
Paul
Could be loads of things.I hope some one will be able to help me!
When i fire her up the revs rise and fall constantly and she feels like she is going to stall (minor problem!) but i keep the revs at 1200 ish for 30 seconds and all is well, but i have noticed that every now and again after a good run she will stall (major problem!)at lights/roundabout/junctions etc.
I have searched the site and come up with a few possible solutions...
1 the ecu temp sender
2 the air temp sender
Either they are faulty or the the connections need cleaning- Has anyone cured this problem baring in mind i dont have the capability to connect a laptop up yet.
Or any other suggestions would be appreciated?
Thanks
Paul
Get the laptop plugged in and let us know what you've got.
Does the MIL light come on at all?
MB
Ok. Tried today with the laptop but could not get usb to serial to work. Will get work laptop and try again next week.
It was quite bad today and would not hold on idle without stalling. I have increased idle speed to about 1000 as a temp solution and its better- still fluctuates but not low enough to stall. i will probably give PPC at melton mobray a ring if it continues. It may be time to to add some decats and new discs....hmmm....
Paul
Ps. the mil light does not come on at all
It was quite bad today and would not hold on idle without stalling. I have increased idle speed to about 1000 as a temp solution and its better- still fluctuates but not low enough to stall. i will probably give PPC at melton mobray a ring if it continues. It may be time to to add some decats and new discs....hmmm....
Paul
Ps. the mil light does not come on at all
Edited by gibson007 on Saturday 8th September 17:59
If the MIL light doesn't come on then I suggest starting from the beginning and setting up the throttle bodies with the linkage/rod removed, so that you can see that they are even then adjusting the link rod length so that it is just right ie both throttle bodies remain the same when the link is put back in and then rise roughly equally as the throttle is depressed.
It's fiddly, but this is the starting point if you want to get it right.
MB
It's fiddly, but this is the starting point if you want to get it right.
MB
marcus1970 said:
If the MIL light doesn't come on then I suggest starting from the beginning and setting up the throttle bodies with the linkage/rod removed, so that you can see that they are even then adjusting the link rod length so that it is just right ie both throttle bodies remain the same when the link is put back in and then rise roughly equally as the throttle is depressed.
It's fiddly, but this is the starting point if you want to get it right.
MB
It's fiddly, but this is the starting point if you want to get it right.
MB

We also did this on mine, along with changing the plugs and HTleads.
Found some slack on the rod ends. Got the ends from Ondrives for around £12.
Made a world of diffrence
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