New guy needs more help!
Discussion
Hi all, I have a list of questions that need answers but i will start with the most important!
How hot should a 4.2 get? when in motion it sits around the 70 degree area but in traffic it soars upto 100/110 degrees is this normal?
Also what is the average oil pressure mine sits around the 60psi mark and the oil light intermitantly comes on though reading other posts this may be the oil pressure switch at fault.
Any help is most appreciated...
How hot should a 4.2 get? when in motion it sits around the 70 degree area but in traffic it soars upto 100/110 degrees is this normal?
Also what is the average oil pressure mine sits around the 60psi mark and the oil light intermitantly comes on though reading other posts this may be the oil pressure switch at fault.
Any help is most appreciated...
The temperature sounds about right, but you can get a cooling chip from Trackcar Solutions, this plugs into your ecu and makes the fans come on that bit reasuringly earlier, 95 instead of 105 degrees.
If your guage, which is mechanical, is saying 70psi then the oil pressure is ok it does sound as if its the switch. Its not in the most easest of places to get to, under the coil packs but I've heard its the same as a Rover v8 switch
If your guage, which is mechanical, is saying 70psi then the oil pressure is ok it does sound as if its the switch. Its not in the most easest of places to get to, under the coil packs but I've heard its the same as a Rover v8 switch
The oil pressure switch is the RV8 one and its worth re-routing the std run for the temperature capillary tube as its ty-wrapped to the water rail coming out of the head.
remove the ty-wraps and move it to on top of the airbox or somewhere similar and you'll see temperatures drop a bot
Matt
remove the ty-wraps and move it to on top of the airbox or somewhere similar and you'll see temperatures drop a bot
Matt
350Matt said:
The oil pressure switch is the RV8 one and its worth re-routing the std run for the temperature capillary tube as its ty-wrapped to the water rail coming out of the head.
remove the ty-wraps and move it to on top of the airbox or somewhere similar and you'll see temperatures drop a bot
Matt
I've never been able to get my head round this one. When the capilliary tube is strapped to the water rail, and the fan is set to cut in at 105, and when it cuts in the Guage reads 105, then the temp is 105 surely.remove the ty-wraps and move it to on top of the airbox or somewhere similar and you'll see temperatures drop a bot
Matt
If you re-route the gauge, and therefore the Guage reads cooler, at what temp will the fans cut in??
The fans are controlled by the ECU which has its own electrical temp sensor. The std chip brings the fans on at 95 and 98 or thereabouts.
The gauge is completely separate. It has a capillary filled with ether or some such which gets warmed up by the heat from the manifolds when its strapped to the coolant rail. Moving it away from the manifolds reduces this localised heating of the stuff in the capillary hence it reads closer to the temp that the ECU sensor reading.
The gauge is completely separate. It has a capillary filled with ether or some such which gets warmed up by the heat from the manifolds when its strapped to the coolant rail. Moving it away from the manifolds reduces this localised heating of the stuff in the capillary hence it reads closer to the temp that the ECU sensor reading.
mikesr said:
The fans are controlled by the ECU which has its own electrical temp sensor. The std chip brings the fans on at 95 and 98 or thereabouts.
The gauge is completely separate. It has a capillary filled with ether or some such which gets warmed up by the heat from the manifolds when its strapped to the coolant rail. Moving it away from the manifolds reduces this localised heating of the stuff in the capillary hence it reads closer to the temp that the ECU sensor reading.
Yes I know how it all works - But my fans cut in at the right Temp according to the guage, my Temp guage reads the same temp as the ECU diags say. So therefore my gauge reads accurate, so what is the point of rerouting it to make it read lower? All that will do is give me a false reading.The gauge is completely separate. It has a capillary filled with ether or some such which gets warmed up by the heat from the manifolds when its strapped to the coolant rail. Moving it away from the manifolds reduces this localised heating of the stuff in the capillary hence it reads closer to the temp that the ECU sensor reading.
I'd suggest that anyone connsidering re-routing it the capilliary tube, should first check that the Guage against the ECU Temp.
I'm guessing mine was sorted. I checked my readings with the diagnostic software and it was almost spot on with the gauge.
I've dropped my temps by 5 degrees by recoring the radiator. I think Alan achieved a 10 degree drop by doing his. If the car/radiator is old them it may have some muck in te cores affecting performance.
I've dropped my temps by 5 degrees by recoring the radiator. I think Alan achieved a 10 degree drop by doing his. If the car/radiator is old them it may have some muck in te cores affecting performance.
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