Discussion
I need advice please! I have replacement rubber boots for my drive shafts. If the CV joints prove to be worn, is it possible to replace the joints individually or do they come as a complete drive shaft assembly? The allen head bolts (holding the shaft to the output flange)are somewhat tight too. Is it safer to use steady torque to loosen them or to shock them into undoing with a hammer to tap the bar I will be using? Alternatively, a helpful local garage with an air socket could loosen them (except my car is SORNED at present).
Did this a while ago, hope it helps.
Try allen key with a spanner on end for extra leverage and a tap with a small hammer should get them moving, once they go they should come out ok.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Try allen key with a spanner on end for extra leverage and a tap with a small hammer should get them moving, once they go they should come out ok.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Nick Cooper said:
Did this a while ago, hope it helps.
Try allen key with a spanner on end for extra leverage and a tap with a small hammer should get them moving, once they go they should come out ok.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Having had a difficult time with very tight bolts and a CVJ that was glued to the hub I have found the following works well:Try allen key with a spanner on end for extra leverage and a tap with a small hammer should get them moving, once they go they should come out ok.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
1. undo the bolts at the diff output using a high quality (Draper expert 1/2 inch drive) hexagon of 8 mm, with several extension bars , ending in an 18 inch bar (which you rotate outside of the wheel arch). Press the latter towards the diff with your leg as you use massive force to unscrew the bolts. A cheap alternative socket could damage the bolt heads.
2. Working at home there is no room to repeat this for the outer (hub end) bolts. Instead use the tool with a 10 inch bar and tap with a hammer, having ensured the tool is fully inserted into the bolt.
3. Before removing the loosened diff bolts but after having removed the hub cvj bolts, jam the diff bolts to stop the shaft turning. Now use a large bar to rotate the wheel studs. When it turns, you have overcome the stiction between the hub and the end of the CVJ. The alternative brute force and ignorance approach I used initially on one shaft may have damaged my outer CVJ which is too tight and about to be replaced. For home mechanics, it may be worthwhile to ask a local garage to use a hydraulic press to remove a CVJ if it is very tight on its splined shaft. (Yes I did remember to remove the retaining circlip!). To replace rubber boots, you (obviously) only need to take off one CVJ per drive shaft.
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