What sort of price is good for undersealing?
Discussion
Was quoted £300 from very reputable people. They did however tell me that in all fairnees I would be wasting my money on Waxoyl, and be just as well off giving the frame a regular wash down.
Don't think there is a real, cost effective alternative to DIY. Just hope I get round to doing mine before it starts displaying the qualities of a Lancia Beta
Don't think there is a real, cost effective alternative to DIY. Just hope I get round to doing mine before it starts displaying the qualities of a Lancia Beta
Anyone care to give some guidance on DIY rustproofing? When people are talking about Waxoiling, are they talking about the inside of the spaceframe tubes (in which case, are you drilling holes to get in?) or just slathering it on the outside (which seems a bit pointless??).
Can you actually do any kind of worthwhile job without taking the car to bits? The vulnerable areas seem to be around the engine bay, and access seems very restricted without removing the engine (or at least the rad).
If I could get my steam cleaner up and working then I'd probably give it a good going over with that, as I don't really fancy taking the pressure washer to the underside of the car.
I've got the lend of the ramp this weekend, so any advice most gratefully recieved...
Can you actually do any kind of worthwhile job without taking the car to bits? The vulnerable areas seem to be around the engine bay, and access seems very restricted without removing the engine (or at least the rad).
If I could get my steam cleaner up and working then I'd probably give it a good going over with that, as I don't really fancy taking the pressure washer to the underside of the car.
I've got the lend of the ramp this weekend, so any advice most gratefully recieved...
Remove the exhaust section, remove the heat shielding (drill out the pop rivets), then clean the chassis rails, then spend the rest of the day getting dirty...... Wire brush all the rust scabs off and treat with Rust Eater, then repaint with Hammerite, and if your really fussy, then Waxoyls it with clear Waxoyl.
Finally spend 2 hours in a nice hot bath trying to get clean
Finally spend 2 hours in a nice hot bath trying to get clean
Hi,
I have just paid £500 for mine and I am very happy with the results. My chassis was solid but the outriggers started to show the first signs of rust. So, I had the chassis degreased and sanded down, treated with Hydrate 80, repainted in "2k paint" (whatever that is), repainted in stone chip paint then a thorough wax oiling.
The work took just over a week and is very very tidy. No paint or wax oil except where it should be. I will post some pics up here when I pull them off my camera.
Tim.
I have just paid £500 for mine and I am very happy with the results. My chassis was solid but the outriggers started to show the first signs of rust. So, I had the chassis degreased and sanded down, treated with Hydrate 80, repainted in "2k paint" (whatever that is), repainted in stone chip paint then a thorough wax oiling.
The work took just over a week and is very very tidy. No paint or wax oil except where it should be. I will post some pics up here when I pull them off my camera.
Tim.
TimJM said:
Hi,
I have just paid £500 for mine and I am very happy with the results. My chassis was solid but the outriggers started to show the first signs of rust. So, I had the chassis degreased and sanded down, treated with Hydrate 80, repainted in "2k paint" (whatever that is), repainted in stone chip paint then a thorough wax oiling.
The work took just over a week and is very very tidy. No paint or wax oil except where it should be. I will post some pics up here when I pull them off my camera.
Tim.
Please do Tim, how much of the outer rails (the ones that run in line with the wheels along the length of the car?) could be done? It was a job i had on my list while i had the car, be interested in the results......I have just paid £500 for mine and I am very happy with the results. My chassis was solid but the outriggers started to show the first signs of rust. So, I had the chassis degreased and sanded down, treated with Hydrate 80, repainted in "2k paint" (whatever that is), repainted in stone chip paint then a thorough wax oiling.
The work took just over a week and is very very tidy. No paint or wax oil except where it should be. I will post some pics up here when I pull them off my camera.
Tim.
I'm in the process of cleaning up and painting the front suspension and outriggers. I did the rear last winter with POR15 top coated in white. A real pain of a job but satisfying in a perverse kind of way. I stripped the suspension to do it and used the full POR15 treatment - marine clean, metal ready (to etch) and then the paint. Takes ages but I'd prefer to be protecting the chassis over winter rather than killing it on salty roads.
For the front the suspension, radiator, cooling hoses and steering rack have been removed. I decided its the only way to get at all the rusty bits. In the process I have taken off all the rusty metal brackets I can get at - oil cooler, condenser, PAS resevoir etc for a clean and paint. The pipework into the PAS rack was also coated in rust but it has cleaned up nicely with the metal ready and I'll give them a coat of POR15 as well.
I'm not convinced of the worth of waxoyl and such like once the rust has got under the paint. In a few places I have found the only thing holding on the paint and making it look OK was the waxoyl. It and the paint were maybe forming a nice protective barrier to keep the moisture in and feed the rust.
Once its all repainted I'll probably just wash it down a couple of times a year.
For the front the suspension, radiator, cooling hoses and steering rack have been removed. I decided its the only way to get at all the rusty bits. In the process I have taken off all the rusty metal brackets I can get at - oil cooler, condenser, PAS resevoir etc for a clean and paint. The pipework into the PAS rack was also coated in rust but it has cleaned up nicely with the metal ready and I'll give them a coat of POR15 as well.
I'm not convinced of the worth of waxoyl and such like once the rust has got under the paint. In a few places I have found the only thing holding on the paint and making it look OK was the waxoyl. It and the paint were maybe forming a nice protective barrier to keep the moisture in and feed the rust.
Once its all repainted I'll probably just wash it down a couple of times a year.
Edited by mikesr on Friday 14th December 21:18
Robertjp said:
Please do Tim, how much of the outer rails (the ones that run in line with the wheels along the length of the car?) could be done? It was a job i had on my list while i had the car, be interested in the results......
The whole rails have been done. I will put the pics up tomorrow.Tim.
TimJM said:
Hi,
I have just paid £500 for mine and I am very happy with the results. My chassis was solid but the outriggers started to show the first signs of rust. So, I had the chassis degreased and sanded down, treated with Hydrate 80, repainted in "2k paint" (whatever that is), repainted in stone chip paint then a thorough wax oiling.
The work took just over a week and is very very tidy. No paint or wax oil except where it should be. I will post some pics up here when I pull them off my camera.
Tim.
That sounds more like the sort of work i would like to have done!I have just paid £500 for mine and I am very happy with the results. My chassis was solid but the outriggers started to show the first signs of rust. So, I had the chassis degreased and sanded down, treated with Hydrate 80, repainted in "2k paint" (whatever that is), repainted in stone chip paint then a thorough wax oiling.
The work took just over a week and is very very tidy. No paint or wax oil except where it should be. I will post some pics up here when I pull them off my camera.
Tim.
Here are the pics through various stages of the work (degreasing, sanding, Hydrate 80, 2k Paint, Stonechip Paint and Waxoil). The last ones were taken after a few weeks of daily driving with all the gritting and wet weather so they don't look as clean as when I picked the car up - still it looks like the waxoil is doing the job as just about every piece of grit from here to work is now stuck to my chassis.
And for those who made it to the end of the chassis pics here are a couple from the topside:
And for those who made it to the end of the chassis pics here are a couple from the topside:
brakedust300 said:
Looks fantastic, all i need now is to find somewhere in scotland that can do the same!
Yeah, it would be a bit of a drive to Stoke on Trent. To be honest all the work is do-able yourself, but if you are like me and don't have any free time then paying somebody else if often the only way.Right iv just purchased Hydrate 80, Electrox and Deox-Gel so it looks like ill be busy over Christmas!
I dont trust anyone to do a proper job, and i have access to a pit at work, having searched through all the Internet rubbish and reading the reviews in practical classics i think this is the best setup, im in 2 minds as to whether i should waxoil it as well and found this interesting......
http://www.saabenthusiasts.co.uk/current-Issue/Cav...
I dont trust anyone to do a proper job, and i have access to a pit at work, having searched through all the Internet rubbish and reading the reviews in practical classics i think this is the best setup, im in 2 minds as to whether i should waxoil it as well and found this interesting......
http://www.saabenthusiasts.co.uk/current-Issue/Cav...
brakedust300 said:
Right iv just purchased Hydrate 80, Electrox and Deox-Gel so it looks like ill be busy over Christmas!
I dont trust anyone to do a proper job, and i have access to a pit at work, having searched through all the Internet rubbish and reading the reviews in practical classics i think this is the best setup, im in 2 minds as to whether i should waxoil it as well and found this interesting......
http://www.saabenthusiasts.co.uk/current-Issue/Cav...
Brave man - Sounds like you will have your work cut out. Just remember that each treatment will probably take 24 hours or so and that you should let the car stand in the garage where you will be working for a day or two before you start to allow the chassis to dry out.I dont trust anyone to do a proper job, and i have access to a pit at work, having searched through all the Internet rubbish and reading the reviews in practical classics i think this is the best setup, im in 2 minds as to whether i should waxoil it as well and found this interesting......
http://www.saabenthusiasts.co.uk/current-Issue/Cav...
As for waxoil I think it does offer some protection and would rather have it than not.
Don't forget to post some pics.
Tim.
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