Discussion
Just a quick one - the drive shaft gaiters are listed in the equivelant parts threat as being Ford Granada, but no year is given. Are they all the same, or should I assume the most recent model granny?
Finally going to get round to replacing them this weekend (after a number of false starts)
Finally going to get round to replacing them this weekend (after a number of false starts)
I got one side done yesterday, as it all took a lot longer than expected.
I'd hoped that once the bolts at either end of the driveshaft were undone, that the driveshaft would just come out, but no, you need to take some of the suspension apart to get it out.
I don't know if this is the "right" way, but its the way I did it:
Remove wheel
Undo top wishbone bolt, carefully marking the position of the bolt first (it's position is the camber/toe adjustment).
Cut the cable tie holting the handbrake cable on
Undo the anti-rollbar to droplink bolt.
After that, the hub came down far enough to get the driveshaft out
Before removing the circlips to get the CV joint off the shaft, I marked it with a file to get the orienation the same when it all went back - don't know if this is necessary on this particular job, but its good practice anyway.
Refitting, as they say, is the reverse of removal
With hindsight, I should have waited until I was ready to do all the rustproofing, so that I could've done a thorough job of the wishbones while I was at it. Hey-ho you live and learn.
As an aside, on the subject of rustproofing, my friend introduced me to a paint called Zinc 300, which is effectively cold galvanisation. Cheap it is not at £16 for a 1/2 litre tin, but it seems a much more effective solution than a pure barrier paint like hammerite.
I'd hoped that once the bolts at either end of the driveshaft were undone, that the driveshaft would just come out, but no, you need to take some of the suspension apart to get it out.
I don't know if this is the "right" way, but its the way I did it:
Remove wheel
Undo top wishbone bolt, carefully marking the position of the bolt first (it's position is the camber/toe adjustment).
Cut the cable tie holting the handbrake cable on
Undo the anti-rollbar to droplink bolt.
After that, the hub came down far enough to get the driveshaft out
Before removing the circlips to get the CV joint off the shaft, I marked it with a file to get the orienation the same when it all went back - don't know if this is necessary on this particular job, but its good practice anyway.
Refitting, as they say, is the reverse of removal
With hindsight, I should have waited until I was ready to do all the rustproofing, so that I could've done a thorough job of the wishbones while I was at it. Hey-ho you live and learn.
As an aside, on the subject of rustproofing, my friend introduced me to a paint called Zinc 300, which is effectively cold galvanisation. Cheap it is not at £16 for a 1/2 litre tin, but it seems a much more effective solution than a pure barrier paint like hammerite.
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