Newbie - Hello,,, and help!!
Discussion
Well folks I'm finally here - after a couple of years of 'should I - Shouldnt I...' I finally jumped from a Griff to a Cerb 4.2.
Its a beautiful car and was checked and serviced by a good Indy in Blackpool before I picked it up.
It was running fine when I picked it up. but on the way home to Scotland I had to drive in torrential rain for a few hours and some issues developed during it.
First I noticed the mileometer had stopped working, then the MIL light came on (related?).
I stopped for fuel and fiddled around, and when I restarted the mileometer worked again, but the MIL light still came on, though went off above 3000RPM.
I plodded on home through the wet weather, but the car began to run rough at lower revs and became horrible to drive as it suddenly went from spluttering at low revs to full power over 3000!!
When I got home, I got the hair dryer out and dried the visible wiring in the engine bay, but took it a run today, and its not behaving well at all at low revs, even cutting out occasionally on tick-over. The MIL light is still on until it fires properly at 3000.
I'm not near to any TVR garages, has anyone got any suggestions on what I should try? - I'm REASONABLY handy with a spanner if explained in idiotproof language - had a few TVRs, but this is a new beast to me - hope its worth it...
Its a beautiful car and was checked and serviced by a good Indy in Blackpool before I picked it up.
It was running fine when I picked it up. but on the way home to Scotland I had to drive in torrential rain for a few hours and some issues developed during it.
First I noticed the mileometer had stopped working, then the MIL light came on (related?).
I stopped for fuel and fiddled around, and when I restarted the mileometer worked again, but the MIL light still came on, though went off above 3000RPM.
I plodded on home through the wet weather, but the car began to run rough at lower revs and became horrible to drive as it suddenly went from spluttering at low revs to full power over 3000!!
When I got home, I got the hair dryer out and dried the visible wiring in the engine bay, but took it a run today, and its not behaving well at all at low revs, even cutting out occasionally on tick-over. The MIL light is still on until it fires properly at 3000.
I'm not near to any TVR garages, has anyone got any suggestions on what I should try? - I'm REASONABLY handy with a spanner if explained in idiotproof language - had a few TVRs, but this is a new beast to me - hope its worth it...
Check the ECU in the passenger footwell for water ingress. There is a fibreglass panel covered with carpet that will pull out from the bottom once you take the floormat out. The ECU is behind that. Wild guess would be that water has got into the connector - it is a favorite place for leaks.
On mine, water would creep in through the grommet where the heater hoses run through to the engine bay. It would trckle along the hoses then onto the ECU.
On mine, water would creep in through the grommet where the heater hoses run through to the engine bay. It would trckle along the hoses then onto the ECU.
I had very similar sounding problems during severe rain in the summer 
I did as someone else has suggested here and burrowed into the passenger footwell and dug out the ECU - when I unplugged it - water ran out! 
.
Removed the cover and bought it indoors for a few days and let the air dry it out.
A 'friend' climbed into the footwell and I poured water into the engine bay (carefully!) and we found water coming in through the 'gromits', so after lots and lots of silcon - the problem seems to be solved.
Not sure if this will help you, but if you don't have the software handy to plug the car in, you may find the above a easy check??
Good luck.
I did as someone else has suggested here and burrowed into the passenger footwell and dug out the ECU - when I unplugged it - water ran out! .Removed the cover and bought it indoors for a few days and let the air dry it out.
A 'friend' climbed into the footwell and I poured water into the engine bay (carefully!) and we found water coming in through the 'gromits', so after lots and lots of silcon - the problem seems to be solved.
Not sure if this will help you, but if you don't have the software handy to plug the car in, you may find the above a easy check??
Good luck.
Byker28i said:
Have a look in my profile, then download the diagnostic software and see what the MIL light is telling you...
I've checked the footwell area and it all appears bone dry - can you explain the computer diagnostic process a wee bit more please (in computer numpt-yish speak please?)I've got a lap-top, but could use some tips on how to do this for the first time...
Thanks
BIIOAB said:
I've checked the footwell area and it all appears bone dry
Did you unplug the ECU?When I had water problems with the ECU after a torrential downpour the footwell was dry and everything looked OK until I unplugged the ECU.
I had the infamous water in the connector which plays havoc with all the sensor inputs. The water was getting inside the wrapping of the harness and then running down inside.
Its a good idea to mount the ECU with the connector pointing down with the harness looping up to it.
If you want to go belt and braces carefully cut a slit in the harness covering at the lowest point of the loop. That way if any water does get into the harness it will drain away - admittedly into the footwell but then at least you know there is water getting in.
mikesr said:
BIIOAB said:
I've checked the footwell area and it all appears bone dry
Its a good idea to mount the ECU with the connector pointing down with the harness looping up to it.Diagnostic procedure Dave? - anyone?
The wording in the file "Section G Engine.pdf" is pretty good.
Its the first section.
Don't worry about all the disconnecting throttle rods etc
Start on page 5 at number 7 "Ensure the computer is fully charged.... blah blah
Your profile pic looks like an older model so hopefully you have an ECU with the 9 pin socket inside
(If it doesn't then it will have a 3 pin flying lead and you will need to buy an ECU lead (Clever Trevor has them IIRC) Note there will be a 2 pin flying lead that is a simplistic diagnostic port. You need to get the lid off teh ECU to check if it has the 9 pin connector)
Assuming it has the 9 pin connector inside all you need is a null modem cable.
(There is a diagram of a mapping lead floating about that shows some resistors on the ECU end but this isn't essential)
Lid off ECU and connect up the laptop
Immobiliser off and ignition on (ie buzzer sounding) but no need to start the engine
Fire up the software and it should detect the ECU
Use page up/down to show the other pages - especially the logged and current faults
Do a search on this forum if you have hassle with getting it to connect - lots of good advice on what to tweak on the laptop
The readme txt files with the software describe what the various faults mean and possible causes.
HTH
Its the first section.
Don't worry about all the disconnecting throttle rods etc
Start on page 5 at number 7 "Ensure the computer is fully charged.... blah blah
Your profile pic looks like an older model so hopefully you have an ECU with the 9 pin socket inside
(If it doesn't then it will have a 3 pin flying lead and you will need to buy an ECU lead (Clever Trevor has them IIRC) Note there will be a 2 pin flying lead that is a simplistic diagnostic port. You need to get the lid off teh ECU to check if it has the 9 pin connector)
Assuming it has the 9 pin connector inside all you need is a null modem cable.
(There is a diagram of a mapping lead floating about that shows some resistors on the ECU end but this isn't essential)
Lid off ECU and connect up the laptop
Immobiliser off and ignition on (ie buzzer sounding) but no need to start the engine
Fire up the software and it should detect the ECU
Use page up/down to show the other pages - especially the logged and current faults
Do a search on this forum if you have hassle with getting it to connect - lots of good advice on what to tweak on the laptop
The readme txt files with the software describe what the various faults mean and possible causes.
HTH
- beginning to regret this already... mikesr said:
Your profile pic looks like an older model so hopefully you have an ECU with the 9 pin socket inside
(If it doesn't then it will have a 3 pin flying lead and you will need to buy an ECU lead (Clever Trevor has them IIRC) Note there will be a 2 pin flying lead that is a simplistic diagnostic port. You need to get the lid off teh ECU to check if it has the 9 pin connector)
I see the 2 pin flying lead, and theres another slightly thicker one disappears behind the dash but cant see where it goes to - does this sound like a lead to a diagnostic connection, and where might it be (not obvious)??? (If it doesn't then it will have a 3 pin flying lead and you will need to buy an ECU lead (Clever Trevor has them IIRC) Note there will be a 2 pin flying lead that is a simplistic diagnostic port. You need to get the lid off teh ECU to check if it has the 9 pin connector)
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