Engine bay lining

[caduceus]

After taking out the n/s maniold out of the Cerb, I saw the extent of the heat damage to the lining, bodywork and chassis.




Is there an uprated material that I can use to replace that silver sheet lining available? If so, who supplies it?
And the silver shielding that is wrapped round the cables, that is fraying. Is there something better to use than what is already present?

The chassis will get wire brushed back to the metal, and re-coated. And the fibreglass will get scraped back and rebuilt with some fibreglass sheet and putty/paste, before the new silver shielding goes back on.

Any thoughts on what the best materials to use would be welcomed.

Cheers
Cad

[longbow]

Aluminium heat reflective material can be got from demon tweeks in varying thicknesses, but it isn't cheap. You can either fix it to the GRP using either contact adhesive or small rivets with large washers. You can also get sleeving made of similar materials for all the hoses etc, but again it isn't cheap.

This is exactly how my engine bay looked, and unfortunately there isn't an easy fix. Good pics though

[caduceus]

Cheers Windsor. Will give DT a try.

I need to pop down to my local car spares at some point for some RTV silicone and grp, so I'll see if they have anything like it aswell.

Think I'll use adhesive of some sort as I've never used rivets, and its a bit tight in there to use a gun.

[mikesr]

Have you been taking pictures of my engine bay?

Seriously its almost identical apart from the body colour.


I replaced the fuel hose and sleeving last year. I got the sleeving from GPR Direct.
Do a keyword search for thermo-sleeve. £15ish per metre IIRC. Very good quality.

The heat mat I've been looking at is from NF Auto - £25 VAT per metre. They also do contact adhesive and aluminium tape to tidy up the cut edges. Haven't bought it yet so no idea on quality etc

Otherwise Demon Tweeks or GPR Direct

[mikesr]

Heat wrapping is reputed to hold the moisture in and cause rusting isn't it?
Its also a pain when the manifold cracks and needs welding.

I've seen some heat shields that clamp onto the exhaust - like a thin metal tube slit down one side sitting proud of the exhaust - but I can't think where I saw them.

[jonjo]

TVRparts do the original TVR heatsheilding material very cheap but if you want to upgrade look at the Agriemach website.

[itsallyellow]

Be carefull with exhaust wrap. It will reduce under bonnet tempratures, however it can absorb fluids in the engine bay and be a catalist for fires.

Ceramic coating is the way forward!

Mike

[longbow]

I did both. Ceramic coated it myself using Black Satin and synthetic thinners and an airbrush after having them sandblasted. This cost around £50 all in for both manifolds. Then wrapped them ontop. The mainifolds are stainless steel aren't they, so rust isn't really an issue. But that said, everytime I wash the car I always run the engine for a few minutes to 'steam off' the manifolds!!

Edited by longbow on Thursday 3rd January 12:36

[shpub]

The best stuff to use is Nimbus heat shielding. very very expensive but superb. Budget around £3-400 to to a complete car.
I have lined the Cerb with it right into the tunnel. The Exhaust heat shield was also covered. Heat soak is now virtually zero. The tunnel get the chill taken off it and that is it. Yes I am running cats. Finished it off in the engine bay with a bit of plastic trim over the edges.

[longbow]

Very nice Steve! I am in discussion with a chap who imports engines from the US as the moment - he's looking for a low milage LS7 for me, so fingers crossed!

Although there is a Gen 2 Viper V10 8.0 Litre on ebay at the moment for $5000 US including tranmission

Edited by longbow on Thursday 3rd January 13:08

[mikesr]

shpub said:

The best stuff to use is Nimbus heat shielding.

Which of the 3 types did you use Steve? lite GII or GIIIX?

And yes it looks very smart.

[caduceus]

Very nice btw Steve. THanks for the tips.

[longbow]

The manifolds on mine are standard, but aren't they stainless steel anyway?

[shpub]

mikesr said:

shpub said:

The best stuff to use is Nimbus heat shielding.

Which of the 3 types did you use Steve? lite GII or GIIIX?

And yes it looks very smart.

G11. Took quite some time to do but I am very pleased with the result. I also had the manifolds ceramic coated which has helped.

[Erich Stahler]

longbow said:

The manifolds on mine are standard, but aren't they stainless steel anyway?

The standard ones are definateley stainless, which is one reason they seem to develop fractures so easily, if they were mild steel they would rust to nothing in a few months, thats why mass produced exaust manifolds are cast iron.

[caduceus]

Heres a pic of the crack in my n/s manifold, that I got welded by my very good uncle this afternoon. It actually goes half way round the pipe.

[Brummmie]

Mine was the same as this pre-rebuild, it went through with a hammer this was the catalyst for the body off. Dont wrap the exhaust, wrap the chassis rails with reflective material, just on the hot side and secure with stainless cable ties.

[mikesr]

I found those heat shield things - Pipe Shields from Thermo Tec - both GPR and Demon tweeks show them in their catalogues but I can't find them on their websites.

Not too expensive so I may give them a go.

[ridds]

https://www.europaspares.com/EXHAUSTS/THERMO_TEC/A...

Just been looking for hose covers and Europaspares have it listed on their site.