Ride Height

[cerbfan]

The ride height on my Cerb is far to low and I'm sure the reason for the terrible handling currently. Is the main aim to get the wishbones level with the ground front and rear?
Is there any quick rule of thumb as to how many turns on the Nitrons will be required to raise the ride height by a certain amount?
I'm sure the car is pratically on its bump stops at the moment and it was not this low when the car went away about a year ago. Would this just be the springs sagging over time? Would sagging like this be normal or would it point to new springs being required?

Sorry for all the questions.

[ajcj]

Funny thing, my Cerb always looks very low when I'm sitting in it. Don't suppose you've put a lot of weight on in the past year?

[JensenA]

A lot of different views on this subject - As a good starting point try to get the lower wishbones parallel to the ground. Do one side first, front and rear, then you can use the measurements obtained from these, to adjust th opposite sides. The car needs to be 10-15mm higher at the back than the front, measuring from the extreme edges of the outrigger chassis rails to the ground. Bear in mind that altering the ride height also effects camber and toe-in.

[cerbfan]

ajcj said:

Funny thing, my Cerb always looks very low when I'm sitting in it. Don't suppose you've put a lot of weight on in the past year?

In all honesty yes, however this is before my lardy arse even gets into it.

Jensena, thanks for the info and I'll try that setup this weekend and I need to get all the alignment done as well.

[_Neal_]

I had lost ride height from the springs sagging and dampers being on their last legs. Had them replaced with Gaz Nickels and new springs, which lost some ride height as they bedded in (especially at the rear) which made the handling entertaining, but I understood this was normal.

Rule of thumb I heard was to make the distance between the bottom of the outrigger and the ground about 150mm all round.

Hope that at least vaguely helps

[JensenA]

cerbfan said:

ajcj said:

Funny thing, my Cerb always looks very low when I'm sitting in it. Don't suppose you've put a lot of weight on in the past year?

In all honesty yes, however this is before my lardy arse even gets into it.

Jensena, thanks for the info and I'll try that setup this weekend and I need to get all the alignment done as well.

The importance of the alignment is really important on the Cerb, give Derek at Absolutely Shocks a bell, he does suspension/alligment clinics (as he likes to call them ) - theres a lot to it, you'd be surprised.

[Ab Shocks]

Yes you should get the alignment done, plenty of good people in Tiv circles who can sort you out.
Had a late 4.2 in this week for handling problems, turned out he had spent untold bucks on Ohlins but still not happy and I found probably the worst set-up I have ever seen on any car with completely seized toe adjusters front and rear and no camber one side and 1.5 degrees the other,so nobody had even bothered to try and get it aligned, frightening!.

[HarryW]

Ab Shocks said:

Yes you should get the alignment done, plenty of good people in Tiv circles who can sort you out.
Had a late 4.2 in this week for handling problems, turned out he had spent untold bucks on Ohlins but still not happy and I found probably the worst set-up I have ever seen on any car with completely seized toe adjusters front and rear and no camber one side and 1.5 degrees the other,so nobody had even bothered to try and get it aligned, frightening!.

had mine set up yesterday by Tom at Austec and it took the best part of 4 hours, including the runs in between adjustment. I couldn't be happier with the handling, no in fact I'm stunned by the handling, helped by the fact they are Pauls latest specified Intrax .