fuel filter change

[V8CER]

Thought I would change the fuel filter so jacked up car removed N/S rear wheel looked at it and thought OK I cant undo the clamping screw and remove it as the upper lip on the filter stops it sliding down (and out) so I will undo the 2 mounting bolts and remove the filter and mount.
Both bolts turn without undoing so I assume there are nuts behind them, looked in the boot around and forward of the fuel tank and cant see or feel them so removed helmet holder and felt behind the seat still cant find them, what am I missing???

Thanx in advance
Peter

[ridds]

They're behind the helmet holder.

Easiest way though (if it looks tatty like mine) remove the clamp bolt, bend metal out to make just enough space to get the lip past. Fit new filter, clamp up with bolt, check for leaks.

[Ireland]

I've got this job to do as well tomorrow (sore back permitting).

[WIL35]

Did mine the other week, it says it is a two man job. One to reach in behind the nearside back seat via the helmet holder and one to undo the bolts. I managed to get a ring spanner to stay on the bolt end while I undid the nyloc bolt behind the seat. My one also only had one nut and bolt holding it in, probably because the far one was too difficult to get to.

I also had to tighten the pipe connections very tight to stop any leaks, would have liked to have new copper washers. Just tightened it and it has been fine since.

[Tanguero]

WIL35 said:

Did mine the other week, it says it is a two man job. One to reach in behind the nearside back seat via the helmet holder and one to undo the bolts. I managed to get a ring spanner to stay on the bolt end while I undid the nyloc bolt behind the seat. My one also only had one nut and bolt holding it in, probably because the far one was too difficult to get to.

I also had to tighten the pipe connections very tight to stop any leaks, would have liked to have new copper washers. Just tightened it and it has been fine since.

I found that mole grips locked onto the nut behind the back seat worked fine for undoing them.

If you ever need to re-use copper washers just anneal them by heating them to red hot with a blowtorch and letting them cool - take the oxide off with a bit of emery paper and they are as good (and soft) as new ones.

[WIL35]

Tanguero said:

I found that mole grips locked onto the nut behind the back seat worked fine for undoing them.

If you ever need to re-use copper washers just anneal them by heating them to red hot with a blowtorch and letting them cool - take the oxide off with a bit of emery paper and they are as good (and soft) as new ones.

That's useful to know, thanks for the info. I usually forget to ask for them when buying parts!

[TVR SUPPLIES]

WIL35 said:

Tanguero said:

I found that mole grips locked onto the nut behind the back seat worked fine for undoing them.

If you ever need to re-use copper washers just anneal them by heating them to red hot with a blowtorch and letting them cool - take the oxide off with a bit of emery paper and they are as good (and soft) as new ones.

That's useful to know, thanks for the info. I usually forget to ask for them when buying parts!

Thats a good tipYou should get new washers already in the box with a new filter though.The Fram ones always come supplied this way.

[Tanguero]

You have my old metallurgy lecturer to thank for that. His party piece was to have an inch square bar of high purity copper a foot or so long. In the first lecture of the year he would call on the smallest girl in the lecture to try and bend it - which she did with ease.

Then he would ask the bigest heftiest bloke to come up and straighten it out again. He would fail miserably - sometimes snapping the bar - because it only took a single bend to work harden the copper. He then heated it with a torch to re-anneal it and the first volunteer could straighten it again.