Timing Chain Tensioner
Discussion
Remove the oil filler neck - 3 capheads - and have a looksee into the cam case before fiddling with the bolt. The tensioner is behind the filler neck.
The tensioner bolt is drilled down its length and should have a steel rod in it.
If the rod is not there it may have fallen out into the cam case. But I don't think there is enough free space for it to do that.
Tensioning the belt is just tightening up the bolt and fitting lock wire
Its at the correct tension if you can just lift the chain from the tensioner blade with a 12 inch screwdriver (I kid you not its in the AJP engine build manual)
Too tight - thicker copper washer under the bolt
Too slack - thinner copper washer under the bolt
Very slack - cam chain probably needs replacing but you can shim out the rod by putting small washers into the hole in the bolt.
Hope there's no damage been done
The tensioner bolt is drilled down its length and should have a steel rod in it.
If the rod is not there it may have fallen out into the cam case. But I don't think there is enough free space for it to do that.
Tensioning the belt is just tightening up the bolt and fitting lock wire
Its at the correct tension if you can just lift the chain from the tensioner blade with a 12 inch screwdriver (I kid you not its in the AJP engine build manual)
Too tight - thicker copper washer under the bolt
Too slack - thinner copper washer under the bolt
Very slack - cam chain probably needs replacing but you can shim out the rod by putting small washers into the hole in the bolt.
Hope there's no damage been done
Mike, you'r right about how to tell if the tension is correct but infact the length of the bolt (shaft running inside drilled out bolt) is adjusted by packing very very small shims inside the bolt itself, as oppose to the copper washer method you mention. The bolt should be fully screwed in and wirelocked either way.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



