Clutch Master Cylinder Removal
Discussion
Since I'll have to take the car off the road till I get the MIL/misfire problem diagnosed, I've decided to tackle the slight leak at the clutch pedal.
I've got the new cylinder and an eezi-bleed kit, have removed the panel access to the cylinder - but looking at it, how the hell do you get anything on the lower fixing bolt head from the engine bay side - it looks impossibly tight to access?
Any advice?
I've got the new cylinder and an eezi-bleed kit, have removed the panel access to the cylinder - but looking at it, how the hell do you get anything on the lower fixing bolt head from the engine bay side - it looks impossibly tight to access?
Any advice?
Ireland said:
I posted an enquiry about this job last year sometime and I seem to remember someone that the seals could be replaced with the master cylinder still in place.
Am I wrong?
Your best off replacing the cylinder.For all you know the cylinder itself could be scored inside.I paid abot £65 from Clevor Trevor for mine.Am I wrong?
BLUETHUNDER said:
Spawn said:
I've had a loot at this today to and came to the same conclusion.. looks like a right ball ache!
The most difficult part for me,was trying to align the threaded sleeve to the cylinder body.Thats something you dont want to cross thread.Ireland said:
I posted an enquiry about this job last year sometime and I seem to remember someone that the seals could be replaced with the master cylinder still in place.
Am I wrong?
Hi there. Yes you can replace the seals from within the drivers footwell. (upgraded seals from TCS).A tight squeze but saves a lot of other work.Am I wrong?
And if you put cling film under the reseviour top it forms a vacume so holding the brake fluid while you change the seals. you can check the bore for damage when you have the plunger out.
John .
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