Finished the refurb - before and after piccies
Discussion
Here are a few pics of before and after
The job was supposed to be painting the front suspension and the chassis rails that run under the manifolds - it developed into a fairly serious amount of work: -
Front suspension stripped – upper and lower ball joints replaced
Coolant hoses removed, all the metal coolant pipe work removed and cleaned up (including coolant rails)
Exhaust manifolds removed and painted
Engine mounts removed and painted
Radiator and condenser taken out
Exhaust and cats and heat shield removed
Engine bay heat shields replaced and under side shield and starter motor shield covered with new heat mat
Air con pipe work removed, receiver/drier and all O rings replaced and system refilled
Steering rack removed, inner and outer pinion seals replaced and UJs replaced
Hoses from PAS reservoir replaced
Track rod ends and lock nuts replaced
Front callipers removed and cleaned up and painted
Front brakes bled with AP 5.1 fluid
Stainless nuts/bolts/washers on pretty much everything I removed - High tensile bolts where appropriate (like suspension and
engine mounts)
Coolant pipework before
and after
Suspension before
Suspension after
Chassis and hoses
Steering rack before
Heatmat and manifolds
The job was supposed to be painting the front suspension and the chassis rails that run under the manifolds - it developed into a fairly serious amount of work: -
Front suspension stripped – upper and lower ball joints replaced
Coolant hoses removed, all the metal coolant pipe work removed and cleaned up (including coolant rails)
Exhaust manifolds removed and painted
Engine mounts removed and painted
Radiator and condenser taken out
Exhaust and cats and heat shield removed
Engine bay heat shields replaced and under side shield and starter motor shield covered with new heat mat
Air con pipe work removed, receiver/drier and all O rings replaced and system refilled
Steering rack removed, inner and outer pinion seals replaced and UJs replaced
Hoses from PAS reservoir replaced
Track rod ends and lock nuts replaced
Front callipers removed and cleaned up and painted
Front brakes bled with AP 5.1 fluid
Stainless nuts/bolts/washers on pretty much everything I removed - High tensile bolts where appropriate (like suspension and
engine mounts)
Coolant pipework before
and after
Suspension before
Suspension after
Chassis and hoses
Steering rack before
Heatmat and manifolds
Edited by mikesr on Monday 19th May 19:39
Thanks guys.
I'm pleased it's finally over. It was a nearly too much to tackle in an only just big enough garage. It was getting to be a real trial towards the end - and the family weren't too thrilled when it over ran by a month.
I think the details are on the parts sticky thread.
Of course there are still a few things that need sorting but they can wait until end of season.
Need to get it through the MOT and then get some serious driving done
I'm pleased it's finally over. It was a nearly too much to tackle in an only just big enough garage. It was getting to be a real trial towards the end - and the family weren't too thrilled when it over ran by a month.
diycerb said:
Were the new ball joints expensive and easy to source?
Very easy to source the ball joints - TT Tim found an alternative supplier I think the details are on the parts sticky thread.
Of course there are still a few things that need sorting but they can wait until end of season.
Need to get it through the MOT and then get some serious driving done
Tracking will be done by Joo at TCS when I get a slot in his busy schedule. I was late completing so the period we had aimed at was missed.
Exhaust paint is from Frost - stainless steel grey but it looks more like battleship grey.
I used it because it didn't matter if there was a significant time delay between the paint drying and the engine being started to hot it up and cure it. And also because it can be touched up after it has cured. Good job too since my greasy paw prints are now cured into the finish
Chassis was done with the POR15 products
Marine clean to degrease
Rust and paint removal etc then another marine clean
Metal Ready to prep the rust and metal
2 coats of silver POR15
1 coat of their self etch primer
2 coats of white hammerite
Close up there are brush marks in the hammerite but I didn't expect to get a spray quality finish from hand brushing
The main aim was to give the chassis a few more years before a body off restoration is required.
The coolant pipes were done with black POR15 which produces a superb glossy finish.
The coolant rails and the metal pipes under the battery that go to the heater were treated with silver POR 15 where they had gone rusty.
Internally the coolant pipes were fine so I didn't bother replacing them.
All the brackets - condenser, receiver drier, PAS resevoir etc were done in silver and the steering rod, ARB, engine mounts in black
Still had some paint left so the rear closing plate is now silver
I did the rear suspension last year with the same treatment and it still looks really good when the road grime is cleaned off.
Exhaust paint is from Frost - stainless steel grey but it looks more like battleship grey.
I used it because it didn't matter if there was a significant time delay between the paint drying and the engine being started to hot it up and cure it. And also because it can be touched up after it has cured. Good job too since my greasy paw prints are now cured into the finish
Chassis was done with the POR15 products
Marine clean to degrease
Rust and paint removal etc then another marine clean
Metal Ready to prep the rust and metal
2 coats of silver POR15
1 coat of their self etch primer
2 coats of white hammerite
Close up there are brush marks in the hammerite but I didn't expect to get a spray quality finish from hand brushing
The main aim was to give the chassis a few more years before a body off restoration is required.
The coolant pipes were done with black POR15 which produces a superb glossy finish.
The coolant rails and the metal pipes under the battery that go to the heater were treated with silver POR 15 where they had gone rusty.
Internally the coolant pipes were fine so I didn't bother replacing them.
All the brackets - condenser, receiver drier, PAS resevoir etc were done in silver and the steering rod, ARB, engine mounts in black
Still had some paint left so the rear closing plate is now silver
I did the rear suspension last year with the same treatment and it still looks really good when the road grime is cleaned off.
Edited by mikesr on Sunday 18th May 17:20
I got my POR15 supplies from Frosts
I did read some horror stories of POR15 peeling off so I followed the instructions to the letter including marine cleaning and using Metal Ready. This and the need for the self etch primer before top coats can be applied makes for a fairly lengthy preparation and painting but will hopefully ensure it lasts for a few years.
Have a look at the POR15 site for details of the products and instructions.
TT Tim used epoxy mastic IIRC. So an alternative to consider. Not sure if he applied 1 or 2 coats but I don't believe it needs a primer. Have a look at his site for some great pics of his project here.
Incidentally the rust buster he used is very like the metal ready from the POR15 products but a fair bit cheaper.
The only thing I wouldn't do again is use white hammerite satin as the top coat. It chips very easily. If I do any more work I will source a decent white 1 or 2 part epoxy paint. The pic of coolant hoses and frame shows mysterious dark lines on the top of the tubes. These are scratches caused by the plastic tray my 6 year old was sitting on when he was 'spannering' (we were putting the condenser back in and he wanted to be in the thick of the action)
The hammerite finish isn't great close up but the coolant swan necks (in black POR15) are really good considering the amount of pitting. The POR15 runs very smoothly into all the pits and crevices and leaves a very slick glossy finish. The hammerite is much thicker and doesn't run and find a level as easily. So the top finish is showing brush marks and variation in colour depth.
Having said that I didn't expect a pristine finish. I put the main effort into the preparation and POR15 application. I can always go over it all again sanding down and repainting if I want a better top coat finish. The top coat is there to provide UV protection that the POR15 paint doesn't have. Apparently in direct light the POR15 colour will fade.
And finally have a read of this review although it is on the review winners site...
I did read some horror stories of POR15 peeling off so I followed the instructions to the letter including marine cleaning and using Metal Ready. This and the need for the self etch primer before top coats can be applied makes for a fairly lengthy preparation and painting but will hopefully ensure it lasts for a few years.
Have a look at the POR15 site for details of the products and instructions.
TT Tim used epoxy mastic IIRC. So an alternative to consider. Not sure if he applied 1 or 2 coats but I don't believe it needs a primer. Have a look at his site for some great pics of his project here.
Incidentally the rust buster he used is very like the metal ready from the POR15 products but a fair bit cheaper.
The only thing I wouldn't do again is use white hammerite satin as the top coat. It chips very easily. If I do any more work I will source a decent white 1 or 2 part epoxy paint. The pic of coolant hoses and frame shows mysterious dark lines on the top of the tubes. These are scratches caused by the plastic tray my 6 year old was sitting on when he was 'spannering' (we were putting the condenser back in and he wanted to be in the thick of the action
)The hammerite finish isn't great close up but the coolant swan necks (in black POR15) are really good considering the amount of pitting. The POR15 runs very smoothly into all the pits and crevices and leaves a very slick glossy finish. The hammerite is much thicker and doesn't run and find a level as easily. So the top finish is showing brush marks and variation in colour depth.
Having said that I didn't expect a pristine finish. I put the main effort into the preparation and POR15 application. I can always go over it all again sanding down and repainting if I want a better top coat finish. The top coat is there to provide UV protection that the POR15 paint doesn't have. Apparently in direct light the POR15 colour will fade.
And finally have a read of this review although it is on the review winners site...
Edited by mikesr on Sunday 18th May 22:34
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