Discussion
warpig said:
so why would some one have speced one in my car,
erm they were std fit on sp6 models at least in the early days, later on TVR possibly saved some money per car and fitted the std (much better) friction diff as std but certainly in the early sp6 days hydratrak was std fit. Like I said the sp6 cars have lower ratio diffs to make them quicker than they would otherwise have been with the V8ratio.trackcar said:
warpig said:
so why would some one have speced one in my car,
erm they were std fit on sp6 models at least in the early days, later on TVR possibly saved some money per car and fitted the std (much better) friction diff as std but certainly in the early sp6 days hydratrak was std fit. Like I said the sp6 cars have lower ratio diffs to make them quicker than they would otherwise have been with the V8ratio.Also, I thought all contemporary TVR's only ever had either a hydratrak lsd or a (BTR?) open diff?
magazines are often incorrect, but then so am I 
but all the early SP6 cars I saw had hydratraks fitted. They weren't std fit on 4.2 cerberas though they were an option. 4.5s had them as std. The std diff is a LSD aswell but a friction type and much better for it, the hydratrak versions are the work of the devil himself and they are designed to limit your fun by allowing one wheel to spin up .. in that respect they behave more like an open diff. Where they were fitted as an option it is questionable whether it's an improvement ..
but all the early SP6 cars I saw had hydratraks fitted. They weren't std fit on 4.2 cerberas though they were an option. 4.5s had them as std. The std diff is a LSD aswell but a friction type and much better for it, the hydratrak versions are the work of the devil himself and they are designed to limit your fun by allowing one wheel to spin up .. in that respect they behave more like an open diff. Where they were fitted as an option it is questionable whether it's an improvement ..trackcar said:
magazines are often incorrect, but then so am I but all the early SP6 cars I saw had hydratraks fitted. They weren't std fit on 4.2 cerberas though they were an option. 4.5s had them as std. The std diff is a LSD aswell but a friction type and much better for it, the hydratrak versions are the work of the devil himself and they are designed to limit your fun by allowing one wheel to spin up .. in that respect they behave more like an open diff. Where they were fitted as an option it is questionable whether it's an improvement ..
I've just bought an S6 with a hydratrack diff and it and was told by the second owner (TVR being the first owner) that it was an extra, this is a '99 car. but all the early SP6 cars I saw had hydratraks fitted. They weren't std fit on 4.2 cerberas though they were an option. 4.5s had them as std. The std diff is a LSD aswell but a friction type and much better for it, the hydratrak versions are the work of the devil himself and they are designed to limit your fun by allowing one wheel to spin up .. in that respect they behave more like an open diff. Where they were fitted as an option it is questionable whether it's an improvement ..My Cerb SP6 which I was told it was a 1999 when I bought it seems to be a very early one, it is registred in may 1999 but the chassis is built in 1998.
It has the same springs and dampers as a 4.5, the normal BTR diff, 2 turns look to look steering instead of the 2.5 turns as some magazines say, and so on. It seems as that the only differencies is the engine and other tyres, 225/50 16 all around.
I also have a early version of the SP6 engine which differs some from the later ones, I have started a topic about it on the SP6 forum.
It has the same springs and dampers as a 4.5, the normal BTR diff, 2 turns look to look steering instead of the 2.5 turns as some magazines say, and so on. It seems as that the only differencies is the engine and other tyres, 225/50 16 all around.
I also have a early version of the SP6 engine which differs some from the later ones, I have started a topic about it on the SP6 forum.
Peppe said:
My Cerb SP6 which I was told it was a 1999 when I bought it seems to be a very early one, it is registred in may 1999 but the chassis is built in 1998.
It has the same springs and dampers as a 4.5, the normal BTR diff, 2 turns look to look steering instead of the 2.5 turns as some magazines say, and so on. It seems as that the only differencies is the engine and other tyres, 225/50 16 all around.
I also have a early version of the SP6 engine which differs some from the later ones, I have started a topic about it on the SP6 forum.
This is because the first 20 or so were built based on the V8 models, just been informed tonight as i have the same setup as you. but with a new engine in.It has the same springs and dampers as a 4.5, the normal BTR diff, 2 turns look to look steering instead of the 2.5 turns as some magazines say, and so on. It seems as that the only differencies is the engine and other tyres, 225/50 16 all around.
I also have a early version of the SP6 engine which differs some from the later ones, I have started a topic about it on the SP6 forum.
So you have all the running gear of the V8 with the S6 engine in
Edited by WorAl on Wednesday 20th August 22:41
Phil_D said:
Anyone have a proper diff for sale ??? I have a Hydratrack unit and tbh find it useless...
Racing Green offer a quaife upgrade for the hydratrak. Should be very good:http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
The hydratrak is rubbish because its a speed sensitive diff, meaning that it transfers power to the non spinning wheel depending on how fast the spinning wheel is spinning ..
this means that you have two courses of action to get a cerb accelerating .. either back off the throttle to get the spinning wheel under control, or add more throttle to make the spinning wheel spin faster. The first course of action is the safer of the two, but you might as well just have an open diff in that case.
If you add more throttle to get more power to the non-spinning wheel it might then spin up itself at which point you have both wheels spinning very quickly and you might find yourself in the hedge backwards. As a supposed safety item it's pile of poo in many peoples opinion and ruins a lot of fun.
this means that you have two courses of action to get a cerb accelerating .. either back off the throttle to get the spinning wheel under control, or add more throttle to make the spinning wheel spin faster. The first course of action is the safer of the two, but you might as well just have an open diff in that case.
If you add more throttle to get more power to the non-spinning wheel it might then spin up itself at which point you have both wheels spinning very quickly and you might find yourself in the hedge backwards. As a supposed safety item it's pile of poo in many peoples opinion and ruins a lot of fun.
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