Discussion
It's slow, tedious and fiddly.
But it's not technically difficult.
Oh, and it's a very dirty job.
If you have someone with you to take pictures you'll be fine.
Otherwise you'll give up taking them after the first few 'cos washing your hands every couple of minutes will be taking up too much time.
Enjoy ..... it's worth the effort.
But it's not technically difficult.
Oh, and it's a very dirty job.
If you have someone with you to take pictures you'll be fine.
Otherwise you'll give up taking them after the first few 'cos washing your hands every couple of minutes will be taking up too much time.
Enjoy ..... it's worth the effort.
Well i have the front ones all changed, but bloody hell they were tight! i was trying to knock them out with a socket the same size and a huge sledge hammer and they still wouldn't budge, then tried to press them out and that didn't work, in the end i set fire to the rubbers and let them burn away outside, then cut them out.
And i cant for love nor money get the top one out, Ive left it for today and will go back tomorrow for a fresh start, i have tried a drift (with the same sledge hammer) and got nothing, I have burnt the centre bar out (being very careful as its bloody close to the fuel tank)
I think I'm going to slowly burn the rubber out then cut it out, just need a better saw.
I have taken quite a few pictures and ill start a new thread with a write up of what i did (providing i can get this last bush out!
And i cant for love nor money get the top one out, Ive left it for today and will go back tomorrow for a fresh start, i have tried a drift (with the same sledge hammer) and got nothing, I have burnt the centre bar out (being very careful as its bloody close to the fuel tank)
I think I'm going to slowly burn the rubber out then cut it out, just need a better saw.
I have taken quite a few pictures and ill start a new thread with a write up of what i did (providing i can get this last bush out!
brakedust300 said:
Well i have the front ones all changed, but bloody hell they were tight! i was trying to knock them out with a socket the same size and a huge sledge hammer and they still wouldn't budge, then tried to press them out and that didn't work, in the end i set fire to the rubbers and let them burn away outside, then cut them out.
And i cant for love nor money get the top one out, Ive left it for today and will go back tomorrow for a fresh start, i have tried a drift (with the same sledge hammer) and got nothing, I have burnt the centre bar out (being very careful as its bloody close to the fuel tank)
I think I'm going to slowly burn the rubber out then cut it out, just need a better saw.
I have taken quite a few pictures and ill start a new thread with a write up of what i did (providing i can get this last bush out!
I remember that feeling.And i cant for love nor money get the top one out, Ive left it for today and will go back tomorrow for a fresh start, i have tried a drift (with the same sledge hammer) and got nothing, I have burnt the centre bar out (being very careful as its bloody close to the fuel tank)
I think I'm going to slowly burn the rubber out then cut it out, just need a better saw.
I have taken quite a few pictures and ill start a new thread with a write up of what i did (providing i can get this last bush out!
Try a hacksaw blade with insulating tape on it (to save your hands).
It might work.
If you can get an air chisel and work from both sides alternately it should shift for you ..... eventually.
The "threaded bar" trick should make fitting the new one a doddle.
Oh, and you'll need to bring a piece of paper with you tomorrow for setting the clearance on the speedo sensor.
It needs to be really close to the slots to get it to read.
The thickness of a piece of paper is spot on for setting it.
Brett
If you have a socket the right size to push it out, can you get a bolt through the socket and use a larger socket on the other side to allow you to pull it out?? Once the bolt it tight, a bit of heat on the outer mount to expand it might just do it?
I would not have thought hitting the diff mounts with a sledge is not a good idea, you may damage them??
Anyway good luck!!
Steve
If you have a socket the right size to push it out, can you get a bolt through the socket and use a larger socket on the other side to allow you to pull it out?? Once the bolt it tight, a bit of heat on the outer mount to expand it might just do it?
I would not have thought hitting the diff mounts with a sledge is not a good idea, you may damage them??
Anyway good luck!!
Steve
Ireland said:
It's slow, tedious and fiddly.
But it's not technically difficult.
Oh, and it's a very dirty job.
If you have someone with you to take pictures you'll be fine.
Otherwise you'll give up taking them after the first few 'cos washing your hands every couple of minutes will be taking up too much time.
Enjoy ..... it's worth the effort.
Tape a plastic bag around the camera being careful to leave the lens, focus IR sensor and flash uncovered. Should keep the camera fairly clean even with dirty hands.But it's not technically difficult.
Oh, and it's a very dirty job.
If you have someone with you to take pictures you'll be fine.
Otherwise you'll give up taking them after the first few 'cos washing your hands every couple of minutes will be taking up too much time.
Enjoy ..... it's worth the effort.
Another obvious method is to use gloves. I now use nitrile surgeons gloves for anything involving oil, grease, paint etc. They are available from most agricultural machinery dealers for about £5 / 100
PS. Make sure camera battery fully charged before taping bag on.

Ireland said:
brakedust300 said:
Well i have the front ones all changed, but bloody hell they were tight! i was trying to knock them out with a socket the same size and a huge sledge hammer and they still wouldn't budge, then tried to press them out and that didn't work, in the end i set fire to the rubbers and let them burn away outside, then cut them out.
And i cant for love nor money get the top one out, Ive left it for today and will go back tomorrow for a fresh start, i have tried a drift (with the same sledge hammer) and got nothing, I have burnt the centre bar out (being very careful as its bloody close to the fuel tank)
I think I'm going to slowly burn the rubber out then cut it out, just need a better saw.
I have taken quite a few pictures and ill start a new thread with a write up of what i did (providing i can get this last bush out!
I remember that feeling.And i cant for love nor money get the top one out, Ive left it for today and will go back tomorrow for a fresh start, i have tried a drift (with the same sledge hammer) and got nothing, I have burnt the centre bar out (being very careful as its bloody close to the fuel tank)
I think I'm going to slowly burn the rubber out then cut it out, just need a better saw.
I have taken quite a few pictures and ill start a new thread with a write up of what i did (providing i can get this last bush out!
Try a hacksaw blade with insulating tape on it (to save your hands).
It might work.
If you can get an air chisel and work from both sides alternately it should shift for you ..... eventually.
The "threaded bar" trick should make fitting the new one a doddle.
Oh, and you'll need to bring a piece of paper with you tomorrow for setting the clearance on the speedo sensor.
It needs to be really close to the slots to get it to read.
The thickness of a piece of paper is spot on for setting it.
Could this be the reason that my speedo doesn't register until about 30 mph. It has always been like it so I asumed it was a case of "they all do that".
I've just finished changing the rear diff mount too, and I managed it with the diff in place, however it was a real PITA of a job, and not one I'd like to do again. I changed the bush and the bracket, as the bush was knackered which had caused the bracket to twist and deform. Here's how I did it;
1. Use a small blow torch to heat the inner sleeve - then tap it out using a drift. Fairly easy.
2. To remove the rubber I used an air sabre saw. This fed in from the side through the wheelarches and there was enough movement to cut the rubber into 'wedges'. I then tapped them out with a chisel and hammer.
3. The metal outer sleeve was the hardest by far. Again, the sabre saw cut through it fine, but the sleeve was rusted into the chassis and so didn't just pop out. After lots of work with a chisel/screwdriver and extension bars etc it eventually came out, albeit in a mangled mess. Took about 4-5 hours alone! An air chisel would be better, but as I left the diff in there wasn't room.
4. I bought a poly bush from Racing Green that assembles in two parts, thus is just slipped in no problems. In order the get the bracket in place though, I had to remove the front two mounting plates to allow the diff to move forward sufficiently.
Overall a nasty little job, so lots of patience required!
1. Use a small blow torch to heat the inner sleeve - then tap it out using a drift. Fairly easy.
2. To remove the rubber I used an air sabre saw. This fed in from the side through the wheelarches and there was enough movement to cut the rubber into 'wedges'. I then tapped them out with a chisel and hammer.
3. The metal outer sleeve was the hardest by far. Again, the sabre saw cut through it fine, but the sleeve was rusted into the chassis and so didn't just pop out. After lots of work with a chisel/screwdriver and extension bars etc it eventually came out, albeit in a mangled mess. Took about 4-5 hours alone! An air chisel would be better, but as I left the diff in there wasn't room.
4. I bought a poly bush from Racing Green that assembles in two parts, thus is just slipped in no problems. In order the get the bracket in place though, I had to remove the front two mounting plates to allow the diff to move forward sufficiently.
Overall a nasty little job, so lots of patience required!
Edited by longbow on Sunday 5th October 15:21
caduceus said:
I thought you'd changed the diff bushes when the body was off Wins?
Funny old thing, but that was ONE job I skimped on, and it came back to bite me!Brumm, I think you're right - the bracket isn't strong enough period, especially with the amount of torque your engine puts out. I'll check it again in a year or so and see if mine has deformed again.
Storer said:
Ireland
Could this be the reason that my speedo doesn't register until about 30 mph. It has always been like it so I asumed it was a case of "they all do that".
Mine reads straight away once I start moving.Could this be the reason that my speedo doesn't register until about 30 mph. It has always been like it so I asumed it was a case of "they all do that".
It's simple to adjust it so it's probably worth your while trying it.
All you need to do it is a pipe pliers to loosen / tighten the locking nut (and the piece of paper).
Oh, and don't forget to unplug the jack-plug on the cable before you go twisting it so as not to cause any damage.
well it's finaly all done, was up till 5am!
Had a nightmare getting one of the front bushes lined up, I'll post all the pictures up on sat as I'm away all this week, I did it with the diff still fitted as I didn't have anyone to help me get it out, I'll post a list of all the tools I used as well.
Cheers for the tips guys, came in handy!
Had a nightmare getting one of the front bushes lined up, I'll post all the pictures up on sat as I'm away all this week, I did it with the diff still fitted as I didn't have anyone to help me get it out, I'll post a list of all the tools I used as well.
Cheers for the tips guys, came in handy!
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