A question for Longbow
Discussion
Yep. As I'm under the car quite often I always have a good look at the chassis. Naturally it gets dirty from dust and grime etc but if you take a rag and some solvent to it, the chassis always comes up like the day it was painted. Better still, there are a few very small areas where the powder coating has been chipped off - along the underside of the rear anti-roll bar for instance - and the Zinga coating underneath has completely prevented any rusting of the metal. Aside from recently having to change the rear diff mount (about the only job I didn't do when I had the chassis out!), the car has been faultless.
Mine has done 18 months and 10K miles, i also had two coats of zinc primer when i recon'd mine, It comes up lovely with a rub down. Mind you the Pas rack gently p!ssing out throughout its time on the road has helped with rust proofing the front end while the diff looks after the rear! Seriously though its all you need to do to make a chassis rust proof is do the job properly, if TVR had just spent another £200 a car alot of us would not be dreading impending rebuild.
Storer said:
Did you clean the chassis and apply the the zinga coating yourself or was this all done by the company that did the powder coating?
I supplier the Zinga and the solvent required to spray it, and the company blasted the chassis, applied the Zinga and then powdercoated ontop to give it the blue colour.I agree with Brummie in that a little bit more £££'s spent during production would have stopped the problem dead. The Zinga coating (or equivalent galvanic coating) effectively prevents rusting for over 50 years, which is long enough for me not to have to worry about it anymore! My biggest concern with my Cerb now is writing it off, or having someone crash into me and write the car off - either way, I wouldn't go through another 12 month rebuild to get another TVR to the same level. However, an LS conversion is something which is definitely on my radar...........
Edited by longbow on Wednesday 8th October 13:19
I agree that the extra money spent at manufacture would have avoided the problem but the same can be said about most parts of any TVR (and most other car makers). But £200 here and a few £'s extra there soon adds up to a much more expensive car which prices them out of the market they are aiming for.
The only consolation is that the more Cerberas that rot away or end up at Douglas Valley the more the remaining cars are worth.
The only consolation is that the more Cerberas that rot away or end up at Douglas Valley the more the remaining cars are worth.
Depends how thoroughly you're going to do it - if you're going to remove the chassis and get it blasted, a layer of Zinga is all you'll need, the powdercoating added the colour and another layer of protection. POR15 is also very effective, but more commonly used for touch-ups. If you go here and have a read, it's all quite interesting stuff.... http://www.zinga-uk.com/
Excellent stuff Longbow, just had a read up on the Zinger website, sounds like the perfect solution as its almost self repairing (up to a point) which is exactly what you need on the underside of a car. I am very encouraged by your experience if its held up that well, makes me think might be worth going the whole hog and having the chassis sand blasted if the end result is so good.
I'm not mistaken am I, it is about two years since you did it?
I'm not mistaken am I, it is about two years since you did it?
MackemPete said:
Longbow, I'm going to do my chassis this winter. I was going to just use POR15 do you think it would be worth treating it with zinga first then using the POR15 as a protective outer coating?
I did something like this - sandblast, 2 x cold spray zinc coating, por15 over the top. Por15 gives a hard wearing top coat, zinc gives the sacrificial rust protection if the por15 gets chipped. Take your pick of methods - they'll all work for decades and they're all a million times better than just powder coating bare metal!longbow said:
Storer said:
Did you clean the chassis and apply the the zinga coating yourself or was this all done by the company that did the powder coating?
I supplier the Zinga and the solvent required to spray it, and the company blasted the chassis, applied the Zinga and then powdercoated ontop to give it the blue colour.I agree with Brummie in that a little bit more £££'s spent during production would have stopped the problem dead. The Zinga coating (or equivalent galvanic coating) effectively prevents rusting for over 50 years, which is long enough for me not to have to worry about it anymore! My biggest concern with my Cerb now is writing it off, or having someone crash into me and write the car off - either way, I wouldn't go through another 12 month rebuild to get another TVR to the same level. However, an LS conversion is something which is definitely on my radar...........
Edited by longbow on Wednesday 8th October 13:19
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