Clutch Buried Into Carpet
Discussion
Hello all,
Have noticed recently that I'm finding it harder and harder to engage gears.
There's no crunching and no graunching, and no one gear is harder to engage than any other.
They just seem to be notchy and then go in.
Had the clutch replaced 2 years ago and have always treated it with respect.
The car doesn't move forward with the clucth engaged and in gear, and the clutch fluid level is ok.
The one thing I have noticed is that if I bury the clutch right in to the carpet the gears seem to engage almost normally.
It's as if, had I another inch to puch the clutch pedal, the gears would engage as normal.
It feels as if the travel of the clutch pedal isn't quite enough to completely disengage the clutch, just enough to change gear notchily.
Any ideas?
MB
Have noticed recently that I'm finding it harder and harder to engage gears.
There's no crunching and no graunching, and no one gear is harder to engage than any other.
They just seem to be notchy and then go in.
Had the clutch replaced 2 years ago and have always treated it with respect.
The car doesn't move forward with the clucth engaged and in gear, and the clutch fluid level is ok.
The one thing I have noticed is that if I bury the clutch right in to the carpet the gears seem to engage almost normally.
It's as if, had I another inch to puch the clutch pedal, the gears would engage as normal.
It feels as if the travel of the clutch pedal isn't quite enough to completely disengage the clutch, just enough to change gear notchily.
Any ideas?
MB
marcus1970 said:
Extra 300 Driver said:
Maybe you need to adjust it? I mean adjust the input rod in to the master cylinder?
I did this on mine, over time it had gone out of adjustment
Don't suppose you could explain in a bit more detail what I have to do.I did this on mine, over time it had gone out of adjustment
Please...
Cheers
MB
I found that my old car needed this adjusting, the bite point had gradually moved further and further down the pedal, not because there was anything wrong but it was just wearing, it had done about 30k.
So this is how I went about it.
Locate the clutch input shaft at the top of the clutch pedal
Undo the locking nut (1/2inAF or 13mm) which is on the shaft and wind it all the way back down the shaft until the end of the thread, nearest the actual cylinder
Rotate the shaft as if you want to take the shaft out, so the shaft is getting longer and the pedal is moving towards the driver’s seat. Only do about 5 revolutions at a time
Start the car and try and engage 1st, if the bitting point doesn’t seem to have moved rotate the shaft another 5 or so turns
Continue this until the bite point is further up the pedal, but not at the top. (About half way)
Once you are happy, tighten the licking nut and hay presto!
Warning about the fingers
I have always suspected that you can accelerate the failure of the clutch fingers by over adjusting the clutch, so you are throwing the release bearing too far out, putting too much stress on the fingers and causing them to fail. When I adjusted my clutch I had the bitting point just under half way up but still comfortable, without causing any graunching of the gears. Other people I know have adjusted their clutch pedal so the bite point is right at the top and their fingers have failed within 5000 miles, as I think they are over disengaging the clutch (throwing it too far) it may be unrelated but I didn’t want to take the gamble so my bite was near the bottom of the middle.
I am not guaranteeing this is the fix, but with the TVR clutch not self adjusting you have to do this now and again, it should be picked up on a service.
Let me know how you get on,
Nick
Mine had exactly the same problem/feel just over a month ago - a couple of hoons later and I couldn't engage 1st or 5th - 2 weeks on.
I drove it down to APM late last week (gears came back but still felt very notchy).
Will report on solution when I get the dreaded phone call - fingers/forks seems initial diagnosis.
D.
I drove it down to APM late last week (gears came back but still felt very notchy).
Will report on solution when I get the dreaded phone call - fingers/forks seems initial diagnosis.
D.
DonnyMac said:
Just got her back.
A finger snapped off the clutch.
New clutch, slaves, lightweight flyweel etc. etc.
45k+ miles on the old original clutch which is no longer made, hence all the new bits.
Only 1 ?A finger snapped off the clutch.
New clutch, slaves, lightweight flyweel etc. etc.
45k+ miles on the old original clutch which is no longer made, hence all the new bits.
Last had mine replaced a couple of years ago and I only had a few left - must have been a bout 15 missing!
How much did that lot set you back?
Did you get an uprated clutch?
MB
Yep, just the one - fell inside, hence all the mayhem.
I don't know if it's uprated, but I've now got the teflon coated (sounds good eh??) new AP Racing clutch combined with a lightweight flywheel - which apparently allows the engine to rev quicker (or something like that).
£1400+vat give or take a few quid.
I don't know if it's uprated, but I've now got the teflon coated (sounds good eh??) new AP Racing clutch combined with a lightweight flywheel - which apparently allows the engine to rev quicker (or something like that).
£1400+vat give or take a few quid.
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