Discussion
Battery has run flat and I'm struggling to get it started. I've tried to jump start it off a Honda Civic, but even revving the latter doesn't get the Cerb turning over. New battery was fitted a few months ago.
I'm thinking it may be an immobiliser thing - as the doors aren't shutting flush at the moment, so I'm not getting the flashing lights when I try to alarm/dealarm it. I am however getting the trusty 15-second 'blip blip' noise when I've tried and failed to get it going,
Checked the connections and they look fine - so any ideas?
Note to self: Get some current run to the garage and buy a trickle charger .
I'm thinking it may be an immobiliser thing - as the doors aren't shutting flush at the moment, so I'm not getting the flashing lights when I try to alarm/dealarm it. I am however getting the trusty 15-second 'blip blip' noise when I've tried and failed to get it going,
Checked the connections and they look fine - so any ideas?
Note to self: Get some current run to the garage and buy a trickle charger .
One of the common faults when fitting a new battery is not cleaning the terminals on both the battery and the connections, this has the effect of not letting the full power of the battery through, it also has the effect of not letting the alternator charge the battery to it's full potential, just one point to note if it is not a fault on the alarm or the doors that were motioned above.
Cheers for all suggestions.
The fuel pump primes but nothing from the starter. My thinking is a meatier battery than the nearly dead one on my ZX is needed, although the fact I can't get the windows down also makes me think it may be alarm related, due to the doors not being flush shut (so I can't set and reset the alarm). They're getting there though - a couple of warm days needed I reckon - but when I pop the doors open the window isn't dropping.
jammy_basturd said:
My first check would be the big fuse, do you know when it was last replaced? Does the starter try and engage when you hit the button? Can you hear the fuel pump priming?
I've checked the fuse box but not the big fuse. I've had the car nearly a year and I didn't ask the previous owner when it was done. Anyone got any pics/suggestions of how to get at it? The fuel pump primes but nothing from the starter. My thinking is a meatier battery than the nearly dead one on my ZX is needed, although the fact I can't get the windows down also makes me think it may be alarm related, due to the doors not being flush shut (so I can't set and reset the alarm). They're getting there though - a couple of warm days needed I reckon - but when I pop the doors open the window isn't dropping.
Extra 300 Driver said:
Are you connecting the earth to the battery or to the top of the AC compressor? Which ever you are doing try it the other way, so if you are using the AC compressor use the battery for the earth.
I'm connecting the earth to the chassis behind the nsf wheel (I've started it this way before without problems when I've had a flat battery before). You reckon there's a better earthing point then? bobbins said:
Cheers for the pic Kev.
Battery spanking new in September - you wouldn't know it now though. Need to find the receipt for it.
I have had two batteries (not for the TVRs) and they packed up after about two weeks, they both dropped a cell, both were replaced under the warranty, so just because it's new doesn't mean it will last a long time.Battery spanking new in September - you wouldn't know it now though. Need to find the receipt for it.
Big fuse is on charge circuit not start circuit, so a few red herrings here methinks.
You say 'nothing from starter'. Sounds like knackered solenoid, or usual Imobiliser issue. If it does not click at all, then unlikely the battery. If it is clicking but not starting, then you can start going down the battery and connections route
If interior lights are nice and bright when you get in, window drops etc, it should start on a cold engine.
You say 'nothing from starter'. Sounds like knackered solenoid, or usual Imobiliser issue. If it does not click at all, then unlikely the battery. If it is clicking but not starting, then you can start going down the battery and connections route
If interior lights are nice and bright when you get in, window drops etc, it should start on a cold engine.
I've tried starting it with the other car revving at 3,500k+. The battery on that car isn't the strongest, but I still can't get the engine to turn over. I also tried it off a stronger battery yesterday and still no joy. I'm getting the ignition and battery lights coming on on the dash but just no click - can only hear the fuel pump priming.
There must be a bit of life in the battery cos headlights, fogs, stereo, heater, aircon and stereo all work - but the windows won't, which makes me think the immobiliser or alarm could have something to do with it.
I'll get the battery on charge for a good few hours, then hopefully will get the doors properly shut so the alarm resets.
I don't need to use it at the moment so have time to get to the bottom of the problem before I have to go down the route of throwing £££s at getting it transported to the garage and fixed.
There must be a bit of life in the battery cos headlights, fogs, stereo, heater, aircon and stereo all work - but the windows won't, which makes me think the immobiliser or alarm could have something to do with it.
I'll get the battery on charge for a good few hours, then hopefully will get the doors properly shut so the alarm resets.
I don't need to use it at the moment so have time to get to the bottom of the problem before I have to go down the route of throwing £££s at getting it transported to the garage and fixed.
I think the immobiliser cuts three circuits.
Fuel pump - You can hear it running.
Ignition - MIL light comes on and buzzer sounds.
Starter motor - It click and/or cranks.
Either one will obviously stop the car running.
They can be bypassed and the starter one seems to have caused a lot of problems.
Fuel pump - You can hear it running.
Ignition - MIL light comes on and buzzer sounds.
Starter motor - It click and/or cranks.
Either one will obviously stop the car running.
They can be bypassed and the starter one seems to have caused a lot of problems.
insert your immobiliser key in the female socket on the dashboard so that it is bypassed and let the jump car rev at 3500k while connected to the cerb for a few minutes then try it. leave the cerb off completley while jump car is running some charge through, after a few mins get, have someone continue rev the jump car and get in the cerb and by pass immobilser with the immobiliser fob and start the car.
that worked for me when i had alarm issues and a flat battery, all sorted now but battery is knackered. looses charge after 3 days with this cold and no use.
that worked for me when i had alarm issues and a flat battery, all sorted now but battery is knackered. looses charge after 3 days with this cold and no use.
You can try bypassing the starter motor circuit by simply stripping the insilation off about an inch of the correct wires to the immobiliser (check a wiring diagram to make sure which ones) and just twist the cables together to try it.
If it works / doesn't work you can join the cables / re-insulate them as necessary.
Oh, and take out the battery and charge it fully before you try anything else.
That might just make a big difference.
If it works / doesn't work you can join the cables / re-insulate them as necessary.
Oh, and take out the battery and charge it fully before you try anything else.
That might just make a big difference.
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