Discussion
Popped out for a blast last night, drove to a petrol station about 15 mins away, a few mins after leaving I noticed the rev counter was not working and the dash lights seemed dimmer, the car also seemed to be juddering slightly, pulled off at the next junction and the engine died as I was slowing down, fortunately made it to a layby where we tried to jump start it, but had no luck so called the AA out to get me home. This morning I removed the battery and gave it a good charge and it started fine but the revcounter was still not working. Changed the big fuse and the rev counter was still not working. I was thinking of getting a new holder and trying that but is there anything else it could be? Will also change the battery for a nice heavy duty one soon.
optimax sniffer said:
To confirm if the big fuse is at fault, I guess that you could connect the two cables together temporarily to see if the fault goes away................
Agree with this, don't junk the Alternator until you have done this as a resistive fuse would give you a voltage drop too. knight said:
11.9 volts with the engine running. Had the battery charging yesterday for at least 4 hours so I'd thought that would have given me a decent charge. Does this sound definately like the alternator?
A good battery should give you 12.4 volts at least.If it is left below 12.4 volts the battery will be damaged eventually.
You need 10-20% more than the voltage of the battery to charge it.
So in the case of a 12V battery, Between 13.2 & 14.4 volts to charge.
As mentioned above, if you suspect the fuse. Put the Red lead of your multimeter on the alternator side of the fuse & test it there. If it's still below 13.2 V with a few revs, then it'll confirm your Alternator's duff.
So in the case of a 12V battery, Between 13.2 & 14.4 volts to charge.
As mentioned above, if you suspect the fuse. Put the Red lead of your multimeter on the alternator side of the fuse & test it there. If it's still below 13.2 V with a few revs, then it'll confirm your Alternator's duff.
Toadusmodus said:
And remember the Cerb alt does not provide enough at idle, only around 12v and sometimes less with an electrical load on. Needs about 1500rpm to show whether its pumping out enough juice (as already said 13V +)
Yep am aware of that, will be checking it on my own so I have got my 3 hands ready to take the reading!! 
Wouldn't start earlier so its now on charge before I can check the voltage! Think I might bite the bullet and get a new battery as this one seem to be suffering!
As an aside, how easy a job is it to remove/refit the alternator? I have an early 4.2 with A/C, and was planning on getting the alt overhauled by an auto electrician.
As an aside, how easy a job is it to remove/refit the alternator? I have an early 4.2 with A/C, and was planning on getting the alt overhauled by an auto electrician.
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