chasis rust/ body removal
Discussion
Everyone wants to know and would love to attempt this, but the facts are spread out all over the place. For those DIY'er cerb owners we need a tutorial or a guide. It may provide confidence to others who are scared to take their pride and joy to bits and also may help others keep their cerbs on the road and keep the chasis strong and slighlty non-cancerous (rust).
can we keep just facts here!
A : what exactly is involved in removing body? (bolts,wires,dash,seats, engine,hoses etc)
B : can the common rusty areas be cleaned and repaired without removing the body? (can we unbolt the chasis and jack it up 2 inches for slight access or inspection)
c : Whats the best way of getting rid of the rust on the riggers and other chassis parts. (girnd/blast/weld/zinc coat/paint/waxoyl etc)
D : Can we make or are there any improvents to the body/chasis to stop the build up of muck and water in these spots?
Pictures paint a thousand words as allways. please dont fill the thread with other junk as its hard work for others having to sift through and read 20 pages or so just find out on how to remove the body etc.
I will start off with what I know.
1. From underneath the car, there are bolts in all 4 corners of the floor pan/chasis. undo these to start.
can we keep just facts here!
A : what exactly is involved in removing body? (bolts,wires,dash,seats, engine,hoses etc)
B : can the common rusty areas be cleaned and repaired without removing the body? (can we unbolt the chasis and jack it up 2 inches for slight access or inspection)
c : Whats the best way of getting rid of the rust on the riggers and other chassis parts. (girnd/blast/weld/zinc coat/paint/waxoyl etc)
D : Can we make or are there any improvents to the body/chasis to stop the build up of muck and water in these spots?
Pictures paint a thousand words as allways. please dont fill the thread with other junk as its hard work for others having to sift through and read 20 pages or so just find out on how to remove the body etc.
I will start off with what I know.
1. From underneath the car, there are bolts in all 4 corners of the floor pan/chasis. undo these to start.
My contribution will be posting a link to the thread below which has the workshop manuals in it.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Sorry - cant comment of the body off part...looks more complicated that it would have done on my previous Chimaera (roll over bar...) but havent done either and hopefully wont have to any time soon.
I have however done a very minor repair to my chassis - the nearside outrigger at the front corner. For some reason the off side is alot better...only surface rust...due the the road dirt / crap on the near side perhaps..? Upon close inspection there was alot of surface rust / scale - after hacking around with hacksaw blades, screwdrivers, etc this developed into a small hole at the very bottom of the front tube. I ground out the corner triangular plate to reveal the bare tubes, ground away the rust back to bare metal, treated it and then welded in a plate. I then welded back in the triangular plate. This has now all been undercoated, painted, etc. This was all done without touching the body - just need to be careful with heat build up...keep stopping to allow the area to cool if neccessary. I think i was lucky and caught it just in time as I have seen pictures with far more extensive rust...if the rust was on the side of the tube or the top, I dont think this is an option...?
As for the rest of the outriggers, I have checked mine and they are fine...or appear to be. I have cleaned mine by pushing strips of sand paper or similar over the outrigger and pulling back and forth. Obviously you cant see whats going on but old paint and dirt are released.
Planning to paint the top of the out riggers with a siringe (spelling...?)with a plastic tube with holes in the end attached...this 'should' give a good coating of rust inhibitor, primer, then waxoyl.
Hope this is helpful...
I have however done a very minor repair to my chassis - the nearside outrigger at the front corner. For some reason the off side is alot better...only surface rust...due the the road dirt / crap on the near side perhaps..? Upon close inspection there was alot of surface rust / scale - after hacking around with hacksaw blades, screwdrivers, etc this developed into a small hole at the very bottom of the front tube. I ground out the corner triangular plate to reveal the bare tubes, ground away the rust back to bare metal, treated it and then welded in a plate. I then welded back in the triangular plate. This has now all been undercoated, painted, etc. This was all done without touching the body - just need to be careful with heat build up...keep stopping to allow the area to cool if neccessary. I think i was lucky and caught it just in time as I have seen pictures with far more extensive rust...if the rust was on the side of the tube or the top, I dont think this is an option...?
As for the rest of the outriggers, I have checked mine and they are fine...or appear to be. I have cleaned mine by pushing strips of sand paper or similar over the outrigger and pulling back and forth. Obviously you cant see whats going on but old paint and dirt are released.
Planning to paint the top of the out riggers with a siringe (spelling...?)with a plastic tube with holes in the end attached...this 'should' give a good coating of rust inhibitor, primer, then waxoyl.
Hope this is helpful...
To remove body...
Some 42 odd bolts have to be undone including the ones that hold the internal roll cage to the chassis.
All seats, seat belts have to be removed. Cubby hole and front dashes to get access to bolts behind them. Brake, clutch, fuel lines, steering column, wiring loom, coolant hoses, PAS hose oil cooler and air con hoses all need to be disconnected. Anything that attaches the chassis to the body needs to be disconnected. Fuel tank emptied and removed. Fuel pump and filter disconnected. It is easier if the engine and gearbox is taken out first.
No you can't jack the body up and get away with it as all this has to be done even to do this. Allocate 2 days to take off and 2 days to put back. Also need a lot of strong helpers (8 is a good number) or a lift.
Some 42 odd bolts have to be undone including the ones that hold the internal roll cage to the chassis.
All seats, seat belts have to be removed. Cubby hole and front dashes to get access to bolts behind them. Brake, clutch, fuel lines, steering column, wiring loom, coolant hoses, PAS hose oil cooler and air con hoses all need to be disconnected. Anything that attaches the chassis to the body needs to be disconnected. Fuel tank emptied and removed. Fuel pump and filter disconnected. It is easier if the engine and gearbox is taken out first.
No you can't jack the body up and get away with it as all this has to be done even to do this. Allocate 2 days to take off and 2 days to put back. Also need a lot of strong helpers (8 is a good number) or a lift.
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