engine mount replacement???

[cupra20v.t]

4.2 ...one of the rubbers on one side of my engine mountings is wobbly so i think its knackered as the other one is very rigid.


2 questions.

does the rubber mount detach from the mounting bracket

can i buy new rubber mounts or does it have to be new brackets too.

where can I get them from.

thanks in advance

[mikesr]

Yes it detaches from the bracket.
1 side of the rubber mount has a threaded hole that a bolt goes into to fasten it to the brackets that are bolted to the chassis rail.

The other side has a threaded rod protruding that screws into the mounting plates that bolt to the front of the engine.

I clamped the rubber mount in a vice and twisted the mounting plate to get them undone.

I think Clever Trevor and Racing Green and TVR Car parts all supply them.

[cupra20v.t]

i have the brackets off the car and engine, i can see the protuding threaded bar thats goes through the chasis. i did try unscrewing the bracket from the mount but the rubber semed to be moving rather than the mount body.


so to mount the rubber to the bracket a bolt goes through the bracket into the mount? or has the rubber mount got a threaded bar that screws into the bracket?

[mikesr]

Here is a pic of the mount from the Clever Trevor site



And here it is in place on my car before the repaint looking down onto the top of the chassis rail




On the left hand side is a bolt going into a the threaded hole

On the right hand side the threaded rod goes into the plate that bolts to the front of the engine

Now its all clean and shiny like this: -

Edited by mikesr on Thursday 5th March 18:56

[BMartinsWheels]

I just replaced mine. Sourced them through a local motor factors for £12 the pair.

[cupra20v.t]

I understand how the mount is in place etc as i had to remove it from the engine and chasis rail, i just think im going to have problems getting the mount of the bracket. a bit of heat maybe required.

[mikesr]

If you are replacing the rubber bits and repainting the metal work then heat is probably the easiest way to do it.

I plastered everything I was going to remove with a graphited penetrating oil and left it to work for a couple of weeks before dismantling.

[markh1]

I took my engine mount off last weekend. One of the rubber mounts came off really easily, the other was impossible to move. I tried heating the one that was difficult to move but the rubber started to melt. I also tried an oil filter wrench on it but to no avail. I have given up removing it and had the mount shot blasted with the rubber on. I will have to hand paint it but its no big deal.

[jammy_basturd]

Looks like there is a base metal disc that the rubber is bonded too? Could try cutting a notch in it, sticking a flat headed screwdriver into it then whacking it a few times?

[cupra20v.t]

I think thats my only option as the rubber is spinning around its tophat/spindle. so its going to be tapping it off with a chisel and hammer or welding something to the tophat for leverage and unscrewing the bugger, whilst giving the the bracket some heat so it expands.

I'll be using some copper grease on the threads when I install new ones tohough to save any future hassle

[markh1]

cupra20v.t said:

I think thats my only option as the rubber is spinning around its tophat/spindle. so its going to be tapping it off with a chisel and hammer or welding something to the tophat for leverage and unscrewing the bugger, whilst giving the the bracket some heat so it expands.

I'll be using some copper grease on the threads when I install new ones tohough to save any future hassle

I am going to be using copper slip too.

Steve Heath said that if you are using copper slip you need to reduce the torque on the bolts/nuts by 20-25%

[cupra20v.t]

reduce? I would have thought to increase torque as the bolt will have more tendancy to vibrate loose with copper grease on it.

[markh1]

cupra20v.t said:

reduce? I would have thought to increase torque as the bolt will have more tendancy to vibrate loose with copper grease on it.

I'm pretty sure thats what someone posted. I just tried to ring him but got his answerphone. I will try call him again later. I need to know myself as I am hopefully fitting the new bolts and wishbones tomorrow

edited to add; found the thread where it says to reduce the torque, scroll down to the bottom....

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Edited by markh1 on Friday 6th March 13:53

[rev-erend]

I bought new mounts from SC Power - made from Polyurethane rather than rubber.. so less
give.

Not too expensive either and less prone to failure than rubber with high bhp.

Don't know if they do Cerbera mounts though ?

They might be worth a call.

Cost is around £75 for a pair.

Edited by rev-erend on Friday 6th March 14:12

[cupra20v.t]

would prefer to uprate them to PE to be on the safe side and prevent me from going back to the same spot in future.

[rev-erend]

http://www.sc-power.co.uk/SC%20Power%20Engine%20Mo...

Does not look like they do cerb mounts .. but have a word - they may be more than happy to do those too.

Edited by rev-erend on Friday 6th March 20:45

[jammy_basturd]

I thought the engine mounts were quite a generic item/size, maybe a Land Rover part?! I wouldn't have thought finding a poly alternative would be too hard?

[plumAJP]

the picture of the mount shows one threaded bar. I'm sure mine has 2 threaded bars, one to go through the chasis bracket and one that screws into the engine bracket.

i have failed to unscrew my mount from the engine bracket and resulted to hacksawing it off. I now have the task of getting the bit of threaded bar out of the bracket.

so far welding a small nut to the protruding part has failed. ANY ideas anyone

also how do the mounts attach? from the pictures i can't work it out.

[plumAJP]

ive bought my 1 new mount from tvr power and ive compared it to the other sides mount and the new mount is smaller by 10-13mm. what do these parts differ?

only think i can think of is if the car had new mounts a while back and they were bought from a motor factors then they would be different.

looks like I may have to buy one more now to make a pair.

[ridds]

cupra20v.t said:

reduce? I would have thought to increase torque as the bolt will have more tendancy to vibrate loose with copper grease on it.

You reduce the torque as the friction required to put the same tensile load on the bolt is reduced. If you put the same torque on the nut/bolt you're likely to take the bolt way past it's yeild point and then you'll loose clamping strength and likely to see the bolt fail.