Discussion
Mine overheated at Chatsworth,a few questions
1/ Does the a/c fan operate with the cooling fan if the a/c is not on?
2/ at what temp do they or it cut in?
3/ What operates them as the wiring diagram shows the wiring disappearing into the main loom and i cant seem to follow it ( old eyes)
1/ Does the a/c fan operate with the cooling fan if the a/c is not on?
2/ at what temp do they or it cut in?
3/ What operates them as the wiring diagram shows the wiring disappearing into the main loom and i cant seem to follow it ( old eyes)
I think one comes in at 90 and the second at 95 - or similar.
This may not correspond with the gauge but if you plug in the laptop you'll see they come in earlier than the gauge shows.
I had mine re-programmed by TCS when it was re-mapped and rarely see 95 running hot in traffic and never any more that.
This may not correspond with the gauge but if you plug in the laptop you'll see they come in earlier than the gauge shows.
I had mine re-programmed by TCS when it was re-mapped and rarely see 95 running hot in traffic and never any more that.
I have a simple switch which grounds out the ECU coolant sensor on mine. It makes the Mill light up and beep but I can keep the thing cool whenever I want.
Cost about £1 to do as well. Plus I can cool the engine right down before turning off.
Not sure what it does to the fuelling though so I always give it a few seconds with the switch off before stopping.
Cost about £1 to do as well. Plus I can cool the engine right down before turning off.
Not sure what it does to the fuelling though so I always give it a few seconds with the switch off before stopping.
My understanding was that a failed (open circuit) coolant sensor was treated conservatively, i.e. fuelling the car as if it was cold (info from Andy at APM to a friend dealing with this problem on a trip in France). It can therefore bugger your cats if you run this way for a long time. You're better to install your switch so it grounds out the fan relays as the ECU does.
Steve_T said:
My understanding was that a failed (open circuit) coolant sensor was treated conservatively, i.e. fuelling the car as if it was cold (info from Andy at APM to a friend dealing with this problem on a trip in France). It can therefore bugger your cats if you run this way for a long time. You're better to install your switch so it grounds out the fan relays as the ECU does.
Cheers for the info. I'll change that then. Not too fussed as I have no cats anyway but I'd prefer to save what fuel I can.Where is the fan relay? (I'm a lazy bugger)
ridds said:
Steve_T said:
My understanding was that a failed (open circuit) coolant sensor was treated conservatively, i.e. fuelling the car as if it was cold (info from Andy at APM to a friend dealing with this problem on a trip in France). It can therefore bugger your cats if you run this way for a long time. You're better to install your switch so it grounds out the fan relays as the ECU does.
Cheers for the info. I'll change that then. Not too fussed as I have no cats anyway but I'd prefer to save what fuel I can.Where is the fan relay? (I'm a lazy bugger)
Okay, aproaching this from a different angle...
...did your car actually overheat or did the gauge just go 'into the red'?
I ask as the temp gauges can read very high due to the routing of the capillary tube above the exhaust manifold!
I've had my car ticking over for ages in unbearable heat waiting for sprints in the past, the gauge was reading 10 degrees hot.
Just an idea, if you had clouds of steam and the acrid smell of coolant please ignore me.
Tim
...did your car actually overheat or did the gauge just go 'into the red'?
I ask as the temp gauges can read very high due to the routing of the capillary tube above the exhaust manifold!
I've had my car ticking over for ages in unbearable heat waiting for sprints in the past, the gauge was reading 10 degrees hot.
Just an idea, if you had clouds of steam and the acrid smell of coolant please ignore me.
Tim
Have to agree there. Comparing laptop with gauge mine is about 5°C hotter on the guage but my capillary tube is insulated.
Also, if your gauge bounces you have air in your system. I don;t know why it does this but it's true....
These cars, as temperamental as they are, with a rad in good knick and fans that turn on and off properly shouldn't over heat as the fans can remove enough heat to keep them cool.
I have the extra switch as I prefer to cool it down before stopping to prevent any heat soak.
Another thing to bear in mind is that the coolant temp sensor (ECU) can, if it has a dodgy connection, cause the fans not to work!
Good idea to check this out too.
Also, if your gauge bounces you have air in your system. I don;t know why it does this but it's true....
These cars, as temperamental as they are, with a rad in good knick and fans that turn on and off properly shouldn't over heat as the fans can remove enough heat to keep them cool.
I have the extra switch as I prefer to cool it down before stopping to prevent any heat soak.
Another thing to bear in mind is that the coolant temp sensor (ECU) can, if it has a dodgy connection, cause the fans not to work!
Good idea to check this out too.I have now removed the numberplate and have a stick on plate on the bonnet.
I hope this will allow more air through the rad at low speed.
But with the plate off I can see that the oily residue that comes off the air filter has got to the rad and it is all sticky and getting a bit blocked.
Might be worth looking and keeping the rads themselves clean so the air can get through them. Simple things to check first I say.
I'm going to get some engine cleaner spay and let them soak for a few days then "GENTLY" hose them down.
I did this last year and it definately improved things then.
Steve
I hope this will allow more air through the rad at low speed.
But with the plate off I can see that the oily residue that comes off the air filter has got to the rad and it is all sticky and getting a bit blocked.
Might be worth looking and keeping the rads themselves clean so the air can get through them. Simple things to check first I say.
I'm going to get some engine cleaner spay and let them soak for a few days then "GENTLY" hose them down.
I did this last year and it definately improved things then.
Steve
sorry to go off topic slightly but does anyone know what the standard 4.2 rads are made of? ideally the end tanks as after last nights running session I noticed I have a pin hole leak where the passenger side inlet joins the rad tank sometimes is squirts a tiny jet of water as thin as a needle and other times it doesnt leak.
I am wondering if it can be braised, welded or plumbers mate'd. I haven't got the funds to buy a new rad at the moment so a fix is whats needed
I am wondering if it can be braised, welded or plumbers mate'd. I haven't got the funds to buy a new rad at the moment so a fix is whats needed
plumAJP said:
sorry to go off topic slightly but does anyone know what the standard 4.2 rads are made of? ideally the end tanks as after last nights running session I noticed I have a pin hole leak where the passenger side inlet joins the rad tank sometimes is squirts a tiny jet of water as thin as a needle and other times it doesnt leak.
I am wondering if it can be braised, welded or plumbers mate'd. I haven't got the funds to buy a new rad at the moment so a fix is whats needed
Don't know what they are made of but I bet you can repair them. Most people seem to prefer to replace them though. I have an aluminium rad and have been told that these can't be repaired. I reckon that isn't true as I have seen various articles describing aluminium welding on radiators.I am wondering if it can be braised, welded or plumbers mate'd. I haven't got the funds to buy a new rad at the moment so a fix is whats needed
Thanks for the information,i will check it all out,as an add to this a local radiator company does not recommend ali rads at all as the water in Essex disolves them very quickly.They can build to order or copy any rads,they copied my sons KawasakiZX12 rad and it fitted to perfection and was half the price .
My fans were once a bit intermitent so I checked everything out and found out that the plugs near the fans were by bunged up with grease or something, a quick clean out and they have now always come on about 93deg (gauge Reading) and I have since never had a problem. Worth a check as it was free.
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