Steering UJ and shaft getting on my tits
Steering UJ and shaft getting on my tits
Author
Discussion

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

296 months

Sunday 3rd May 2009
quotequote all
After getting the engine and box back in, I am in the process of plumbing all the other bits to it.
The UJs and shaft WERE on but had to be taken back off to get the o/s engine mount on. Now I'm trying to get the steering all back together and its not having it. Admittedly when I put the steering back together the 1st time, I forgot to put the round nylon sleeve over the pinion first. So now putting it back together with it in place, its not having it. Maybe just a coincidence.

Is there a particular way in putting this st back together? I have hammered the UJ that goes onto the pinion as far as it will go. I have hammered the UJ that goes into the wheel arch as far as it will go. But trying to get the shaft to go in is proving to be a stubborn turd.

Any help appreciated.

Cad

GreenV8S

31,021 posts

314 months

Sunday 3rd May 2009
quotequote all
For the spline joints it helps to jam a screwdriver or similar in to hold them slightly open, then just a matt6er of keeping them straight and tapping them on. They should be no harder to put on than they were to take off if you see what I mean. Be careful not to bash the bearings too hard and damage them. Lots of small taps rather than one big one iyswim.

Ireland

3,517 posts

244 months

Sunday 3rd May 2009
quotequote all
I had to have the steering rack bolts out and the rack pushed as far forward as possible when I was changing the seals in it ..... and I was only trying to do one end, not both.

I have to replace the UJs on mine soon too and was thinking that this would be a bh of a job getting it back together.

julian64

14,325 posts

284 months

Sunday 3rd May 2009
quotequote all
Irelands your man. Undo the steering rack bolts and slide the whole steering tack forward 2-3cm .This then give you enough throw to remove one end from the UJ.

Interestingly doing this before my ramp got command'ered. The steering boss only gad a hexagonal head rather than a spine, so if you are tracking the car and you need to adjust the steering wheel you have to do it by using the spines on the UJ. frown

ridds

8,372 posts

274 months

Sunday 3rd May 2009
quotequote all
I managed to get mine off with the rack in place. It can be a real fiddle but it might be possible.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

296 months

Monday 4th May 2009
quotequote all
I think I'm going to have to move the rack then. I did'nt really want to tbh, but I'm not going through another knuckle skinning afternoon like yesterday rantinghehe

Thanks for the replies as always all. Sometimes you really need the support found on this forum when it comes to DIY mechanics on a Cerb.

longbow

1,610 posts

265 months

Monday 4th May 2009
quotequote all
Ged, I'm struggling to think of why you are having a problem with this - when I fitted the manifolds a while ago I had to remove the steering shaft to remove the engine mount plate, just as you are doing, but I definitely didn't need to move the steering rack to do it.

I take it you have remove all of the 13mm bolts that go through the UJs? Only with these bolts out will you be able to push the UJs are far back as is needed. But I'm guessing you have already done that anyway, so not sure what the problem is??????

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

296 months

Monday 4th May 2009
quotequote all
Yup, naturally the bolts are out. Believe me, I'm as miffed as to why they wont go back in. I can't believe just putting that white round nylon disc would hinder the refitting so much. I have tried the wheel/rack at different rotations even, not that it would probably make any difference. But still no joy. Going to have once more try before going down the rack moving route.


ridds

8,372 posts

274 months

Monday 4th May 2009
quotequote all
The bolts won't go back through the UJ's if the bolt holes aren't aligned with the cut outs in the splines.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

296 months

Monday 4th May 2009
quotequote all
Sorry Matt, I'm not surprised you posted that last comment, after reading the way I worded my last post.

What I meant to say was that the bolts were out, to Wins, but I was miffed as to why the actual UJs and shaft did'nt go back in. lol.

Anyway, I took it all apart and put it back together in a different order (the RIGHT order it seems), and it was a doddle.
Panic over.
Now I can get on with putting the lambdas back in (oh joy) and connect them up. Then the injectors, alternator connections, etc, etc.

No doubt there will be more ' ranting ' posts in due course hehe

ridds

8,372 posts

274 months

Monday 4th May 2009
quotequote all
yo2've really picked some fiddly jobs there. laugh

Glad it's back together.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

296 months

Monday 4th May 2009
quotequote all
ridds said:
yo2've really picked some fiddly jobs there. laugh

Glad it's back together.
Tell me about it.
I went back out and realised I still had the four 13mm bolts ontop of the gearbox that hold the gear lever plate down. So I decided to tackle that first. Which was tricky, as the box was already bolted onto its brackets.
Got them in eventually, but not tightened. Ring spanners won't get past the lip of the casing, and a socket wrench won't fit. Only the socket piece. So its off to buy a crappy 13mm socket tomorrow, and then to my uncles to get a short shank/handle welded to it.
Oh the joys of motoring wobble

ridds

8,372 posts

274 months

Monday 4th May 2009
quotequote all
Then you try and get to them from above and you realise the rubber gaiter round the gear lever is clamped on.
This needs the rivets drilled out.

To get to the rivets you need to remove the transmission tunnel cover..... laugh it just goes on and on.....