Missing on one bank
Discussion
Used the Cerb over the weekend and it was running beautifully.
I've gone to fire it up today and it's only running on the offside bank - the nearside is cold and it won't tick over
I'm about to have all the induction stuff off as I'm guessing that it has to be the feed to a coil pack, but before I do, has anyone else experienced this?
Also, can I just swap the feeds over to check whether it's a feed or the actual coil pack?
I've gone to fire it up today and it's only running on the offside bank - the nearside is cold and it won't tick over
I'm about to have all the induction stuff off as I'm guessing that it has to be the feed to a coil pack, but before I do, has anyone else experienced this?
Also, can I just swap the feeds over to check whether it's a feed or the actual coil pack?
All the injectors are fired together; the wires to all injectors in each bank are spliced together and are fired from the same pin of the ecu.
There is an output for the left and an output for the right banks.
You could swap the cables over from one side to the other and see if the dead bank moves. If it does it could be a dodgy connection or a faulty ecu.
What year is your car? On early ones there is a multi-pin plug either just inside or just outside the bulkhead on the nearside, which is the cable going from the ecu to the engine bay. If you have one, open it up and check for corrosion.
I had this on my old Cerb; No plug like that on mine, but happily the ecu wasn't faulty either.
The pair of wires that come from the ecu to each bank is sinply split off to each injector with crimp splices inside the loom. If water gets inside the loom the splices can oxidise and not work any more.
That's what had happened to mine; I had to strip out all the wiring on that side, remake the splices (soldered them) and re-tape/sleev up the loom.
If you start from the injector plugs and go back you'll find the joins.
good luck!
Andy.
There is an output for the left and an output for the right banks.
You could swap the cables over from one side to the other and see if the dead bank moves. If it does it could be a dodgy connection or a faulty ecu.
What year is your car? On early ones there is a multi-pin plug either just inside or just outside the bulkhead on the nearside, which is the cable going from the ecu to the engine bay. If you have one, open it up and check for corrosion.
I had this on my old Cerb; No plug like that on mine, but happily the ecu wasn't faulty either.
The pair of wires that come from the ecu to each bank is sinply split off to each injector with crimp splices inside the loom. If water gets inside the loom the splices can oxidise and not work any more.
That's what had happened to mine; I had to strip out all the wiring on that side, remake the splices (soldered them) and re-tape/sleev up the loom.
If you start from the injector plugs and go back you'll find the joins.
good luck!
Andy.
Edited by alinton on Tuesday 5th May 21:37
Edited by alinton on Tuesday 5th May 21:38
itiejim said:
Thanks folks, there's no "tick" so definately an electrical issue by the sounds of it.
My car is number 20 from May 1996, so I'm guessing that I'll have the dodgy connector issue. I'll hot foot it outside to have a look!
Take a couple of open and ring spanners + a flat head as you'll be removing the header tank to get the connector. and don't forget to disconnect the battery My car is number 20 from May 1996, so I'm guessing that I'll have the dodgy connector issue. I'll hot foot it outside to have a look!
.Right, I have investigated further and found some very strange behaviour!
I have removed the induction (4.5), moved the expansion tank, cleaned up the large multipin plug underneath and tried to fire it up again.
When I try to turn it over with the throttle closed it injects on all 8 cylinders, I can put my finger in the throttle body and feel the fuel squirting out.
However, as soon as I give any throttle to try to start the engine it stops giving fuel on the nearside bank. Turn off, try again and it's exactly the same - why??
Is there a seperate feed that operates the injectors from a cold start?
I have removed the induction (4.5), moved the expansion tank, cleaned up the large multipin plug underneath and tried to fire it up again.
When I try to turn it over with the throttle closed it injects on all 8 cylinders, I can put my finger in the throttle body and feel the fuel squirting out.
However, as soon as I give any throttle to try to start the engine it stops giving fuel on the nearside bank. Turn off, try again and it's exactly the same - why??
Is there a seperate feed that operates the injectors from a cold start?
I'd hazard a guess at a faulty Lambda sensor?? (thats a guess by the way) If one throttle pot is faulty, the ECU takes the readings from the remaining working TP. You can try switching the connections to the throttle pots - Just unplug them and switch the plugs round - to see if that makes any difference. But if a Lambda is faulty wouldn't it be telling the ECU not to supply fuel to the corresponding bank??
To take the guesswork out get an old Laptop, You only need an old one, something like this will do....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOSHIBA-SATELLITE-PRO-430CDT...
To take the guesswork out get an old Laptop, You only need an old one, something like this will do....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOSHIBA-SATELLITE-PRO-430CDT...
JensenA said:
I'd hazard a guess at a faulty Lambda sensor?? (thats a guess by the way) If one throttle pot is faulty, the ECU takes the readings from the remaining working TP. You can try switching the connections to the throttle pots - Just unplug them and switch the plugs round - to see if that makes any difference. But if a Lambda is faulty wouldn't it be telling the ECU not to supply fuel to the corresponding bank??
To take the guesswork out get an old Laptop, You only need an old one, something like this will do....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOSHIBA-SATELLITE-PRO-430CDT...
Could be right actually because I think these default to a lean condition if the Lambda fails (madness) and would give you the lack of fuel.To take the guesswork out get an old Laptop, You only need an old one, something like this will do....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOSHIBA-SATELLITE-PRO-430CDT...
Thanks for the advice guys. I have swapped the throttle pot leads over and it makes no difference at all.
I know I should really buy a laptop, I'll probably get the one you pointed out - cheers, however, in the interim do you suppose it's just worth putting another lambda sensor in?
Before I do though, where does the wiring to the lambda sensor go - I can't get at it properly under the car as I haven't got a ramp at home, but does it just run up into the engine bay and then the ECU via that big plug under the expansion tank?
I would like to check that out, it just seems odd that I parked it up and it was fine and then went to start it (only a couple of days later) to find a component failure!
I know I should really buy a laptop, I'll probably get the one you pointed out - cheers, however, in the interim do you suppose it's just worth putting another lambda sensor in?
Before I do though, where does the wiring to the lambda sensor go - I can't get at it properly under the car as I haven't got a ramp at home, but does it just run up into the engine bay and then the ECU via that big plug under the expansion tank?
I would like to check that out, it just seems odd that I parked it up and it was fine and then went to start it (only a couple of days later) to find a component failure!
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