Gear (box) problem?
Discussion
... just when you think everything's perfect... 
Did do a search, but not pulled up anything on this... Any ideas on what on earth this might be?
No gradual indication of a problem, just returned to the car late yesterday, and when coming to select first gear to move off, wouldn't go in. Thought that was strange. Let the clutch out, re-engaged and tried again, and it was still not "there" as usual. Tried a couple of other gears and they were there, but still "difficult". I tried first again, and got it, but it took muhc more effort than usual.
Driving back, paid particular attention to the box, shifting etc... and if the revs are right, changes work fine, but are generally more difficult than they should be to hit.
The thing that worries me most is getting into first from stationary...
Very limited knowledge of this area (gearboxy bitsnbobs) unfortunately, but if I said something like the synchromesh seems to be playing up on the gear box, would that make sense? Is it possible?
Crunch question is - What happens from here? New....? [fill in the gaps!]
Or is it an overhaul, service, check, touch up for something? Hoping its not a new gear box!? Is it?
So:
- it come on suddenly
- make gear selection from stationary v.tricky
Welcome any pointers, as I've put her off the road for the time until whatever it is, is idnetified.
Thanks in advance.
Did do a search, but not pulled up anything on this... Any ideas on what on earth this might be?
No gradual indication of a problem, just returned to the car late yesterday, and when coming to select first gear to move off, wouldn't go in. Thought that was strange. Let the clutch out, re-engaged and tried again, and it was still not "there" as usual. Tried a couple of other gears and they were there, but still "difficult". I tried first again, and got it, but it took muhc more effort than usual.
Driving back, paid particular attention to the box, shifting etc... and if the revs are right, changes work fine, but are generally more difficult than they should be to hit.
The thing that worries me most is getting into first from stationary...
Very limited knowledge of this area (gearboxy bitsnbobs) unfortunately, but if I said something like the synchromesh seems to be playing up on the gear box, would that make sense? Is it possible?
Crunch question is - What happens from here? New....? [fill in the gaps!]
Or is it an overhaul, service, check, touch up for something? Hoping its not a new gear box!? Is it?
So:
- it come on suddenly
- make gear selection from stationary v.tricky
Welcome any pointers, as I've put her off the road for the time until whatever it is, is idnetified.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Phil
Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder, this is under a rounded cover on the inside of the drivers wing. You need to remove the windscreen panel which the windscreen washer tubes pass through first. If this is low or empty you have a leaking slave or master cylinder. This is a very common fault and should be your first port of call as it's quite easy to check. Any sign of fluid drips under the car? Also remove the drivers mat and carpeted panel behind pedals to check for master cylinder leaks if fluid level is low. Good luck.
Regards
Simon
Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder, this is under a rounded cover on the inside of the drivers wing. You need to remove the windscreen panel which the windscreen washer tubes pass through first. If this is low or empty you have a leaking slave or master cylinder. This is a very common fault and should be your first port of call as it's quite easy to check. Any sign of fluid drips under the car? Also remove the drivers mat and carpeted panel behind pedals to check for master cylinder leaks if fluid level is low. Good luck.
Regards
Simon
Edited by SimonKD on Sunday 17th May 08:19
The clutch is relatively new (or at least - not "old") so I'd hope it wouldn't be an issue there...
If its the fluid, I'm guessing the clutch just isn't working properly, in so much as it's not engaging fully etc... which feels about right.
Will check the levels as a start point then.. if it stops raining some time soon!
Thanks for the info.
Phil.
If its the fluid, I'm guessing the clutch just isn't working properly, in so much as it's not engaging fully etc... which feels about right.
Will check the levels as a start point then.. if it stops raining some time soon!
Thanks for the info.
Phil.
How is it manifesting itself then. Your post doesn't make it clear.
Can you find the gears and it just doesn't take up the drive or is it harder than previously experienced to put the gear lever into position.
1st one is likely to be worn frictions discs or lost tension in the pressure plate, second, is more likely leaky fluid, failed seals or fingers.
2nd symptoms are completely separate from a replacement clutch (bar the fingers) unless you have the slave changed at the same time?
Can you find the gears and it just doesn't take up the drive or is it harder than previously experienced to put the gear lever into position.
1st one is likely to be worn frictions discs or lost tension in the pressure plate, second, is more likely leaky fluid, failed seals or fingers.
2nd symptoms are completely separate from a replacement clutch (bar the fingers) unless you have the slave changed at the same time?
75% fluid, 24% fingers, 1% box. It's very unlikely the box has had a failure of syncromesh on multiple gears at the same time and the Cerb is noted for losing fluid and broken fingers on the clutch diaphragm plate. Fingers and fluid loss both happen suddenly, a finger breaks off and one minute it's all OK, the next you have vitually no clutch disengagement. With the fluid, it's a bit low, you push the clutch down just once more, it sucks in a gob full of air at the master cylinder and same result.
It's not impossible it is the box but it would be the last place to start looking not the first.
Jon
It's not impossible it is the box but it would be the last place to start looking not the first.
Jon
my money is on the fluid.
also check that the push rod on the back of the clutch pedal is wound out and there is no play in the pedal. if the push rod has vibrated the nut loose and its wound the push rod in slightly then you will not be getting the full push of the pedal on the piston in the master cylinder which will not push the slave cylinder all the way so you will be getting a sort of half press on the clutch which will cause gear selction to be stiff and notchy if any at all. (As i found out myself yesterday)
also check that the push rod on the back of the clutch pedal is wound out and there is no play in the pedal. if the push rod has vibrated the nut loose and its wound the push rod in slightly then you will not be getting the full push of the pedal on the piston in the master cylinder which will not push the slave cylinder all the way so you will be getting a sort of half press on the clutch which will cause gear selction to be stiff and notchy if any at all. (As i found out myself yesterday)
TVRpower are doing an offer on full clutch replacement at £699 until the end of April (??) but I reckon they might still do a deal!
http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/news.php
If it's not the fingers you will probably need a slave cylinder at an extra £170 ish, they are the main leak point as the seals fail. Whichever it is I would be inclined to change both while the gearbox is off unless the clutch is very new (<20-30k) as much of the cost is labour in removing and refitting the box and you don't want to pay out twice.
As a DIY job the clutch without slave cylinder is about £400 + VAT exchange but it's not a job for someone with little mechanical experience unless your feeling quite brave, it's a dirty heavy job and aligning everything is a real challenge on a twin plate clutch.
The fingers are part of the diapragm spring, see pic, this is not a cerb clutch BTW just a general pic of a clutch. On the original AP clutch they had a tendency to snap off. Fixed on later revisons I believe.
http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/news.php
If it's not the fingers you will probably need a slave cylinder at an extra £170 ish, they are the main leak point as the seals fail. Whichever it is I would be inclined to change both while the gearbox is off unless the clutch is very new (<20-30k) as much of the cost is labour in removing and refitting the box and you don't want to pay out twice.
As a DIY job the clutch without slave cylinder is about £400 + VAT exchange but it's not a job for someone with little mechanical experience unless your feeling quite brave, it's a dirty heavy job and aligning everything is a real challenge on a twin plate clutch.
The fingers are part of the diapragm spring, see pic, this is not a cerb clutch BTW just a general pic of a clutch. On the original AP clutch they had a tendency to snap off. Fixed on later revisons I believe.
Righty... finally managed to get round to checking the clutch fluid level as a start.
Now, first, can someone confirm it's the reservoir lovingly made by Ford? Pretty square, with a screw cap, and couple of wires coming off it too by the looks of it.
Assuming thats the puppy, it looks pretty full, so from what I've read, that's that done.
Next interesting observation though, is that when I re-assembled, got back into the car, and pumped the clutch a few times (which I was actually testing for "play" in the nuts and connectors in the footwell) she now seems to engage absolutely fine!
So I'm guessing if the fingers were broken (i.e. a "hard" mechanical failure) then this would not be the case - the problem would be there, full stop.
As it is, I'm now just confused!?
I guess if there was air in the system somehow, it might explain the issue. Would the rebuild (<1000 miles ago) be a possible point at which some could have been introduced, and just now manifested?
Any clues?
I'm going to take her out for a quick run to see what happens...
Now, first, can someone confirm it's the reservoir lovingly made by Ford? Pretty square, with a screw cap, and couple of wires coming off it too by the looks of it.
Assuming thats the puppy, it looks pretty full, so from what I've read, that's that done.
Next interesting observation though, is that when I re-assembled, got back into the car, and pumped the clutch a few times (which I was actually testing for "play" in the nuts and connectors in the footwell) she now seems to engage absolutely fine!
So I'm guessing if the fingers were broken (i.e. a "hard" mechanical failure) then this would not be the case - the problem would be there, full stop.
As it is, I'm now just confused!?
I guess if there was air in the system somehow, it might explain the issue. Would the rebuild (<1000 miles ago) be a possible point at which some could have been introduced, and just now manifested?
Any clues?
I'm going to take her out for a quick run to see what happens...
The_Edge said:
Righty... finally managed to get round to checking the clutch fluid level as a start.
Now, first, can someone confirm it's the reservoir lovingly made by Ford? Pretty square, with a screw cap, and couple of wires coming off it too by the looks of it.
No, that's the brake master cylinder. Clutch master is under the rounded cover inside the drivers wing. Windscreen/battery cover panel must be removed to get to this. Clutch master cylinder has no level switch so no wires either.Now, first, can someone confirm it's the reservoir lovingly made by Ford? Pretty square, with a screw cap, and couple of wires coming off it too by the looks of it.
Regards
Simon
Edited by SimonKD on Thursday 21st May 16:34
SimonKD said:
The_Edge said:
Righty... finally managed to get round to checking the clutch fluid level as a start.
Now, first, can someone confirm it's the reservoir lovingly made by Ford? Pretty square, with a screw cap, and couple of wires coming off it too by the looks of it.
No, that's the brake master cylinder. Clutch master is under the rounded cover inside the drivers wing. Windscreen/battery cover panel must be removed to get to this. Clutch master cylinder has no level switch so no wires either.Now, first, can someone confirm it's the reservoir lovingly made by Ford? Pretty square, with a screw cap, and couple of wires coming off it too by the looks of it.
Regards
Simon
Edited by SimonKD on Thursday 21st May 16:34
The "wing" is off, or on the windscreen at least
and I'm all over the driver's side wing, but can't find this second reservoir... can't find a muppet's guide on here either There's not much on that driver's side wing as far as I can see... if there another cover to take off? How far down the wing between windscreen and nose of the car roughly? Still searching 
Clutch seems to work fine when the engine's off - only when it's running do I have the problem. Interesting.
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