Help - bonnet release isn't :( it's stuck
Discussion
I noticed that the bonnet release was getting a bit "sticky" at Le Mans, when it stook fast in the "open" position. Open and closed the bonnet a couple of times, seemed to do the trick.
But I've just put the car in the garage, went to open the bonnet, and try as I might couldn't turn the knob to release the bonnet. Got out, tried to wiggle the bonnet up and down, then tried again - nothing
Before I resort to brute force, or thumping it in frustration, any ideas??
Do they often stick? If so, is there a mod or cure? or does it need liberal applications of lube (oo-er missus)?
But I've just put the car in the garage, went to open the bonnet, and try as I might couldn't turn the knob to release the bonnet. Got out, tried to wiggle the bonnet up and down, then tried again - nothing
Before I resort to brute force, or thumping it in frustration, any ideas??
Do they often stick? If so, is there a mod or cure? or does it need liberal applications of lube (oo-er missus)?
When one sode of mine broke in the closed position I was somehow able to get my fingers in and move the rod to open it.
As far as I remember I reached in through the slots where the windscreen washer hoses come out (or somewhere near there).
It sound like one of the little ball joints on yours has stuck.
You'll probably need someone in the car turning the knob while you try to move the locking rods.
As far as I remember I reached in through the slots where the windscreen washer hoses come out (or somewhere near there).
It sound like one of the little ball joints on yours has stuck.
You'll probably need someone in the car turning the knob while you try to move the locking rods.
Hi Mike
It's a simple fix but a swine to get at. It involves being upside down in the drivers footwell with your head down by the pedals. The aluminium handwheel passes through a collar. This collar has a tapped hole in it at 90 degrees to the handwheel shaft. In this tapped hole sit a grubscrew, a small spring and a ball bearing. The spring pushes the ball bearing into slots on the handwheel shaft when it is fully clockwise or anticlockwise and the bonnet catches are fully in or fully out. Slacken the grubscrew to take some pressure off the spring as it sometimes can jam in the slot. You may end up removing the grubscrew, spring and bearing altogether in order to apply grease to the bearing. With this lot removed make sure you have full travel with the bonnet rods moving fully in and out as the handle is turned. Now the hardest bit. Put the bearing, spring and grubscrew back in slowly tightening the grubscrew whilst trying the handwheel. Too loose and the handwheel will turn and bonnet will open when driving, too tight you will get it jammed again trying to undo the bonnet. You'll need a 5mm Allen Key and it's the recessed grubscrew you're after not the caphead screw that sticks out of the handwheel shaft.
Best of luck
Simon
It's a simple fix but a swine to get at. It involves being upside down in the drivers footwell with your head down by the pedals. The aluminium handwheel passes through a collar. This collar has a tapped hole in it at 90 degrees to the handwheel shaft. In this tapped hole sit a grubscrew, a small spring and a ball bearing. The spring pushes the ball bearing into slots on the handwheel shaft when it is fully clockwise or anticlockwise and the bonnet catches are fully in or fully out. Slacken the grubscrew to take some pressure off the spring as it sometimes can jam in the slot. You may end up removing the grubscrew, spring and bearing altogether in order to apply grease to the bearing. With this lot removed make sure you have full travel with the bonnet rods moving fully in and out as the handle is turned. Now the hardest bit. Put the bearing, spring and grubscrew back in slowly tightening the grubscrew whilst trying the handwheel. Too loose and the handwheel will turn and bonnet will open when driving, too tight you will get it jammed again trying to undo the bonnet. You'll need a 5mm Allen Key and it's the recessed grubscrew you're after not the caphead screw that sticks out of the handwheel shaft.
Best of luck
Simon
SimonKD said:
Hi Mike
It's a simple fix but a swine to get at. It involves being upside down in the drivers footwell with your head down by the pedals. The aluminium handwheel passes through a collar. This collar has a tapped hole in it at 90 degrees to the handwheel shaft. In this tapped hole sit a grubscrew, a small spring and a ball bearing. The spring pushes the ball bearing into slots on the handwheel shaft when it is fully clockwise or anticlockwise and the bonnet catches are fully in or fully out. Slacken the grubscrew to take some pressure off the spring as it sometimes can jam in the slot. You may end up removing the grubscrew, spring and bearing altogether in order to apply grease to the bearing. With this lot removed make sure you have full travel with the bonnet rods moving fully in and out as the handle is turned. Now the hardest bit. Put the bearing, spring and grubscrew back in slowly tightening the grubscrew whilst trying the handwheel. Too loose and the handwheel will turn and bonnet will open when driving, too tight you will get it jammed again trying to undo the bonnet. You'll need a 5mm Allen Key and it's the recessed grubscrew you're after not the caphead screw that sticks out of the handwheel shaft.
Best of luck
Simon
Brilliant response Simon,It's a simple fix but a swine to get at. It involves being upside down in the drivers footwell with your head down by the pedals. The aluminium handwheel passes through a collar. This collar has a tapped hole in it at 90 degrees to the handwheel shaft. In this tapped hole sit a grubscrew, a small spring and a ball bearing. The spring pushes the ball bearing into slots on the handwheel shaft when it is fully clockwise or anticlockwise and the bonnet catches are fully in or fully out. Slacken the grubscrew to take some pressure off the spring as it sometimes can jam in the slot. You may end up removing the grubscrew, spring and bearing altogether in order to apply grease to the bearing. With this lot removed make sure you have full travel with the bonnet rods moving fully in and out as the handle is turned. Now the hardest bit. Put the bearing, spring and grubscrew back in slowly tightening the grubscrew whilst trying the handwheel. Too loose and the handwheel will turn and bonnet will open when driving, too tight you will get it jammed again trying to undo the bonnet. You'll need a 5mm Allen Key and it's the recessed grubscrew you're after not the caphead screw that sticks out of the handwheel shaft.
Best of luck
Simon
I habve been suffering with this for years and your solution is so well written that I almost feel brave enough to have a go ! (almost0
Edited by Mr.Cerbera on Monday 29th June 10:40
And I'm booking it in for a service in the next couple of weeks anyway, so if the whole assembly falls into my lap - I know who's gonna fix it! 
Believe me both of you, the hardest part is getting into the right positon on your back with your head touching the pedals. Also the ball bearing is quite small and if you drop it or the spring or grubscrew they will probably end up under the drivers seat so be carefull. Get everything youll need in reaching distance too because its even harder getting back out from this ridiculous position. Best of luck each.
Regards
Simon
Regards
Simon
Simon, thanks for all the advice - had a go last night......
..... what a b
r of a job this one is, eh?
So, upside down, wriggle backwards into the drivers footwell, torch in hand to check what it looks like - check.
Back out again to get 5mm allen key (as no way socket set is going to fit) - check
Wriggle back into possition, trying not to bash head on steering wheel - check.
Can I hold the torch, and allen key, and try to get it to fit - no.
Could I get the allen key onto the end of the bolt? Could I f ....
Either TVR fitted a much longer bolt into the collar on mine (possible, probably ran out of small ones and grabbed the next available size up?), or my coal-shovel hands just are too big for the f'ing job...... spent about 10 mins gently cursing, upside down, head in footwell, before admitting defeat.
Without sounding too Frankie Howard, is yours bigger than mine? The bolt that fits into to the collar at 90 degrees on mine is about 4 cm or so, and faces directly into the carpeted bit of the steering column, meaning I can't get the allen key into place with my hands - there just wasn't room to hold allen key and try and get it into the head....
..... what a b
r of a job this one is, eh? So, upside down, wriggle backwards into the drivers footwell, torch in hand to check what it looks like - check.
Back out again to get 5mm allen key (as no way socket set is going to fit) - check
Wriggle back into possition, trying not to bash head on steering wheel - check.
Can I hold the torch, and allen key, and try to get it to fit - no.
Could I get the allen key onto the end of the bolt? Could I f
.... Either TVR fitted a much longer bolt into the collar on mine (possible, probably ran out of small ones and grabbed the next available size up?), or my coal-shovel hands just are too big for the f'ing job...... spent about 10 mins gently cursing, upside down, head in footwell, before admitting defeat.
Without sounding too Frankie Howard, is yours bigger than mine? The bolt that fits into to the collar at 90 degrees on mine is about 4 cm or so, and faces directly into the carpeted bit of the steering column, meaning I can't get the allen key into place with my hands - there just wasn't room to hold allen key and try and get it into the head....
Hi Mike
Sorry about the delay in replying, been at work all day.
Are you trying to get at the grubscrew in the top left of the photo? The black one. I fitted a longer one than standard to make access easier for me as this job needs doing quite often.
My handle is pulled foreward, you can see one of the slots the ball bearing locks into.
The gold coloured cap head screw pointing southwest should be between the other 2 caphead screws holding the collar in place, the 2 capheads actually act as stops for the handwheel.
If you can't get to the grubscrew you could undo the 2 capheads holding the collar in place and pull it towards you giving more room to get at the grubscrew.
Happy contortions
Simon
Sorry about the delay in replying, been at work all day.
Are you trying to get at the grubscrew in the top left of the photo? The black one. I fitted a longer one than standard to make access easier for me as this job needs doing quite often.
My handle is pulled foreward, you can see one of the slots the ball bearing locks into.
The gold coloured cap head screw pointing southwest should be between the other 2 caphead screws holding the collar in place, the 2 capheads actually act as stops for the handwheel.
If you can't get to the grubscrew you could undo the 2 capheads holding the collar in place and pull it towards you giving more room to get at the grubscrew.
Happy contortions
Simon
Edited by SimonKD on Wednesday 1st July 18:29
Don't forget your grubscrew could be much shorter and recessed into the outer edge of the large collar. I think standard ones are only about 10mm long. The long gold one at 8 o'clock just locks the grooved small collar onto the handwheel shaft.
All this c**p just to lock a bonnet down, still "How's the lower spine bearing up?" lol
Regards
Simon
All this c**p just to lock a bonnet down, still "How's the lower spine bearing up?" lol
Regards
Simon
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff