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McNasty

Original Poster:

243 posts

242 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
Following my recent visit to Les Mans and a degree of showing off in front of the crowds upon arrival at the Maison Blanch camping area last month, i seem to have a little problem with my clutch.
Having done a what felt like a 100 yard wheel spin from a standing start (twice) my clutch feels a little lumpy when setting off in first gear and when driving along the road the clutch pedal sometimes goes soft at the the top of its travel. When you put your toe under the pedal and lift it back up the higher natural position the pedal stiffens up again.
So appart from what i suspect is the clutch plates being cooked what else could be causing the intermittent softness of the pedal? Is it likely that the plates have been cooked or is it something else causing the lumpy feeling. I must add that the clutch does seem a bit smoother since the drive back from Les Mans.
Any comments would be usefull if not amusing!

SlvrCrb

1,180 posts

263 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
Pedal being soft at the top of it's travel is more than likely clutch master seals starting to fail, letting a bit of fluid past. Easy enough fix.

McNasty

Original Poster:

243 posts

242 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
thanks Slvr, where is it then?
sorry for the dumb ass question but have not done any work on the clutch system yet.confused

SlvrCrb

1,180 posts

263 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
Pop the bonnet and standing on the o/s, find the brake fluid cylinder (round cap with 2 wires coming out) just inside/on top of the inner wing. About 3-4" further in is an oval shaped black plastic cover with 4 self tappers (probably has loads of mastic holding it on as well). Under there is your clutch master cylinder. There's a recent thread in here somewhere with a link to the seal kit from Merlin Motorsport. Make sure you put plenty of mastic back on when you're done as you'll end up with very wet feet otherwise. smile

hth.

plumAJP

1,149 posts

219 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
also you need to get into the drivers foot well and look at the pedal. you will see there are 2x13mm nuts holding the master cylinder in, unhook the push rod from the pedal, undo the fluid pipe from the cylinder (via bonnet access) and it will come out.

the bottom bolt of the master cylinder is hidden by the cylinder its self so i had a mate put a screw driver/crowbar in there to hold the bolt head and stop it spinning slightly whilst I undid the nut from inside the car.

McNasty

Original Poster:

243 posts

242 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
Thought you said easy fixeeklol
thanks guys

SlvrCrb

1,180 posts

263 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
McNasty said:
Thought you said easy fixeeklol
thanks guys
In the world of the Cerb DIY stuff, that is easy.. hehe Just be glad you don't have a failed alternator foir example. Now that's er... less easy wobble

plumAJP

1,149 posts

219 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
yeah or a leaky slave, as i would breakdown in tears if i had to do one of those and i wasnt mechanically minded

Killer Rhubarb

388 posts

208 months

Monday 13th July 2009
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plumAJP said:
yeah or a leaky slave, as i would breakdown in tears if i had to do one of those and i wasnt mechanically minded
and thats where i am! got a garage with a ramp for friday night into saturday though with free useage phew, anyone wanting to come down, make sure you bring some beers smile

plumAJP

1,149 posts

219 months

Monday 13th July 2009
quotequote all
where in the world are you?

Killer Rhubarb

388 posts

208 months

Monday 13th July 2009
quotequote all
plumAJP said:
where in the world are you?
Sunny surrey in guildford! i work in the trade selling parts so im friendly with about every garage in the area. pulling some serious favors in with this blinking cerb!

Was my dream car - I bought it 7 weeks ago and its hardly been working long enough to enjoy :P

but when it works... it works!

FarmyardPants

4,379 posts

248 months

Monday 13th July 2009
quotequote all
Well would you Adam and Eve it, my friggin clutch is doing the same. New clutch and slave a few k miles ago, bled a few months ago.

Just fired her up to take her out and the pedal feels ste. The first few inches of travel have very low resistance and springy, feels like air in the hydraulics. Can't get a gear. No fluid underneath or inside. Hope it's not me fingers again frown

Just got to work out how to bleed it on my own, maybe I'll dig out the old eezibleed or whatever its called. Goddammit I hate these fecking clutches!

edit: I remember I threw out the eezibleed as hadnt used it for 20 years. Christ on a bike. What's the standard fluid, is it dot4?

Edited by FarmyardPants on Monday 13th July 18:41


Edited by FarmyardPants on Monday 13th July 18:43

FarmyardPants

4,379 posts

248 months

Monday 13th July 2009
quotequote all
There's no fluid in the reservoir. Not good.

Killer Rhubarb

388 posts

208 months

Monday 13th July 2009
quotequote all
mr pants, im assuming theres a puddle on the floor but it could only be be a loose hose? check first, if the leak is bell housing end then its the slave. box out and could be just a seal. I used ATE DOT4 bought from euro car parts, 3/4 of a litre is all you will need

FarmyardPants

4,379 posts

248 months

Monday 13th July 2009
quotequote all
Killer Rhubarb said:
mr pants, im assuming theres a puddle on the floor but it could only be be a loose hose? check first, if the leak is bell housing end then its the slave. box out and could be just a seal. I used ATE DOT4 bought from euro car parts, 3/4 of a litre is all you will need
Thanks KR, popped out to Halfrauds and got a bleed kit and bled it, pedal feels ok again now (not started it yet though). Don't know where my fluid went but there's no sign of it anywhere confused. Oh well. I think I'll keep the fluid, bleed kit and spanners in the boot just in case hehe

Killer Rhubarb

388 posts

208 months

Monday 13th July 2009
quotequote all
FarmyardPants said:
Killer Rhubarb said:
mr pants, im assuming theres a puddle on the floor but it could only be be a loose hose? check first, if the leak is bell housing end then its the slave. box out and could be just a seal. I used ATE DOT4 bought from euro car parts, 3/4 of a litre is all you will need
Thanks KR, popped out to Halfrauds and got a bleed kit and bled it, pedal feels ok again now (not started it yet though). Don't know where my fluid went but there's no sign of it anywhere confused. Oh well. I think I'll keep the fluid, bleed kit and spanners in the boot just in case hehe
Slow leak. its on the pan you unscrewed underneath the car. Mine is off so much I thought about putting bricks around it and starting a BBQ...

plumAJP

1,149 posts

219 months

Tuesday 14th July 2009
quotequote all
i was about to say, if you have the sump gaurds and undertays on whch are filthy the fluid could have saturated that however the bell housing to engine is uncovered so the fluid should have hit the floor really.

I would put my money on it soaking into your carpet and the master seals are gone.

only other way for it to leak is a perished or leaky hose. from master cylinder to box.

FarmyardPants

4,379 posts

248 months

Tuesday 14th July 2009
quotequote all
I'll have a proper grovel in the footwell, pull carpet etc, but my theory is I was visited by the Clutch Fluid Fairy. It seems fine now, took it out for an hour and pedal is good. Nothing under the car this morning. Will keep an eye (foot) on it.

plumAJP

1,149 posts

219 months

Tuesday 14th July 2009
quotequote all
i think you need to find the thread about new master cylinder seals and springs to eliminate that.

new Master about £50, or new seals for roughly £10 and a spring for £5 and its about and hour an half to swap all the bits and bleed.

McNasty

Original Poster:

243 posts

242 months

Tuesday 14th July 2009
quotequote all
plumAJP said:
i think you need to find the thread about new master cylinder seals and springs to eliminate that.

new Master about £50, or new seals for roughly £10 and a spring for £5 and its about and hour an half to swap all the bits and bleed.
I'll hold you to thatbiggrin