larger door speakers
Discussion
Wouldn't have thought you would need to go any larger than 6.5"?
What size are you looking at?
A good set of components (from the top shelf such as DLS, Cadence, MB Quartz, Etc) should see you with a quality sound without the need for modifying doors.
Would recomend some MDF Spacers to mount the speakers on rather than mounting them to the door itself.
What size are you looking at?
A good set of components (from the top shelf such as DLS, Cadence, MB Quartz, Etc) should see you with a quality sound without the need for modifying doors.
Would recomend some MDF Spacers to mount the speakers on rather than mounting them to the door itself.
OzCupra said:
Would recomend some MDF Spacers to mount the speakers on rather than mounting them to the door itself.
Advice taken, I think from memory the fibre glass mould is right up to the magnet. maybe to space like you say and keep the size and go for higher quality like the MB quartzridds said:
Yep, Magnet size id your limit.
Mine just fit in with the wires. If you do need to make the hole bigger you could just use a hacksaw. Access is fine once the door card is off.
Make sure you put some sound deadening in the doors though. Mine vibrate really badly.
ridds have you got the MB Quartz - if so what is the model numberMine just fit in with the wires. If you do need to make the hole bigger you could just use a hacksaw. Access is fine once the door card is off.
Make sure you put some sound deadening in the doors though. Mine vibrate really badly.
The Lukas said:
Good 6.5" components should be more than enough if under a suitable amp. What are you trying to obtain with you sound system? 
i think the originals are so bad i was just looking at other options. my cerb is loud, looking at deadening some of the panels - boot, and doors and maybe transmission tunnel too. the MB's seem the way to go, and i'll improve the wiring too at the same time.
Nope I'm running Polk EX3650 Components which are 6.5".
Dimensions and specs here
Those drivers have literally about 3-4mm clearance each side on my car.
They are quite old though and Mag technology has moved on a bit now.
Dimensions and specs here
Those drivers have literally about 3-4mm clearance each side on my car.
They are quite old though and Mag technology has moved on a bit now.
Further aside Dean, what problem are you wanting to solve with 8" speakers? I think you're making things more difficult on yourself if you go that route because of the hassle in installation. If you want more volume, sensitive speakers is what you need and if you want more bass, you could do a lot worse than Carl B's approach of extra woofers in the helmet hole or a sub if that floats your boat. I'm getting the amps fitted in the near future, you're welcome to a listen if it will help you decide which route you want to go.
Steve.
Steve.
What DOES really make a difference to the sound quality is the addition of some tweeters in the front, and sub-bass - possibly in the helmet hole.
Even very small tweeters make a surprising difference, as long as you mount them so they're facing you - i.e. not firing into your leg. Our ears use the top end to determine direction, so you get better stereo separation and clarity.
Then when you install bass, with a separate amplifier, crossed-over so the front main speakers only get frequencies above, say, 120Hz, the fronts sound better too.
If you have a 'real' amplifier you don't need much power; Mine is 4 x 40w - but REAL 40 watts RMS not 'fake' peak power that some amps claim. Two channels of the amp run the fronts, the other two channels are bridged and run the bass. The rear speakers are direct from the head unit, as they don't really do much.
I've got an 8" sub in the helmet hole (recessed towards the back of it), tweeters in the doors above the door button, and replaced door speakers. All are Focal. A French make, very good. They make decent fronts with slimmer magnets which fit lovely.
The amp is mounted in the boot, in the recess below the fusebox, powered directly from the +ve feed in the fusebox.
All works well, didn't cost the earth and was quite easy to do.
I'll post pics if anyone's interested.
A.
Even very small tweeters make a surprising difference, as long as you mount them so they're facing you - i.e. not firing into your leg. Our ears use the top end to determine direction, so you get better stereo separation and clarity.
Then when you install bass, with a separate amplifier, crossed-over so the front main speakers only get frequencies above, say, 120Hz, the fronts sound better too.
If you have a 'real' amplifier you don't need much power; Mine is 4 x 40w - but REAL 40 watts RMS not 'fake' peak power that some amps claim. Two channels of the amp run the fronts, the other two channels are bridged and run the bass. The rear speakers are direct from the head unit, as they don't really do much.
I've got an 8" sub in the helmet hole (recessed towards the back of it), tweeters in the doors above the door button, and replaced door speakers. All are Focal. A French make, very good. They make decent fronts with slimmer magnets which fit lovely.
The amp is mounted in the boot, in the recess below the fusebox, powered directly from the +ve feed in the fusebox.
All works well, didn't cost the earth and was quite easy to do.
I'll post pics if anyone's interested.
A.
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